Part should be around $50-100. Engine has to be torn down pretty far to get to it. So far, in fact, that you might as well have them change the timing belt & tensioner while they're at it....the engine is due for it (every 60k miles), and if it breaks while running (always does if you don't change it) then the engine is potentially trash....at the very least you'll have to replace some valves. TB will be $50-80 and should incur maybe 1/2 hour of additional labor....but you're saving 5-ish hours of labor by having both done at the same time. Also, if pookems is the typical bubblehead teenage-put-gas-in-it-and-drive female, I'd have this fixed ASAP....if it blows a bunch of coolant out and she doesn't notice the guage is pegged, then you'll warp the heads/block, etc, and trash the engine.

Chevrolet and Ford will survive the Toyota onslaught as long as they can keep their repair costs about one half's of Toyota and Honda... $365 for a good 2 to 3 hours labor including $100 or so in parts.. sounds almost fair to me.. but I should have stayed in this field...

Thanks earthworm! I am replacing the entire belt tensioner, but have to remove the PS pump first to get it off. The only thing I am having trouble with now is getting one last bolt off that holds the power steering pump, which you have to remove to remove the tensioner. It is in the back of the pump, on the opposite side where the pulley is. In the meantime, I have removed so much stuff just to be able to get this tensioner off, it is ridiculous: PCV valve hose Canister hose/line Both PS pump hoses (I did not want to have to do that!) Coolant overflow tank Two alternator bolts Belt Idler pulley What should be an easy job has turned out to be a big one! Now back to that final PS pump bolt: the problem is it is almost impossible to access: a) On the side of the pump facing the front of the car is the cylinder head, which prevents a wrench from fitting. b) On the side opposite the PS pump pulley, 1/2" away there is a vertical heater hose attached to the bottom of the head/intake manifold, and there is one of those annoying spring-type clamps holding it on. The problem is access is so tight, it is impossible to maneuver pliers in there from any angle, including those special pliers for removing the spring-type clamps. And the prongs of the clamp are only 1/4" or so from the wall of the PS pump, and deep down from the top. And one of the prongs is under the manifold! (The problem is I cannot get to the PS pump bolt from the top unless I remove the heater hose. But I cannot remove the heater hose unless I remove the PS pump! Catch-22. The manufacturer must have assembled the intake manifold/heater hose together as a unit, without regard to where the spring-clamp faced???) c) And finally, if I try to access the PS pump from under the car, it will be very hard, as it is high up, with almost no room to fit my hand in around the exhaust pipe, oil filter, cross-member, etc. Although I admit I have not tried this yet. d) On the side of the PS pump facing the firewall, there is a bracket attached to the PS pump holder bracket that makes accessing the final PS pump bolt hard. I could disconnect this bracket (I have already disconnected one side at the PS pump holder bracket), but here is the weird part: no wrench will fit over the nut holding the other end of the bracket in place! I have tried 10, 11, 12, and 13 mm. I have also tried 7/16" and 1/2". 11 and 12 mm seem too big. 10 is too small. Same with 7/16" and 1/2". The problem is I really cannot see the nut to see what the problem is, since the nut is over a vertical stud attached to the bottom of the intake manifold, and the nut is facing down, towards the ground. I assume it is a hex nut I think it feels like one, but it is hard to completely feel, since I cannot get my fingers all the way around it. You know what? It looks like one of those nut caps that my car uses to hold the thermostat housing in place: capped hex nut, with a star shaped design protruding out on the cap part. Really weird. But it is supposed to be torqued 48 lb. ft., which seems like a lot for a small nut, although it is ultimately connected to an engine mount. If I only could get that nut and bracket out of the way, then I would be able to turn a wrench to get the final PS pump bolt out. Another problem is, assuming I can find the right size wrench or socket, this nut is torqued to around 48 lb. ft., and there is limited access to get a 3/8" ratchet in there to loosen it. A 1/4" ratchet will not have enough torque. And maybe not even a 10 mm wrench. Perhaps I will have to remove the blower motor too. I just don't know what to do. Julie

Your engine: 1993, 2.2 L, 4cy, 114,000 KM (70,836 Miles) Wow! That is low mileage for year 1993. At one time, my wife had a 1989 Plymouth Sundance (US version). I've got a repair manual for the '89 2.2 and 2.5 L 4cy, plus the 3.0 L V6 engines. I believe that the layout of the 2.2 and 2.5 L engines remained about the same up through '93. I'll be quoting from the '89 manual. Drive belt: From what I see, the water pump is driven by an accessory belt, not the timing belt. (The water pump on the 3.0 L V6 is driven by the timing belt.) There are 2 to 3 accessory belts on the 2.2 and 2.5 L engines; 3 belts when equipped with an air conditioner compressor. However, the water pump housing is behind the timing belt so that will likely have to come off. The water pump on this engine is unusual in that it has a 2 piece housing. The book labels the back part, "Housing" and the front part, "Body assembly". These two halves are held together with 9 screws; a gasket is between the halves. Here is a potential for a leak. The tigntening torque specified for these 9 screws is 12 Nm (105 in-lb). The water pump assembly is fastened to the engine with 3 screws at the top and one screw much lower down. [Torque for the top 3 screws is 30 Nm (250 in-lb) and the bottom, 68 Nm (50 ft-lb)] You could try checking those 9 screws for tightness if you can get at those without disturbing the timing belt and sprockets. However, the drawing in my book doesn't look promising. I think the intermediate sprocket (associated with the timing belt) covers 2 of the 9 screws.