I HAVE A 2007 TOYOTA CAMRY WITH 20000 MILES ON IT. I GOT INTO AN ACCIDENT A FEW MONTHS AGO. I CRASHED INTO A CURB WITH MY RIGHT PASSENGER SIDE RIM. BECAUSE OF THIS MY RIGHT FRONT BALL JOINT AND LOWER CONTROL ARM WERE BENT. THE RIM SUFFERED COSMETIC DAMAGE BUT I ORDERED A NEW ONE. I REPLACED THE PARTS AND GOT A WHEEL ALLIGMENT AND BALANCE. ONCE I GOT ON THE HIGHWAY I NOTICED THAT MY VEHICLE WOULD SWERVE TO THE LEFT. I LET THE STEERING WHEEL GO AND NOTICED THAT IT SLIGHTLY TURNED TO THE LEFT. I ALSO EXPERIENCED A VIBRATION ON THE STEERING WHEEL AND REST OF THE CAR AS I BRAKED AT SPEED OF 60- 65 MPH. I ALSO NOTICED THAT AT HIGH TRAFFIC TIMES IN STOP AND GO SITUATIONS MY VEHICLE WOULD TURN COMPLETELY TO THE LEFT AS I WOULD LET THE STEERING WHEEL GO. I TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER AND THEY RECOMMENDED ANOTHER ALLIGNMENT, BALANCE AND ROTOR REPLACEMENT. I ALLIGNED THE VEHICLE AND BALANCE THE TIRES, I DID NOT REPLACE THE ROTORS. NOTHING CHANGED. THE PROBLEM IS STILL THERE. I AM THINKING OF REPLACING THE ROTORS SOON TO SEE IF IT CORRECTS THE VIBRATION. I AM WONDERING IF THERE IS ANOTHER PART IN THE FRONT END THAT MIGHT OF GOTTEN DAMAGED THAT COULD CAUSE THE VEHICLE TO TURN LEFT. I NEED HELP. WHAT DO YOU THINK I SHOULD DO. I

Rotor thickness variation is a condition that can be imagined as the two sides of the rotor not being parrallel to each other. This can be caused by a "crushing" of the rotor by the brakes. It can be caused by uneven wear. Or it simply could have developed over time from a combination of forces. This problem is normally felt in the brake pedal by it pushing back at you with a rythm consistent with the current wheel speed. Rotor run-out is often caused by debris (rust) being caught between the new rotor and the old wheel hub, or by improperlly torquing the wheels, which can bend the hub, rotor and wheel. There is always a chance that excessive heat build up from heavy braking without sufficient time for the system components to cool is playing a role as well. This by the way is the most common cause for the report that we often see where a new car keeps having to get the rotors machined. It's not the cars fault, it is how the driver is using the brakes in heavy traffic! We also have rotor delamination, or rusting if you will. This causes a combination of runout and thickness variation issues. Typically rotor thickness variation of .002" is plenty to feel when driving. Otherwise you would have to use a dial indicator, and mark the high and low points on both sides of the rotor to see it. Rotor runout's of .005 or less will normally give no real signs they are present as the calipers of today have sufficient movement built into the system to "follow" the rotor. Between .005, and about .009 you will often feel the pulsation, but quite often you will hear the brake pads "saw" on the caliper supports as they get pushed back and forth. This "saw" is the grunting sound you get on a light brake pedal application as the car moves slowly such as 15mph or less. As I alluded to in the beginning of this response, a good technician does not even need to put a dial indicator on a car where the problem is rotor thickness variation. He/she will feel that right from the drivers seat. However, the technician DOES need to use a dial indicator, and measure wheel runout, then remove the wheel and (for most cars) put the lugnuts back on and measure rotor runout, then measure the front hub runout so that this problem is repaired the first time. Sadly this is one of the times where the good technician that does the job correctly needs to be paid to do so, yet the allure of the "free" brake inspection often prevents them from getting good at it because many are rewarded for being fast and getting the work in and out and as "cheap as possible" which in some occasions turns around and bites them for the effort. For the record, don't do "free" brake inspections, but I fix them.

I have this same problem with my Avalon. They replaced an O2 sensor and it ran fine for about 3 months. Now it is doing it again. I'm taking it in tomorrow. I understand that there are 2 O2 sensors. I'll post when I get my car back. Its kind of scary huh?

Thanks for the suggestion jemdandy. Now could you advise me which mount or mounts would control the output torque? Thanks a lot. Bucky