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| i have a 74/76 mm wrench. it is new and slips on my quaker state filter. QS techline said the filter body is 75.7 mm. i got a new ac/delco filter and verified in store that it fits with a 76mm wrench. nice tight fit. but i cannot get my QS filter off. i think i put on filter at friends house. what is the deal with QS and making slightly odd size filter housings? are they trying to annoy customers? i have no room to use a strap style wrench. and i don't have one. why but it to remove filter and than use another wrench to put on the ac/delco filter? yay i know, finger tight only. |
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| A strap style filter wrench is the best bet for removing oil filters, but you say you do not have room for such. Some filters are removed from above and many are removed from below. You may need to elevate your vehicle to remove a filter from below. I have a set of ramps I use to raise the auto. I need 2 sizes of strap type filter wrenches to service the vehicles I own. If you are trying to remove a filter by using a cup wrench that fits over the end of the filter, that fir has to be good to remove a tight filter. Different brands of filters may be a little different in size. I'm not sure about this, but some filters may be using metric sizes while others use the inch. Whatever the case, it appears you have an over-tightened filter and its going to require a heafty amount of torque to get it off. In those cases, I have crushed the filter can with a strap wrench before I got it off. Once the can collaspes, I had to change to a smaller wrench. If you are not equipped to handle a stubborn filter, you may have to resort to taking your vehicle to an oil change shop and have them do this oil change. Generic instructions for tightening an oil filter: Spin the filter on until the seal makes contact and offers a little resistrance, and then tighten another 1/2 to 3/4 turns. To aid turns counting, mark the filter before mounting. I often use a ball point pen to mark the end of the filter. I do this with multiple passes of the pen until I get a mark that is easily seen. A piece of tape works too. After the oil has been added to the crankcase, start the engine and check the filter for leaks. If oil seepage is seen, stop the engine and tighten by about 1/8 turn more. Continue this procedure until weepage stops, but do not tighten more than an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn. If the filter still leaks, there may be a problem with the seal or the old seal is there also. |
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| Jamb a screwdriver thru the filther for leverage. If you don't oil the gasket and the seat B4 installing it will stick everytime. |
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| Got it. I used a pipe and piece of rope. Sort of a basin wrench. U turn handle, not swing it. Cup wrench? Ya that's what I have now. I put 76 mm wrench on new QS filter at store and it goes, click, click. Just loose enough to slip. |
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| I have used a "spring" type wrench which is a helical steel strap that wraps the filter and is tied to a solid base for a rachet. It is used from below and doesn't need the side clearance like a typical strap wrench. Another style uses a jaw on a rack and pinion that squeezes the jaw to tighten onto the sides of the filter. Again access is from below and uses a rachet. I have had lousy luck with the fixed style cup wrenches for stuck filters. |
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| i bought a cast alum cup wrench for our new toyota. very nice tight fit.$12 online. the dealer has a cast steel, chrome plated version for $60. also very nice. i went to dealer and compared it too mine. counter guy liked it. said it was a nice alternative to chrome stuff. he said they sell zero each year. not sure what their mechanics use. |
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| Aviation oil filters have a 1 inch hex head at the top of the can. Don't know why automotive ones don't have this. Maybe it's because airplane owners pay A&Ps by the hour for maintenance, instead of flat rate ? |
Here is a link that might be useful: Champion Aviation Oil Filter
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