I personally wouldn't trust polycarbonate with the kind of snow load I imagine upstate ny gets -- even if your framing is strong enough it seems the panels themselves would collapse. Haven't tested or even looked it up...but worth checking out. I'd suggest you build with a good slope so your snow slides off, and don't spray insulation under your deck...cuz of runoff. I'd also suggest that you not build this on top of your deck unless you're willing to build it to the same standards you would for an extension to your home....which is a much different undertaking than even building a heated greenhouse to shelter a fairly elaborate aquaponics set up. It seems to my (amateur, layman, lives in California and hasn't seen snow in years...) mind that you'd be much better off building this where you can have total sun exposure and you get some thermal help from the ground. Either way...I've become a huge believer in using chain link fence top rail post to build my GHs with -- stronger than wood, and you don't have to make it a hoop house even though that's what you'll see online -- and you won't have to worry about it blocking your light. Good luck...I'm hella jealous...I badly want to get into aquaponics.

If the carpenter cares about his reputation, then, voila, you've got leverage. There are a number of outlets to let people know about the quality of his work, Angies List being one of them. However, that is the card you must not play until you are sure that he will do nothing to correct the situation or cannot correct it. Your daughter wouldn't have to say a word - the photos will speak volumes! I do think that you need to give him an opportunity to correct the problems. Let him know what you think the problems are - I would start by photographing all the problems with the cabinets and send sending photos to him with a detailed explanation of all the issues and what corrections you expect. (that's why I think calling a "forensic" carpenter would be useful in helping you detail issues that might not be easily seen.) If he really cares about his reputation, he most certainly wouldn't want photos of this shoddy work to get out.

Butternut, I'm thinking more of proportions like this (and yes, I realize yoru window is larger and wider), It would be about as long altogether as you have it now, but the longer part would the "drop" (I don't know what the correct term is, sorry!) before the swag rather than the swag itself. I think it also might look better to hang the roman shade higher, so that it's the same height as the cabinets. Which would give you more light/window AND more fabric. That might be worth playing around with.

I'm worried about the water line going through the cinder block basement wall, being exposed to the exterior temperatures (ie. -20) and then running up into the porch through a hole in the floor (am I getting this right?). I would not do it this way. I would spend the money to run the water line through the INTERIOR of the home. As FAR AWAY from exterior temperatures as you can. You will need to GUT the inside of the porch down to the studs (even to the point where you see the dirt below your feet while balancing on the joists). You can then enclose the raised deck as much as possible and insulate it to R40 or more. You vapour barrier this thing to within an inch of it's life. Stuff every crevice with expanding foam insulation caulking. You then insulate the FLOOR of the porch. Get as much insulation into those joists as possible (someone's getting dirty). Fix ANY weak joists or any water damaged materials as you go (add 30% cost over run just for this...if you don't need it then you don't spend it...but be prepared for the absolute worst case scenario possible = lose the entire porch). Now you install backer board and heating mats on the floor (in-floor radiant heat mats) that are then covered in tile. You will also add a baseboard heater for the space. The two run on low will have no problem keeping the space above freezing...but don't expect a nice warm space to fold laundry. You will also change out windows to the highest level you can afford. The same with the exterior door (go as high-end as you can with as much weather proofing as possible). You will stuff the walls with as much insulation as you can get in there (or better yet you can use the spray on purple stuff used for moisture protection and insulation). You will stuff the ceiling with as much insulation as you can get in there (remember I said down to the studs...no drywall or ceiling left in place). Resurface your space and keep going. And all of this hangs on the one detail no one has asked: Is this porch allowed to be there in the first place? Did anyone (you or the previous owners) ever pull permits to allow this addition in the first place? If not, your project is moot. Best start with the city and see if that porch is allowed to be there. And then check to see if it was ever allowed to be 'enclosed' and then check to see if it is allowed to become a heated indoor living space.