You don't say if the compressor is at a static equalized state or running. Equalized approx. 110-120 lbs. depends on the ambiant temp. Running with all windows closed and the fan on high after the inside temp. is at 70F. approx. 28-35 F. High side approx. 175- 300. again depending on the ambiant temp. During the test there is supposed to be a high speed fan infront of the condenser simulating highway travel. That is a very hard question to answer because ALL simulations are different. A bad or leaking compressor valve will change all pressures. You just kind of have to " know ". NO compressor or pressures will be the same in any vehical. The pressures you see in the book are referance and starting points only. If i charge an A.C. system in the winter ( home AC ) the low side will be about 5-10 lbs. In the summer it will go up to 55-65 bls. by itself where it should be if charged properly. Hope that helps. Good luck.

Hello, Just joined the site & at first I thought I found a site where MOST of the members that do the MAJORITY of posting where nice,courtious, and most of all KNOWELDGEABLE, yet after reading these responses I've come to the conclusion that it's just another ROMPER ROOM with a few MAIN CHILDREN that think they know it all. Below are the postings that I'm referring to : (1) "" Posted by chad_said (My Page) on Sat, Aug 25, 07 at 10:43 Well, that was a nice bit of ego stroking, but unfortunately talk of Ford flatheads and rebuildable spark plugs has absolutely no relevance to the OP's problem. As for me being a "parts thrower", I suggested a simple visual inspection of a likely problem that takes less than one minute. No parts involved. Perhaps your reading comprehension needs work as well. "" To Child # 1--AKA chad_said: You need help. Your response was at best, the response I'd expect to hear from a rookie hot-shot, (so they think), Engine designer. Unfortunately, I deal with your kind ALL DAY LONG & after 38 Yrs. in the Design phase of Automobile building I've found that when given enough rope...You'll hang yourself. This next guy (child #2) cought my attention because he ACTUALLY BELIVES everything He's saying & I hope to GOD that He gets out of the Automotive repair Business, (if he really is even in the FIeld), and pursues a career that's commensurate to his qualifications, like Toilet Bowl Cleaning. Here is THAT Childs Post.... "" Posted by john_g (My Page) on Sun, Aug 26, 07 at 8:30 Easiest first, a Roll Cab is of course a tool box. Most technicians today have so much invested in their hand tools, that the biggest box at Sears would be terribly inadequate to protect them. If you look at the biggest box Sears sells, you would need three of them for my tool collection, and there would be items that still would not fit. My MATCO Rolling Tool Cabinet (Roll Cab) holds 85% of my things and if you think of it as a safe instead of just a tool box then you are looking at it the right way. In the case of professional theives my tools are still at risk, but if the local crack head tries to get them the most likely result will be them safely in the box, or a senario somewhat similar to a giant rat trap. Back to the OP. Information as given here is exactly enough for me to drive the car and start testing for what is wrong with it. While some things can be thought of as secondary needs, the OP's description leaves sufficient room to expect this problem is not just one thing wrong. Stalling at stops can be caused by a loss of fuel, spark, airflow, or a combination of such. The sluggishness he alludes to might be related to the stall, and yet it might not be. This single detail "could" be related to a fuel supply issue, but frankly there are some details that I would expect to see from the poster, that have not been disclosed yet. If he was here at my shop I would be asking some specific questions to attempt to get a clearer picture of these events. Things like weather conditions, accessory loads, vehicle drive time, details such as if highway driving or intown appear to influence the symptom. One such detail would be if it acts up in a specific area (time) from when first driven, or if mulitple restarts are required before the trouble occurs, or if in fact multiple restarts would make it not occur. These details are so important to getting the car in and fixed the first time that I cannot stress it enough. Presently there is a 2000 Chevrolet Blazer right beside me that got towed in, for a no start. If jumped it would run for a short period of time, and then stall back out. Simple fix right? The alternator was definately bad. However pulling it in the door I noticed it had very poor throttle response. After charging the battery, before replacing the alternator I tested just a little further, this thing is starving for fuel big time. I have to ask myself, why didn't the owner tell me about that? Does she think that the way this was running is only because of the alternator problem? Could she be one of the people I have encountered in the past that will act like this fuel problem was never there before the alternator failed, so it must be something that I caused and try to get it for free? There is no subtitute for proper training, tools, equipment, people, and information. It takes all of them to fix cars correctly. People can guess all they want, and like any guess occasionally they will be correct. A car I worked on recently came in with two seperate problems that caused identical symptoms. The first of the two problems was simple, secondary ignition insulation failure allowing the spark to jump to ground causing a missfire. The second problem was no so simple. A primary computer input was glitching and causing the computer to cut the injector pulse to 1/3rd of what was required to fire a cylinder. The "feel" was identical to an ignition missfire. To satisfy the customer, both of those problems had to be diagnosed and repaired. Otherwise "It still would have been doing the same thing". Oh and I almost forgot this LAUGHABLE description of his " ROLLCAB" Posted by john_g (My Page) on Sun, Aug 26, 07 at 12:08 FWIW my "Tool Box" measures 48ft x 40ft x 14ft. LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL WHAT Planet is THIS guy living on ? A FORTY EIGHT x FORTY x FOURTEEN (FOOT) "rollcab" ? Like I said earlier, another ROMPER ROOM and THESE two are probably in the corner more than anyone else. Good Day to all of the REAL posters out there.

I looked at the same faucets and got the Whitehaus Metrohaus pulldown that looks a lot like the Vinnata. For me, it was the slightly shorter, slightly deeper dimensions -- and it looked pretty good in a photo posted by someone here who had it already. I love it. My neighbors got the Vinnata and have splashing, but their sink is also not as deep.

Bert , the start up Proceedure for any Echo Product will entail as I said , 89 octane fuel with a 50:1 oil mix . I own 2 Echo chainsaws currently and Trimmer . Have run in all Echo products with Echo Oil , usually 1-3 tanks . It is important initially to vary the throttle setting , from low , to high rpm range to allow the rings and cylinder to seat in . Varying the rpm range allows the cylinder and pistion to expand and shrink through various heat cycles , which is important to enable a long life cycle for the engine . If you can find non ethanol fuel use it 1st , otherwise max 10% e fuel is acceptable . Do not use 15 % or 85% grades since they will cause severe engine damage to these small engines . As I stated previously Premium Grade fuel is not recommended for these engines . The Higher Octance is used for peak performance in higher compression applications such as my Competition Hot Saws that are designed to operate at much higher temperatures and pressures . Again if you use small batch containers within 60 days than 10% e fuel will pose no significant problems . However storing fuel in your engine or container longer can cause fuel gelling and corrosion issues within the carb and engine . Therefore I usually recommend Seafoam fuel treatment during routine fuel usage or Startron Fuel Stabilizer treatment for extended storage of efuel up to 2 yrs . Both are available at local Wal-Mart or Auto Supply Outlets . Further within Oil usage i have for 10 yr utilized Amsoi l Sabre Premium Synthetic Grade Oil in all my 2stroke engines , It is rated for usage from 50:1 to 100:1 ratios , I have used it extensively within my Pioneer 80 c.c & Redmax 65cc hotsaws @ 100:1 with no carbon issues or lublicity failures . Best Oil on the Market Period ! Enjoy your new high quality trimmer !