Hi Leo. I looked at the Simplicity manuals http://www.simplicitymfg.com/document/index.cfm?doc=TP_400_1158_02_LW_S_LO.pdf and I found a couple of springs, but the search function didn't find the 1727149SM number you posted. I know to ignore the SM, so that isn't the problem. In looking at the transmission drive group, it says, "hook long end of spring onto top hole of pivot arm assembly and short end into hole in frame". In the Engine and Frame Group, it says, "hook top end of spring over clutch rod assembly between depressions and the other end into slot on frame." I did find one more spring in the Engine and frame group: "Hook top end of spring in the top hole of the idler arm (see ref number 11) and the other end into top hole of the pivot arm assembly. (ref number 25 of traction and drive group.) Now then, I'm aware that some part numbers can be superseded by another part number, so there may be some confusion there too. I do not have any experience with snow blowers as we just don't get that much snow where I live. But, I've learned how to decipher some of the Simplicity manuals because I own one of their garden tractors. If you could give us a better idea of the area you're looking for, I might be able to locate it in the Simplicity manual. Otherwise, look in the areas described, and hope like the dickens you can find the other end of the broken spring in the hole/slot, or even a bit of a wear mark like paint missing. Sometimes those subtle clues can tell you a lot. If you could post a photo of the spring and the area it came from, that would also be a great help. Good luck and keep us posted. I'm really curious about this one now.

mrsig wrote "JohnG - I didn't mean to offend, but by "some research" I just meant a few searches on the internet for my problem that, in a few cases, turned up the compression clutch as a possible problem." The internet is a wonderfull thing in the way it brings information to our fingertips. But it also can bring poor or incomplete information. Plus decent information can be missapplied by someone that is not properlly trained to use it, internet based or not. Mrsig wrote "I did say "some" research though, which should indicate that it wasn't a "thorough/complete" research." Now if an auto tech approached his/her job that way would you be happy with the effort to that point? mrsig wrote. "FWIW, my experience with A/C going "bad" has resulted in both times with the mechanics wanting to replace, if not the whole system (bad choice of words on my part), a significant part of the system (compressor)...without looking elsewhere for a proper diagnosis." Daignostics is usually the hardest part of auto repair, and especially something like refrigeration (AC). Here in Pa. our AC season is really about 4 months long, with it really hitting hard in June and July, then the rest of the year we may not use that equipment, training, or skills at all. That does not make a missdiagnosis any less wrong, it's just the way it is, and few people would do better in their own jobs with a situation like that. Now there are people in the field that still excel with those repairs even under those circumstances. mrsig wrote. "It was a shame that shopping around for different mechanics changed the source of the problem, the repair solution, and the significant $$ of work performed." Ok so two times you had AC trouble, and the first diagnosis was wrong. So you took it somewhere else and they got it right? My first question is, why are you "shopping around" if you found someone that is capable of diagnosing your AC trouble correctly? (This ties in so well with the question vivian asked about capitolism) People find a shop/tech that can do the work correctly the first time but abandon them for the first discount that comes down the street. Then they only go back to the good shop when the discounter can't do the work, or at least do it correctly. Which BTW we do have to qualify, your statement about two AC repairs is incomplete. If the AC problem was the compressor was leaking, and someone else "fixed" it by putting in sealer, then the debate is not over in reguards to the problem being fixed or not correctly. While with limited knowledge a consumer may be happier with the sealer for their solution the correct repair really would have been to replace the compressor, and the tech/shop that was making that recommendation was in fact the one that was right. You see the answer isn't always the fewest dollars from the consumers pocket "today" is the correct one. Adding sealer makes the system unserviceable in the future, period. I have a test kit to identify sealers added to the system and if I detect a sealer, the car gets parked outside and there is nothing I can or will do with it at all. It may have saved you the day it was put in, but it only delayed the real cost, which is more than you want to pay.

What threw me was that you said you had a throttle body injector and most of those were just one step up from a carburetor. But you mentioned an engine module controller. If you have an engine module controller, likely you also have an IACS ( idle air controller). The IACS with the engine controller adjusts the engine idle speed. A serious vacuum leak can upset this system and this may be your problem. Find that leak. Many of the little plastic fittings in the vacuum hoses are restrictors - these have small calibrated holes to restict the amount of air flow. One such restrictor is in the vacuum feed to the heater/AC system that operates the various actuators in the air plenums. Thus, if any of these hoses gets pulled off, the amount of vacuum leak is restricted. Lean out problems may occur if any of these restrictor fittings have been replaced with standard straight-through fittings. Places for vacuum leaks: o Tubing o Fittings o Vacuum bottle (often on or near the fire wall) o Power brake o Vapor recovery system o Any AC vacuum operated parts such as a hot water diverter valve located in the heater hoses. If you can hear the leak, this helps in your search. I am not familar with the system for '88 Chevys. I had an older 1980 Chevrolet Citation, V6 2.8 L and I recall that it had a peculiar vacuum control. The vacuum was limited to say 16 inches. When the vacuum exceeded this value, a valve allowed air to enter the intake which leaned the mixture severely and stopped combustion. This was done to prevent backfiring in the exhaust and blowing off the converter. This came into play mostly when slowing down or comming down a hill with a closed throttle with the engine was in engine braking mode. This never gave any trouble, but could have if it stuck open. Good luck. Let us know what you find.

After you highlight the text, right click you mouse and click on "copy". Then open your word processing program - Word or Notepad or Wordpad or Works, or whatever you use. Once that's open, place the cursor on the blank page and right click the mouse, and click on "Paste". You can then save it as a text or doc. file giving it any name you want. Once you save it you can "select all" and make the font larger to make it easier to read, add notes, make changes, etc, and save it again. I save my recipes on my computer, and only print when I'm going to use it, otherwise I'd have a million recipes lying around the kitchen with no way to find what I want.