I agree with you, which the chart (“opened with the quick link”) at the bottom of the first long post basically list. Now that I remember, I found a review that stated “the new mower comes assembled and you just add the quart of oil that comes with the mower” which I doubt was a qt. My neighbor new mid grade mower came with a 15 oz bottle of oil. He and his Yardman un-boxed and added some of the oil vs verifying. It smoked so bad I knew something was wrong and ask them to stop and no oil was showing on the stick. I called Home Depot and was told to add the complete 15 oz bottle that came with the mower. We did and the stick checked full. I felt the excessive smoke that finally ended was from the bad positions they had the mower in while adding etc with some oil in it. Directions are not always clear “To Us”! Not to mention being in a hurry w/o looking at any instructions. The Donor Mowers have dried up in this area the last 2-3 yrs. You have to ask for what had been on the curb (after seeing them sit 2-3 yrs outside behind a storage area). The scrap dealers are in larger numbers ahead of the week of monthly City Bulk Pick-up. I still believe maintained residential used mowers vs commercial used mowers are not used an expected lifetime vs a lack of lack of care.

On the contrary. We've all done years of personal growth and therapy since this thread was started plus downloaded an app for our smart phones that all we need to do is scan the engine and specs come up on the screen. Ewalk even has a smart funnel which dispenses the proper amount of oil. He usually even drains the old stuff out first.... ;-)

heri_cles, the sentence should have been "This means that the filter is located between the fuel tank and the fuel pump". I'm sorry for the error. A fuel pump has 2 "ports" through which liquid flows. One is the suction or inlet, this port must be connected to a hose that leads to the fuel tank. The other port is the pressure or outlet, this port connects to a hose that leads to the carburetor. Vacuum or pulse operated pumps also have the third port for the pulse hose but the part about the 2 liquid ports is true for ALL fuel pumps no matter if they are mechanically, electrically, or vacuum operated. I would bet that the filter assembly you have is meant for use on the suction side (between fuel pump and tank). Most of the filters I have seen that are for the pressure side of pump are constructed of metal. As to your other concerns: Length of hose.....With a run of about 4 feet and an inside diameter of 1/4" (and assuming the horsepower of the engine to be less than....say....50HP) your fuel pump would not even know it was drawing through a hose. At the low rate of fuel consumption of your engine...the fuel line might as well be considered as an "extension of the fuel tank". As to the height of the pump above the fuel tank....this is always a consideration BECAUSE these small diaphragm pumps are very weak in the suction aspect of pump performance....but in the application on a lawn or garden tractor you would really not have a problem because in most cases the pump only has to "lift" the fuel something less than 10". As to the size of tank vent........so long as the vent allows air to enter the tank at a rate that matches (or exceeds) the rate at which the fuel is being drawn out of the tank....increasing the vent size will not increase pump performance. Having too large a vent can lead to dirt and debris entering tank or fuel sloshing out of tank. I visited the website of your link and the fact that they included a warning not to use this filter with fuel injection systems supports the idea that it is a suction filter. I noticed that it has 5/16" hose nipples, does your tractor have 5/16" hose? Lastly, you DO NOT want to situate your filter between the pump and carburetor because then you lose the benefit of keeping the "crud" out of the fuel pump.

A strap style filter wrench is the best bet for removing oil filters, but you say you do not have room for such. Some filters are removed from above and many are removed from below. You may need to elevate your vehicle to remove a filter from below. I have a set of ramps I use to raise the auto. I need 2 sizes of strap type filter wrenches to service the vehicles I own. If you are trying to remove a filter by using a cup wrench that fits over the end of the filter, that fir has to be good to remove a tight filter. Different brands of filters may be a little different in size. I'm not sure about this, but some filters may be using metric sizes while others use the inch. Whatever the case, it appears you have an over-tightened filter and its going to require a heafty amount of torque to get it off. In those cases, I have crushed the filter can with a strap wrench before I got it off. Once the can collaspes, I had to change to a smaller wrench. If you are not equipped to handle a stubborn filter, you may have to resort to taking your vehicle to an oil change shop and have them do this oil change. Generic instructions for tightening an oil filter: Spin the filter on until the seal makes contact and offers a little resistrance, and then tighten another 1/2 to 3/4 turns. To aid turns counting, mark the filter before mounting. I often use a ball point pen to mark the end of the filter. I do this with multiple passes of the pen until I get a mark that is easily seen. A piece of tape works too. After the oil has been added to the crankcase, start the engine and check the filter for leaks. If oil seepage is seen, stop the engine and tighten by about 1/8 turn more. Continue this procedure until weepage stops, but do not tighten more than an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn. If the filter still leaks, there may be a problem with the seal or the old seal is there also.