In my new 8 by 14 lean-to GH, I have two open windows into the house with a small window fan circulating air continually. This allows me to not have to vent and waste hot air to the outside as well as help moderate temps. I added one of the small oil filled electric radiators listed above, trying to keep the temps above 55 at night. With the radiator, continual fan and 15 hour a day lights, I was worried how crazy the electric bills would be - could end up with some expensive tomatos. But after the the expense of building the GH and loving growing the plants, I would not have changed a thing. I did turn the thermastat down in my home to help compensate for the added GH. I just got the first electic bill since adding the heater. I used 3KWhours per day less this month than the same month last year. Maybe I should add more lights. :) Carol Here is a link that might be useful: pictures of lean-to greenhouse

Nah, never touched the TPR valve to flush it, I opened up all the hot water faucets in my house. I bought a new one and will install that soon. I dont think the gas valve is bad, but the thermostat could be stuck on. However, I have learned that the thermostat probe is right behind the gas/temperature control so that should of remained dry. I hope its just the TPR valve. I'm also wondering about the main water pressure from the town. Could all this flooding cause really high pressure from the town? Jay

It is much easier to buy a new valve, separate it and install the center part which is damaged. There are 4 screws. Don't slam Spa Parts Plus. They are a wholesaler and are dropping the shipment to their customer. That is a lousy way of doing business. In the future, order from a local guy who can get the same part locally or through a distributor such as SPP. That new valve will not run much. Drain the spa, replace it when there is no water gushing all over the place. No glue required.

Furnace or boiler? Depending on what model, 20 years may be nothing. Replacement with something more efficient depends on a lot of things. How long will you have the house? Assuming boiler/hydro-air, Is there excess capacity in the hydro-air so lower water temperatures can be used for a significant time? How large are the hydro-air units compared to the low end of a new modulating-condensing boiler? If you really want a condensing boiler, propane may price out better because they can be made more efficient, condense more. Combination boilers (instant hot water + heating) tend to be larger and it is difficult to match them to smaller heating loads. (The zone is relevant here more than the whole house.) Compared to oil and propane, electric water heaters may cost you less in the long run. That would solve your leaking indirect tank problem cheaply too. If your boiler is not a modern, cold-start boiler, it will save you a lot in the summer too since you can shut the boiler off. If I were in your shoes, I think that I'd hire a local energy rater to help you pick the low-hanging fruit with respect to saving your coins. You might be best off switching to electric hot water, and keeping the boiler for now while making improvements in the house envelope. In the intervening time, you can think about what to do about heating and hot water. Heat pumps, air sourced, are working in colder and colder weather all the time. Ground-sourced have been there for some time, but are a costly investment. You might be able to keep your boiler and use it for back-up for the next 30 years in that role. Someone has to look at some numbers based on your fuel costs to make any rational decision.