I Need help to replace the deck belt and the friction drive rubber ring? where to buy the rubber ring for the drive? it has cracks, worn out. I there any good technique to do? My RER Snapper is a 33 Hivac model, also the deck is so low how do i raise the deck for a higher cut? held by 2 cables. My grass is high now any ideas is very much appreciated. Thank you

Does the free wheeling (bypass) valve operate smoothly in & out when you perform the purge, or if you are doing it to roll the tractor by hand? If the bypass valve does not move freely, and "click" into its proper detent positions.......it could be still bypassing a small volume of oil. As to "worn gears" being the source of noise AND ALSO being related to poor performance: Highly unlikely. The gears in this unit are the few that are required for just ONE reduction ratio between the drive motor and the differential section of the unit, and the differential gears themselves. The final reduction gearing would only be noisy during periods where the tractor ground speed was pretty fast and the pitch of the noise would change with any increase or decrease of ground speed. The differential gears themselves DO NOT have any relative motion to each other EXCEPT when executing corners (turning tractor to left or right) or when one wheel is spinning due to a loss of traction. At all other times the differential gears may as well be welded together as they remain stationary relative to each other. I suggest you might want to completely disassemble all the brake and friction pack parts for inspection, cleaning and lubing (where needed). Because Hydro Gear does list brake adjustment disorder as a possible cause of noise and poor performance, I am inclined to think that there may still be something about that friction pack and the brake caliper/pucks that may be at the root of the problem. If you put the trans into free wheel mode, are you able to roll the tractor at all by hand? If not....that may be confirmation of a dragging brake. If you undertake the disassembly of the brake and friction pack, be sure you take plenty of photos as you take it apart so you will know without question where each part came from and how it was oriented. Don't rely on the other manuals for that, they can sometimes be vague, but your own photos will be clear.

Rotor spec for your car is 1.102 nominal, 1.024 minimum thickness. That means when machining my preference is to not go closer than .030 of the discard or 1.054 for the unofficial minimum machining thickness. Rotors of course can be machined off the car and have been for decades. However the preferred method for your car is to machine them on the car. That provides automatic correction for any wheel hub run-out. That's one of the reasons they are fastened to the hub with those two screws. The other reason of course is so that during initial assembly they don't fall off on the assembly line before the calipers are installed. But when you need to remove them, how does a tech do it? I have two methods. One is an impact screwdriver that operates by inertia. There are spiral groves in between the inner and outer portions of the tool, and when you hit it with a hammer and force it to collapse, the inertia of the outer half not wanting to start turning, forces the inner section to try t turn and tighten or loosen a screw depending on the tools setting. Almost every motorcyle tech will be familliar with this tool, they have existed since the 60's at the least. In fact mine is probably the oldest tool in my tool box, having purchased it in the early 70's. But it does not always work, sometimes the screws are simply too tight, and I break the screwdriver bit pretty often. That forces me to use the second method, which ruins the screw. I take a large center punch, and start by making a deep pin hole into the edge of the screw, without hitting the rotor. Once the hole is there, I move the punch to an angle to force the screw to turn by driving it with the punch and hammer. With practice this is really simple and has never failed to remove one of those screws. On a few occasions I have even been able to re-use them. Lastly, 1 1/16" translates to approximately 1.060 (about .030 for 1/32) IMO you would not have been able to machine those rotors successfully, as they would be getting too thin to allow for enough material to deal with the heat generated by braking. Plus six years old on a vented rotor, the rust that builds up in the middle cooling vanes prevents the rotor from cooling efficiently. Plus, the same rusting makes the rotor structurally weaker and prone to "crushing" which is one of the primary causes of rotor thickness variation. All those things together make it unadviseable to have not replaced these rotors when doing the brakes. At the same time we haven't talked about how good the calipers really are, and the caliper slides, how free are they? What about the rear brakes, did you check them? The parking brake assembly? How is the fluid, should it have been flushed? There is so much more to replacing brakes, than just simply slamming a set of pads. That's why you will never see my quote things like the "$99.00 brakes, additional work extra routine".

First, a brake caliper is a device that squeezes the pads from the sides against the rotor. If you think of a "vernier caliper" where you are measuring the thickness of an object from the sides, you get the picture of a motion that the brake caliper reproduces, hydraulicly. Second, brake calipers do seize and often times parts are available to rebuild them, as well as there are replacement calipers, both new and remanufactured. It comes down to considerations of cost, availability, and a fair profit for the shop doing the work, while limiting potential warranty exposure. As some others have mentioned the parking brake is often part of the rear brake calipers on many cars, and without seeing one, I would expect this is the case on the Mazda. IMO the rear calipers that incorporate the parking brake have been a weak link, and very troublesome poprtion of the brake system on four wheel disc. The movement to systems that use small brake shoes that fit inside the rotors in the rear have been a major improvement, except for the fact that we are seeing these rear shoes delaminate in high road salt areas, but thats a different story. The addition of the parking brake to the rear caliper makes it more difficult to repair in the feild. Plus no regular shop is going to have an acid bath that will allow them to completely remove all of the rust and scale that builds up in the caliper slides. So a tech has to improvise the routine and tools that he/she will use to service that portion of the caliper. Trust me, it's not easy in many circumstances and can take a considerable amount of time and not always produce a satisfactory, if not durable result. So given that single point, a shop/tech has to ask why even bother spending the time attempting a difficult task, where the outcome is not assured? Plus we have not even disscussed the actual servicing of the piston and the e-brake components in the caliper! Combine that with the fact that the "cheaper, faster, etc. attitude also applies to how many shops try to hire techs and you will see this becomes even more complicated. "It takes less talent, and less time to replace a component than it does to remove a component, rebuild it, and reinstall it" Think about that, less time means of course more time to do more work, as in other cars. Less talent means a less expensive work force. That actually means an over all a cheaper cost of doing business, and to a degree a cheaper form of auto service to the consumer. But this comes at a trade-off to some other consumers who might be better served on an individual basis. Jason, in your position, where you think having the tech repair the caliper would be cheaper for your MIL you are partially correct. But, for a shop to routinely do that level of a repair, they would have to hire a more expensive tech, who quite often would be doing more difficult work, which means he/she would turn fewer labor hours a week. The shop would in fact have to use a much higher labor rate and the net result ultimately would be you would get the caliper rebuilt onsite, but the end cost to your MIL, might be the same, if not higher than the bill as it's presently being quoted! By repairing the caliper, the shop wont be making as large of a profit on the parts either, yet the profit margin per hour that the shop needs must be met or the shop will fail as a business. If this all seems like doubletalk, I'm not suprised. But the bottom line is, the shop is making the correct call by replacing the calipers instead of repairing them. There are techs out there that can and do rebuild calipers on a fairly regular basis. (Me) It's actually expensive to do it that way in most cases, so it's done more out of necessity. Frankly having looked at this many times and quoting replacing calipers VS repairing them, I can actually make more money repairing them dollar wise for a single job. But since we can normally replace them in a fraction of the time for slightly less gross profit, and have all that extra time to do a different car. It becomes a wise choice that ends up costing my customers less in the long run to routinely replace instead of repair calipers.