The puck is not visible in the image. The puck is located behind the caliper and in front of the brake disc. You will see the puck after you remove the caliper. Yes, it seems odd indeed. I have mused over this specific situation and I conclude that the unique complaint can only be due to a couple of circumstances. The first one I have already outlined previously in your other thread. The second scenario would be that the entire frame of the tractor is being reshaped during turns because of looseness in frame rivets, or bolts, or screws.......as the case may be. This hypothetical frame reshaping could probably conspire to LENGTHEN the effective brake rod travel when making a left turn (less brake power)......and SHORTEN the effective brake rod travel when making right turns (more brake power). Because there is a "fine line" difference between NO BRAKES and GOOD BRAKES on this mechanical type of disc brake anyhow, just a little difference in the effective length of the brake rod would have a profound overall effect on the stopping power. Study carefully how the frame is put together. Look closely for signs of dry, powdery rust around all the bolts (or whatever is used) that hold the frame together. You might need to wipe around the bolt heads with a clean dry paper towel and then look at the towel to determine if there is any rust (which implies a loose fit condition).

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I checked the belts and the drive belt had come off of the pulley. I put it back in place and she runs like a dream. Thanks agan!!

I'm just a shade tree mechanic. And this is just a guess. You say you have 4 lines running to the MC, one for each wheel. I'm assuming that means this MC has 4 independent ports. In that case, after you bleed one (or more) of the wheels, that last one can't be bled properly. The back pressure of the other independent ports are keeping the brake pedal from pumping pressure into that last line. In a case like that I would recommend one of those vacuum bleeding tools to remove all the air from the last line. I have never seen a MC with 4 independent ports. Pooh Bear

Firstly, there's not much engine braking on automatics. Secondly, you are far more likely to lose control on a RWD car with braking on a slippery surface beacuse the back axle swings around (try braking with only the back brake on a motorcycle on a wet road). An upshift to prevent engine braking would be to meet emission standards because it reduces the vacuum pressure in the inlet manifold. An automatic never runs in idle unless you put it there. And downshifting when you floor the throttle has always been standard on all automatics. I think the overheating would be because of the AWD problems, problems with synchronising the rear and front drivetrains ? Landrovers with viscous diffs used to chew up tyres.