Hi Jem. The condition you are describing occurs when the computers onboard lose communication. They all share the same yellow wire with a purple tracer circuit to communicate with each other. Essentially the instrument cluster knows to turn the airbag light off when it recieves data from the airbag module instructing it to do that. If it stops receiving data from that module, it turns that light on. The tachometer and speedometer data come from the fuel injection computer (PCM). Diagnostics start with a scan tool that is capable of getting information from every computer on the car, they all "Should" have set communication troule codes but typically the module that failed during the "event" doesn't know that it went down so it might not have "U" codes while every other module does. The hard part is this does not mean the module is bad,it could have lost power (unlikely) or a ground connection (very likely). When a module loses power it simply drops off the data bus, but when they lose a ground connection they can back-feed power onto the bus and crash the communication. If you shut the car off, you might not get it restarted because the data bus has to be functional for the PCM to get the theft deterrent go/no-go command from the SKIM module. These problems are tough to solve when they are random, not that they are all that easy as hard failures. The fault could lie in any of the modules on the bus, or at almost any point of the data bus wire. Typical diagnostic strategies rely on seperating the data bus when you can measure a disruption of the signal voltage waveforms. Isolate the wire that has the bad module on it, reconnect the rest and use the scan tool to see who is missing. At that point you can test for powers, grounds, or wiring harness issues for that affected module. So, you need a fully functional scan tool which is the Chrysler DRBIII, an oscilloscope with at least to channels, wiring schematics, and component location graphics. BTW the splice or splice pack if it uses one will be below the steering column, possibly inside the harness that runs right behind the knee bolster. There just isn't much more help that I can give you, it takes training and a disciplined approach to solve these efficiently. It can be done DIY with what I have explained here, but the equipment issue makes it prohibitive. Imagine dealing with one or two cars everyday with this kind of problem and you have a picture of what I have been doing for the last decade.

First, all 'tv repair guys' are not professional, nor do they 'know their stuff'. Just like doctors, lawyers and indian chiefs. Unfortunatly, the one that you had didn't know 'squat'. The ic that was replaced on the picture tube circuit board, was the crt driver, which means picture tube driver. If it is defective, you will have 'NO PICTURE - EVER'. That's no biggie. The dark square that is showing on the screen, after the tv repair guy, checked the set, is caused by a menu adjustment. On the customer menu, 'TEXT' is turned on and should be turned off. Your first symptom was the set turning off, with a black screen with colored lines across the screen. This symptom indicates a failure in the "vertical circuit". A failure in the vertical circuit causes the picture to turn off. This is a safety circuit to prevent burning a line in the phosphor, thereby protecting the picture tube. 'Vertical failure' can be caused by defective solder connections on the vertical ic. This is due to the heating and cooling, ie expanding/contracting of the connections. First, resolder the ic connections. They may appear 'good', but resolder anyway. I believe that the leads can be reached by just turning the set up on its side. The vertical ic is located at the rear of the circuit board. A 'clip' holds the ic to the metal frame(heat sink). If that doesn't cure the problem, you will need to replace the vertical ic. IC7471(TDA8359J). good luck, pw

Recently our TV has developed a problem with the picture. It started-out that the picture would come on and then go off. When it went off, the green power light would flash fast. The sound stays on and I can change the channels but now the picture is just a series of vertical bands of varying widths on the channels that are tuned-in (rabbit-ear style)and plain black on the channels that aren't. When it first happened I turned it off and checked all the connections, turned it on and the picture stayed for a second then went off with the power light blinking quickly. While it was on I reached around and tried the connections and when I wiggled the power cord, the picture flickered. I tugged and twisted the cord until the picture stayed on and I watched a few hours of television with no technical difficulties. The next day the picture never came back. Since then I've opened up the back and "shoveled" out the dust hoping for an easy fix but that was not the case. I now turn to you for advise. I am not electronically versed but I can pull things apart and put them back together. How difficult is the fix for this? At this time of the year I would like to forego the extra expense that a repair shop would charge. But if I could go to them after you tell me what might be wrong I wouldn't feel so helpless. Thanks for any help you might send my way and Merry Christmas!

Typically, when an oven cannot maintain the temperature, its a Hot Surface Ignitor that has worn out. This is a wear-and-tear item analogous to putting new tires on a car after several years. It has nothing to do with the manufacturer; all ovens will eventually need a new HSI after some years. There are usually two HSIs - one for the oven and one for the broiler. That is why often the oven cannot maintain temperature, while the broiler is fine. You can buy the HSI online and install it yourself if you are handy, and if you can locate the parts exploded diagram to see where the HSI is located. Or have an appliance repair person do it - depending on where you live, they will charge $150-200.