My last car was white, and bird droppings would leave pink stains on the car, that I couldnt scrub off. I found that if I left it parked in the drive, rather than the carport on a rainy day, that the rain, removed the stains.

Hi, my Wolf range top was scratched when my hood was installed by my GC. They're not long scratches. I've got two or three very fine ones and two spots with deeper scratches that you can feel with your fingertip. I'm bummed out as the kitchen isn't even finished yet. Maybe those scratches would have come with time anyway, but I didn't make them, so it bugs me. I'd like to try to remove them and while searching the net saw Scratch-B-Gone. Anyone used it? If so, what was your experience? Anyone tried anything else they could recommend?

We used to have a jeweler in the family by marriage, and he's long gone, but I regularly pumped him for info, and when he was in our squad, he had a ring rhodium plated for me. Here is my understanding: A rhodium coating is a very, very thin layer of material that is bonded to the white gold by an electric plating process. For optimal adhesion, the initial plating requires the white gold material to be prepared in a certain way; cleaning, sanding, etc., but with normal wear, replating typically involves smoothing out only the rhodium coating removing scratches, etc., then recoating it in the same manner as it was originally done (electroplating), so no gold loss. I have been told there is no degradation of the actual gold material, just the plating layer is polished, scratches removed, etc., then, IIRC, washed in distilled water and alcohol, zapped with the electroplater to add the material (zapped isn't meant to be a technical term, haha), dried, cleaned and you're good to go. I have no idea what the definition of "normal wear" is, but if you have gouges in your ring, that isn't normal wear, surface scratches, though, are normal wear, and are likely just in the rhodium layer. I also agree with arkansas girl, never, ever trust a chain mall jewelry store, if you want advice on any jewelry, go to the best independent, locally owned store in your area, ideally run or staffed with actual gemologists, and ask them for their advice, they are often free with it (the better jewelry stores consider their role as a steward of the jewelry art(s), and in my experience, most truly want the best for their clients and their pieces), but if not, go to the second best one and ask them.

Old English furniture polish (which this is) lists this product as an oil. It is possible/probable that you can leave it alone and the oil will eventually disappear with normal cleaning methods (hardwood floor cleaner such as Bona, Loba, Polywhey Cleaner, etc). Even a 'drop of dawn' soap in 1 gallon of water would do it. As mentioned above, a bit of bleach (5% solution on wood is about as exciting as you want to get) *might do it. If I'm correct and this is a temporary 'oil' then a mild degreaser (such as Windex original) can get rid of this stuff. I would be VERY cautious when using ANYTHING other than a wood floor cleaner. Personally I would dampen a clean cloth with the Windex and then LIGHTLY DAB at a bit of the dark colour. I would check the clean cloth to see if there is any 'old english' that is coming up. If it is, I would continue to be very gentle with the removal. And for the record, these 'oil' based products can cause damage to wood floors to the point where they may not be refinished in the future. That would be a TERRIBLE upset to someone who just wanted to make their floors look 'a little better'. You currently have a CLEAR finish over the wood. To get rid of the LOOK of nasty scratches (from dragging things across the floor), you can work with a FINISH pen. Yep. Home Depot, etc carries many versions of Finish pens. These are pen-like containers filled with URETHANE. You use them like a stain-pen...except there is zero colour. All you have to do is match the gloss level of your floor and voila you have a 'cure' for damaged finish. And the good thing about finish-pens is: they do NOT damage the wood nor cause any issues with future refnishing. Anything 'oil' (ahem...Murphy's Oil Soap, oil soap of any kind, 'eco' cleaners of any kind, etc, etc, etc) can and will contaminate the WOOD underneath to the point that future refinishing *could be made impossible.