hi, tandaina, It is confusing, but horticultural zone classifications refer to the low temperatures an area has. In my zone 8b in a mild coastal area, lows are usually not more than about 15 degrees. The teas I grow can handle the cold generally, but the kicker is that summertime heat levels are not reflected within that 8b definition. What I've found is that to do well teas need more heat than I have in most of my yard. Summers rarely reach much above 75 degrees. You can create a warm microclimate such as what Jackie is talking about and that helps a lot. Also I've found that with some of the teas that I grow, that even when they bloom, the scent doesn't develop very well. I don't grow very many Austins so have no real opinion of them. Heritage does beautifully for me, though, and I love it. Mostly I've come to love the once bloomers and the polyanthas/multiflora types, so that is what I primarily grow. I do grow several teas and baby them quite a bit, but where I am, I don't think they'll ever attain the height, the floriferousness, the scent that they did in Alabama or in Dallas. That's okay, I couldn't grow a gallica well in Texas. I don't know how much help that is, but I do wish you good luck with your garden! Gean

I did purchase my new King mattress from the same local manufacturer that made my custom rv mattress. I love this company, I was able to tell him exactly how I wanted it to feel on top and how much support and firmness for the core. I did get the individual covered separate coils for less movement and the bamboo top fabric because I sleep hot and the bamboo fabric is great for me. It has the euro top instead of the pillow top the old one had. It is just beautiful too. I really debated if I should get a latex layer in the top, ended up not getting it, but if I was doing it again it would be worth the extra money. I love my latex pillows so much I think I would like the latex layer. I absolutely did not want any type of memory foam I can't stand it. I do have the option to let him take it back and add the latex layer still. Another great thing about this place! I have recommended them to several of our friends, especially those with an rv. And the prices are fantastic. So far I have not had any back pain like I was having from the old one. Super comfortable and extremely supportive. I especially wanted the heavy solid foam sides which will support you sitting on the edge or pushing on it getting up and out. I am a side sleeper and I tend to sleep on the edge of the bed, it supports me completely. I could jump on my side and never move my husband's side. The only thing that I wish was different is how much higher this one is. Thank goodness my sheets still fit. I have no idea if they ship out or not but I know they deliver all around the Houston area.

Budget helps to restrict your choices, which can be helpful. There are SO many choices available that it can be overwhelming! Your budget covers high entry level to low- to mid- middle grade. Which cabinet level would be right for you? That will depend on your needs and wants. What's a want vs a need for you? Part of that will be nuts and bolts construction driven in the lower priced lines. Upgrading lower lines to the same features as a mid priced line often ends up being more expensive. A more expensive line may actually be the better value. If you don't want to have to think too much about cabinet construction, choosing a mid grade line from the beginning will be a better choice. Any American made true midgrade line will give you decent quality without worrying about it, without having to go through any ''upgrades' to get soft close and decent hardware. But, it's the much better finishes that are the most visual external clue that you are not in a lower spec line. Do they have cherry available in a natural finish? Most lower lines don't, because they use a tinted top coat to even out the color differences between the hartwood and sapwood. Are there more than 3 white colors available? The number of finishes and style options are much more limited in value lines. Look at the cut ends of the crossgrain stiles on the doors. Are they smooth and close in color to the long grain? Does the door feel smooth and have a good match on the solids or veneers? What does the depth of the finish look like? How thick is the spec book provided to the designer? I have lines that have books 1''-5''. The more options, the thicker the book! once you hit 2'', you ought to have enough options to do 100% of what you have determined to be the actual physical needs of your kitchen, and likely a good number of wants as well. If you go mid grade, then the decisions are largely going to be down to aesthetic ones instead of parsing structural differences. You have to develop your own list of needs in the aesthetic realm, ranking things according to your criteria. Is white traditional looking cabinetry a need to you because you live in a historic district in a historic house? Or would quarter sawn oak for a Craftsman with original woodwork be the more correct choice? Or how about slab wood cabinets for a MCM Eschler? Choosing the correct cabinet style for the ''bones'' of the house is always a good way to spend your money. So check to see which lines your local dealer offers that fills that need. Most mid grade lines will be able to do whatever you need and want, so at that point, you really need to be shopping Kitchen Designers, not brands. A good KD can guide you to the best line for maximizing your budget. Find a good match there, and you don't really need to do the nuts and bolts research, unless that just appeals to you!

+1 to WoW's comments. Even the worst windows will not seem terrible on day one, or even year two. Generally, better windows will have fewer QC issues off the bat, have a more substantial look and feel, and will also be easier to install to ensure proper operation and performance. That said, sitting on this side of the equation where we not only replace 10-12 year old builder windows regularly, but have to service the windows that we have sold 5, 7, 10+ years ago, that is where the products really tend to separate themselves. Excessive seal failures, bowing sashes, broken parts, etc... I truly hope that your windows serve you well for a long time schreibdave, but once you push 10+ years you are beating the odds at that point. That may sound like sour grapes but the fact of the matter is this: I could sell exponentially more jobs by using a cheaper product at a lower price point, however after X years I'd put myself out of business trying to service them. Builders on the other hand aren't fielding calls on they cheap windows that they put in in year 10, so they can get away with that type of thing.