Sea Foam has direction on can for crankcase cleaning it work for me several times to free stuck oil wiper rings. Diesel fuel has cleaner action in crankcase at 1/4 volume of oil in crankcase. Run engine to burn one tank fuel are gas drain oil refill fresh oil it be clean even may have trouble seeing oil on dipstick so clean. This will not damage engine under normal load and can be run several different times on tank fuel.

I am guessing they are talking about burner orifice replacements. They sometimes call these spuds, the same things you replace when you switch from LP to natural gas and vice versa. At higher altitudes the amount of available O2 for combustion is less. So if you keep the same amount of fuel flowing with lesser Oxygen, the result is a "rich" mixture, the characteristics of which are a cooler flame and incomplete burning of the fuel. If this is the case you will see a lot of yellow orange in the burners and possibly soot on the bottom of your pans. If you experience this, you will need to get the higher altitude orifices. Your local gas company should be able to answer any questions for you. Some places they will actually come out and do the swap for you and adjust the shutters, but you will have to determine if this service is offered where you live. The spuds should not be expensive. All they normally are are threaded plugs with a precisely drilled hole of a given size. Of course, with Lacanche, there is no telling. The French may make them out of Platinum and foie gras. But normally they should run for a couple of bucks apiece. You will need one per burner plus the oven. If the broiler has a separate burner possibly one there too. Lacanche will probably sell them to you as a kit.

When a shop posts a help request similar to what is above, the normal reply is to tell them to substitute a known good technician. VBG... Test this and change that is not how to diagnose and repair a problem like this, well, by now you probably realize that because it simply doesn't work. Now sure there are times that this method does work, and occasionally you don't even spend a fortune doing it. But as a pro, you'd fail so often you would not last as a technician. A "noid" light is not an accurate test of the systems ability to turn the injectors on. The injectors initially start to draw current at such a level that if they were allowed to stay turned on long enough they would each draw twenty amps+ of current. To prevent overheating the injectors the computer uses what is called a peak and hold system. How it works is one transistor (also referred to as a "driver") turns on and starts to open the injector. Once a sufficient current flow is reached, a second transistor turns on that has a resistor in series with it, the first transistor turns off and that limits the current flow to around 1.8 amps. The "peak" part of the voltage waveform causes the injector to open, and the hold portion allows the injector to remain open long enough to dispense the right amount of fuel. A noid light will flash with as little as 1ma, or .001 amps. This type of testing has tricked just about everyone who relies on it at least once. The right way is to measure the current flow with a low amps probe an an oscilloscope. You can also use the scope to monitor the ground side of the injector to watch for both drivers signatures, and their inductive kick on turn off which is an indicator of the strength of the magnetic field that was created when the computer turned the injector on. Now just because current is flowing that does not mean that the injectors physically opened, nor does having fuel pressure guarantee there is fuel at the injectors under sufficient pressure to be injected into the engine. There are screens on the injectors themselves that serve as a last defense filters, as well as there is usually an inlet screen to the throttle body just inside of the fuel inlet nut. Once you prove that electrically the injectors should be opening, by measuring the current flow with them connected, and/or measuring their inductive kick. Plus you re-confirm that there is fuel pressure, AND volume. Then you have proven that problem is inside the throttle body, and you will need to take it apart to find out what is going on.

I had a stuck injector in our Dodge a couple years ago. Got some cleaner with the chrysler brand from the dealership to assure compatibility with the fuel system. Had to add the stuff to a couple of tankfuls to fix it for good. Now I add a bottle of Techron a couple times a year. They put the stuff in Chevron gas so I figure it's safe enough. Ditto jemdandy. If the injectors aren't dirty, there's nothing to gain gas mileage wise.