I guess the fan motor is as good as any to discuss the problem. The one on my car is the original one from Dodge and has lasted 19 years and 220,000 miles. I buy my cars new and keep them until they die. This one is a 1990 Dodge caravan where all the seats except the front 2 have been removed making it ideal for transporting orchids to shows and meetings. To get a replacement from the Dodge dealer is $160, just for the stupid little motor. The car parts dealers have fan motors for about $25 to $35 but not my particular one which is a 'Dealer only' item what ever the H--- that means. It means officially sanctioned rip-off. By fixing mine they saved me way over $100. If I could get a Chinese one for $20 like you Arthurm, I would, for my car that just did not work out. My main complaint is about the radiator which was declared 'non-repairable' because it has a plastic top part. New radiators (probably made in China) were pushed on me for $100 to $150 plus $70 plus for labor. The fix it guys solved everything for $90 out the door by FIXING the existing parts. That's what I would like to see more of. A much more egrarious example was a repair I had on a Mercedes 500 SEL, about 10 years old. That car has since died and is in Mercedes heaven (Junk yard). About 10 years ago it failed smog and was declared to need a new catalytic converter. The big V8 has 2 exhaust pipes, connected in 2 places which each have 3 chambers for the exhaust treatment. From the engine backwards it starts with a pre-muffler, then the muffler and last the catalytic converter. That's a total of 6 units, one of which needed to be replaced. I went to the Mercedes dealer and asked for the needed part. They told me that the entire exhaust system is sold as one unit, both pipes with their 6 chambers for $1,800 plus about $500 for labor! Again off to Alameda street where with a hack saw they cut off the catalytic converter and welded an after market unit in place for a total cost of $120. Now it was no longer a Mercedes parts only car but who cares, it passed smog and my wallet did not take a major hit. I just simply won't stand for the kind of rip off the car dealers consider 'normal business practice'. Nick

Not familar with JD sabre, but you don't need headlights other than to see with in the dark. You can check the bulbs with a muiltmeter or look for the filment stright broken across the two little prog inside the bulb and there is usually a discolorization of the bulb when it burns out. Head light switch should be on the dash, or maybe they are light them chevies burn all the time? Which is probably why the don't work, maybe the previous owner removed them? If you want to know for sure follow the wires. As far as charging goes it better without lights cause that is a drain on the charging system. Seat shutoff switch is like a light switch either it's on or off and there for your protection in case of roll over or you getting off and you foot sliding under the deck. I would pick up the yard before I mow. I'll let someone else tell you how to do that

I had a similar issue with the snow thrower on my Cub, but for me it was partially a brightness issue (corrected by replacing the bulbs with LED's), and partially a placement issue - the snow thrower is almost as high as the headlights. Realizing that the issue is similar to snow plows, here's what I did... I picked-up a couple auxiliary LED lights off eBay. I tried one about the size of a thumb, that had a single LED. It was OK, but I also tried one that's about 2.5" square, with 3 LED's, that throws a little wider beam. Using a couple simple "L" brackets, I mounted these using existing hood hinge screws. This placed the lights about 6" higher, and a few inches further from center, than the existing lights I wired-in a quick-connect to the original lights, so I could unplug those and plug these-in - just like a snow plow. These pull a little more current than the stock bulbs, but I don't use it that often at night, and have the tractor on a battery tender when not in use, so I really don't worry about the extra draw. I have about $15 in supplies, and maybe a hour's time in modifications. It maybe adds 5 minutes to the mower-to-snow change-over, but really helps on those darker winter nights.

I just replaced some on one of my cars. Took about a couple of minutes for each one. I bought the Sylvania Silverstar Ultra. They are brighter than normal ones. Better if you have a hard time seeing at night like me. Owner manual should tell you how to install. Got mine at Auto parts store. Go in with your manual to make sure you get the correct ones. I've also heard about the oil on your hands being bad. Use gloves?