The 10302 was the 4 cycle Lawn Boy Silver Series mower with a Tec. engine. And yes, it was overfilled. I suppose I'm lucky that the family that donated it to me got tired with it as soon as they did! Anyway, the gearbox has been taken care of...all smooth now. Another problem has cropped up. While cleaning the engine, some of the linkage from governer and underneath the throttle plate fell apart?!!? Does anyone have some detailed pics of the governer arm to carb throttle shaft linkage? The Toro master parts viewer does not show how they fit or link-up. Thanks.

Follow-up: For you gifted mechanics, this writeup is lengthy and you might want to blow off reading this. For the "combustion engine challenged" like me that prefer to DIY these things, it's a long write-up and maybe it'll help someone else out there... I swapped out the new engine for the old, for a non-mechanic like me it actually went fairly easy. I labeled wires as I disconnected them to help with the installation of the new engine. Getting the old engine off and the new engine bolted on with the pulley installed underneath took about 40 minutes. Much faster than I had anticipated, I was pretty shocked at how fast it went. That turned out to be the easy part! Wiring: My old -1134 voltage regulator had two yellow wires in and one red wire out. The new -1159 regulator had two yellow wires in and four wires coming out. I did a bit of reading and couldn't find any decent solutions that applied to my specific situation. So after spending an hour or so researching, I gave up and just swapped the two regulators, putting my old VR on the new engine. That took about two minutes. Starter: The old starter had a solenoid attached to it and a solenoid tab. The new didn't, so I swapped those out too. In order to get the old starter to fit the new engine I had to cut away part of the lower blower housing. The cuts are invisible after the upper blower housing was installed. Even though it was just a couple of quick slices with the grinder, I was slow doing it, it took me about 45 minutes to cut the metal, give the cut edges a shot of primer, then install the old starter. I did have a little difficulty wiring in the new anti-fire solenoid. I found wiring diagrams, etc, and knew what terminal on the ignition switch I was supposed to wire it to, but my ignition switch has a circuit board on the back of it so I had a tough time identifying which terminal was which. I found a reference that it can be on the same circuit as the battery charge light, so I wired it there, and I could hear it "click" as needed. It had power in the ignition "start" and "run" positions. Last thing? My old -1134 has an oil cooler, the -1159 does not. So I swapped that out, adding the oil cooler to the new engine. With all that done, I added oil, cranked it a few times, rechecked the oil, then fired the engine up. It started right up. Ran great at idle but would show signs of fuel starvation when the throttle was increased. Hesitation and a willingness to stall. When I pulled the throttle back to idle it recovered and puttered away just fine. First thing I found was the impulse tube that runs out of the bottom of the fuel pump was not clamped. there were two clamps on the tube, but in the middle. They were never slid down over the nipples. Figuring I had an air leak there, I reset the clamps, then fired up the engine again. No change. The new fuel filter was opaque, I replaced it with a clear from my old engine so I could get a visual on the flow of fuel. Fuel would never pool in the filter. It would pool maybe 1/4" deep max, but once the engine was started it would look just about empty. I could see fuel dribbling into the filter, wetting the filter media, then being siphoned up the media and towards the fuel pump. I checked for a kinked hose, a clogged hose, I swapped out the new fuel pump for the old, I checked all I could check. No change. Finally I went after the anti-fire solenoid. It was "clicking" as needed, but I pulled it anyway. Checked the voltage, it was fine. Checked that it as actuating, which it was, but not being familiar with them I didn't know how far the pin was supposed to travel. So I left it off the carb bowl and in its place I plugged the bottom of the bowl with the bowl screw from the old carb. The fuel filter was full of fuel. The engine fired right up, the filter remained full. Ran it through all rpm setting, no problems. Took the anti-fire solenoid to a JD shop, they bench tested it and said it was bad. Overall, a pretty good learning experience for me. Mongo

I don't believe you understand the significance (function/purpose) of the things going on here. You CANNOT disconnect A1 at any time. In fact, the circuit that is supposed to be powered by the key switch terminal A1.............might not be getting energized by the key switch at all right now (defective key switch). This may get complicated (my explanation), so try to bear with me. The key switch internal contacts that serve terminal A1 must be "hot" in the RUN position AND in the START position. To do this, the rotary part of the switch contact has been given a very long stationary contact strip so A1 circuit does not lose its connection when the key is turned to the START position. BUT! Circuit A1 is not powered ONLY by key switch terminal A1...................Circuit A 1 ALSO receives current directly from the voltage regulator output wire (feed path is through OP3 terminal 30).............but this "secondary" A1 power source DOES NOT come available UNTIL the engine RPM comes up enough to cause the alternator/regulator to make electric current. So here is what I believe might be happening with your tractor now. The key switch has a "dead zone" in the long stationary contact causing a loss of continuity to circuit A1 in the RUN position. But when the key is turned to START.....the rotary contact of A1 in the switch moves to a spot that DOES provide continuity........and so the fuel solenoid is energized and opens. And the engine starts. But, when you let go the key immediately, and it returns to the RUN position, A1 circuit becomes dead again. And because the charging system has not yet produced any "real" current yet............the fuel solenoid closes.....engine dies. Holding the key in START position for long enough to allow the charging system to come online and substitute for a sound A1 circuit from the key switch may be "key" to ciphering how this unusual circumstance is manifesting itself in this case. Testing this (this theory) could be as simple as providing a separate (temporary for testing only) source of power to the fuel solenoid that would eliminate the A1 portion of the electrical system by running a fused jumper wire to the fuel solenoid from a battery positive source (such as the battery + terminal on the starter solenoid). I do not suggest you do any of this unless you actually know how to do real automotive electrical work! Having ever had your hands on Lucas Electric components does not count :^) If the engine starts and does not die as soon as you let go the key with a proper test jumper wire connected to the fuel solenoid............you have cornered the problem.

My father had a few college courses at age 17 before the Depression intervened. Years later he worked with a man who was quite proud of his degree in engineering. Days after my parents moved into a new house, my father was out on the road, selling. My mother was going crazy with mice that had 'moved in' when we did. Mr. Engineer said he knew how to take care of the problem. He provided the mice with some cozy 'tunnels' by running piping here and there across our living room floor. He set mousetraps inside the pipes. Days later my mother was out of patience with stepping over these pipes and re-baiting and re-setting the traps. No mice had been caught. My father came home, peered into a pipe and laughed. There wasn't enough room within the pipe for the mousetrap to spring.