Here is my take... Since the existing is flat, it tells me that the existing was installed at the regions average MC, or gaps were left in it during the installation if it took place in the low humidity season. Acclimating a floor in a low humidity season, and installing it tight, is just as bad as no acclimation at all. There is a documented average regional moisture content for wood. Each species of wood has what is called a shrink & swell coefficient. It is a number so you can do the calculations to see exactly what the wood is going to do given a rise or loss of moisture content. If the wood is acclimated to the heating season or season of low humidity, gaps need to left in the field of the installation, so when the humidity does rise, the wood doesn't compress the edges, in a cupped appearance and eventually buckle if it is excessive pressure. Proper acclimation isn't just sitting the wood in a room. Actually far from it. I'd say improper acclimation issues, brought on the condition your seeing. Cupping from a wet humid basement or crawl space, will show up faster then 5 months. Take all that with a grain of salt... I'm sitting here, and not there with my moisture meters.

Thank you all for your responses. I have lived in my townhouse for over 20 years and I can say unequivically that the criginal construction was crap. I am always finding things that don't meet spec everytime I do a reno. The trades in Victoria don't have a great reputation. Overpriced and underskilled in a lot of cases and it's hard to find a good one. This guy was supposed to know what he was doing. Had been doing it for 15 years. Showed me photos and gave references. I know better than to pick the cheapest price so I thought I was doing everthing right with this reno. glennsft: No moisture test except for tenting was done. It was done in June 08 and showed no moisture accumulation. Lorre - I know the install is defective. My floorguy and his company are long gone so there is no way for me to even ask for a repair, not that I would let him touch anything in my house again. I can't afford to re-do the whole floor Floorguy: as Victoria is right on the water, the RH tends to be high. This sudden spike occured after a long hot summer. I have a number of question though, 1. Why didn't the floor lift during last winter right after it was laid? I was using baseboard heat and the house definitely felt damp Could it have been because the change was gradual and the floor had time to acclimate? 2. As the RH begins to normalize for winter, can I expect the lifted boards to settle? 3. Will using the propane fireplace speed up the drying process and help the floor to settle back down so it can be re-glued? 4. As there are four boards involved, might it be a good idea to take 1 up and use that space to access and fill the other voids with the repair kit glue then put a new piece in the space? 5. How wide should the gaps around the floor be? The mfg instructions say .5 in and it looks like that is already the case after removing the wall board. Should I widen them? Thanks again for all your help Bye for now VIGirl

It was not PebbleTech or PebbleSheen. I went back to my original contracts which specified "Pebble finish". A Gemstone brand catalog had been used to pick colors. On calling Gemstone, I find there are no licensed distributors in my area and the plasterer used his own mix of pebble finish or a generic, if you will. Anyone able to comment on whom burden of proof lies in warranty situation? I thought whole point of warranty was that it's covered unless they can show you did something bad...

I just leaned out the door to measure the snow, we have 5 inches here in Steele, AL. This pic I took before dark yesterday. We had 3 inches then. Stay safe everyone. Joyce