Brake pulls can be caused by pad or rotor contamination. They can be caused by a brake hose failure which I will describe. The traditional brake hose failure is the result of the inner lining of the brake hose splitting, and then acting a bit like a check valve. It could slow a brake on apply, which would make the vehicle pull towards the side that operates normally, it could hold a brake applied which of course results in overheating, and then the pull can be consistent to one side, or even change sides at different times. Then we have the one that confuses a lot of people. Look at your brake hoses on the truck, you will see a bracket that supports the hose. This bracket wraps around the hose making a firm grip. Should this bracket rust on the inside against the hose, the rust causes the bracket to squeeze the hose ever harder, until it restricts fluid flow through the hose, in both directions. You end up with a pull that goes one way when you first hit the pedal, and then the other way when you release the pedal. You will also notice, the pull goes away after a second or two because while the fluid is restricted and slowed down, it does eventually reach the same pressure as the other side. While the hose still needs replaced, simply relieving the brackets grip on the hose will allow it to work better, and that pull will be changed right away. If pad contamination is the cause of the pull, swapping the pads AND the rotors side to side will make the pull go to the other side. Pad contamination can occur if someone greases the tie rods or ball joints, and uses too much grease, or if the joint seals are bad. The "evidence" of this kind of contamination disappears very quickly, but the brakes can simply pull until they are replaced. This could be what has happened, and they didn't see anything that would tip them off to the cause. There are more possible reasons for brake pulls, front suspension issues can easily come into play. It takes real detective work by a good technician to sort through problems like this. Just remember, "anyone can do brakes" at least that's what people always want to tell me.

I was just asking about wood because you said a previous owner cut out "nice wood" and it seems you are not satisfied with your prehung door. The Old House forum is not just for restoration. They may be able to suggest alternatives to what you have and suggest replacement companies which will offer what you are looking for. Doors more sensitive to your architecture are available in a variety of materials requiring less maintenance. People with old houses often have solutions for the problen you are encountering.

Not likely a wood chip. Possible that it picked up a pebble and flung it when they were grinding it up. That picture is terrible and if they are facing inside, it appears the damage was done from the interior to be honest. With regards to your other questions: Totally depends on the window in question. Usually glass is measured and prepared before coming to the jobsite to deglaze and repair. Find some of the operable units and look for warranty/serial number on the glass, in the head jamb, on the sashes, etc. If they have acknowledged that it was then that damaged the glass, they will probably bill you and do some sort of warranty holdback credit on the open bill for a modest amount. Without seeing the window, I couldn't even hazard a guess as to the repair/replacement cost so that holdback would be dependent on that.

" Is there any cheap vinyl window brand out there that you would recommend that's under $250/window" No.