As a follow-up to my original post, this is what I found. Instead of paying $11 for a valve cover gasket, you can buy a Valve Setting Kit (p/n 4282 007 1001) for $9.13. This kit includes the special feeler gauge, a small washer, and the cover gasket. I then proceeded to check/adjust the valve lash using the information provided by others. I was unable to get an initial reading on the gap prior to any adjustment, because it requires a special feeler gauge with a narrow width to fit in the channel shaped rocker arm. I had to turn down on the rocker pivot nuts to bring the gap down to the 0.10mm specification. There are no "locking nuts" to hold the settings. The adjusting nuts are a very tight fit, and should hold the setting without locking nuts. The intake and exhaust valves needed about the same adjustment. I replaced the cover gasket even though the original one looked OK. When I mentioned this to my dealer, he said they usually don't have to replace them. After re-assembly, it started right up and seemed to have more torque when I accelerated the engine. I thought this must be my imagination, but my dealer said they found the same thing. Their thought was that even though the gap change was small, it affects the valve timing enough to make a noticeable difference. I am only passing on my experience FYI. I cannot verify the dealers comment about the change I made in valve lash changed the timing enough to make the difference I experienced. This was my one and only experience in setting the valve lash on my BR600. Perhaps someone with more experience can comment on their observations. Charles Ranheim

Consider putting in a shutoff valve with one of these two configurations that will allow you to have box above the counter:

Thanks a lot, appreciate the feedback. just had someone out a few minutes ago who said i should reroute the line to avoid risk of leaks in future (due to existing elbows and multiple connections that would be under new concrete). This is a concrete extension to our existing driveway. he recommended continuing the main pipe coming out of existing driveway straight across under the new area to be poured (currently it makes a few turns, and goes through valve, etc.). Although it's $1500+ to lessen the risk of leaks.

Picture?