Hum, I read there to be some improvements in 1990+ vintage Yamaha, maybe a CD electronic ignition like the one I just replaced. Oh, on rethinking the $2,500.00 USD was for 9.9 HP 4 cycle, I'd bet a 20 HP would be at least $3,500 - a guess only. I got the boat/engine out for a test run this afternoon, it was a little hard to start, started and died when the choke pushed in.. got better. Ran well a both partial and wide open, but wouldn't idle at low rpm without dieing. I recalled I had screwed the idle jet screw on the carb before determining the engine had no spark. So, when I got back to the dock I stood in my hip boots with the engine in the lake and adjusted the idle screw... seems best at about 4 turns out ... much more out than any past engine I've worked on. It now seems to idle well at low rpm. I took sandwich and beer (not allowed, so I didn't really do the beer part if this post is read by a NJ Ranger :( ) and fished for a couple of hours, mostly trolling with a large swim-bait. I got nothing and didn't see much on the sonar either. I didn't use a down-rigger so the swim bait was likely no more than 20 feet down, the fish I saw were mostly 35' or more down.. also threw a jig several times. Any tips on a web site that give good advice on best hooks and rigging for swim bates?

I agree with T-man (prior damage). In the photos I see marking and erosion in the space between the upper right and lower right bolt holes (right, as looking at the photos) that is characteristic of a heavy component having been loose to move about it's mounting bolts for an extended period of time. I surmise that the threaded holes were damaged from the old starter banging around (not just from reaction to torque during cranking, but also from bouncing and jostling during using the machine). When this happens to a threaded hole, the threads deepest into the hole might remain virtually damage free, but the threads closest to the entry point of the hole will be have the most severe damage. The replacement bolts might have tried to follow a path different from the undamaged threads deeper into the hole. As the bolt turned further into the hole, it may have tried to alter it's course as it encountered a change in the threads. The end result is that ALL the threads in the hole became damaged and the holding capacity of the hole was compromised. This led to the new starter loosening and since there were only 2 mtg bolts to wrestle with this time, the loosening probably happened quicker. As a result, the side area of the hole (upper left one) broke out. Unfortunately, it appears that the best methods to try salvaging this engine would require removing the engine from the tractor. As bill stated, "Heli-coil" would be one way to POSSIBLY restore the holes (and both holes need to be restored). A Heli-coil insert (boy, the name seems to imply that you just "pop" them in, wrong) is like a coil spring except it is a precision thread after installation, and the repaired hole accepts the original bolt size. I can't tell from looking at the photos if these holes are deep enough to allow for the drilling and tapping required to prepare the hole for a Heli-coil repair. Also, since it seems that the side of the hole has broken out, I doubt there is enough base material present around the hole to actually "hold" a Heli-coil insert. If the holes are deep enough to support the drilling and tapping for Heli-coil repair, long length Heli-coil inserts could be installed and corespondingly longer bolts used to mount the starter to the "block". Whether the holes are deep enough to support this is a question best answered by a machine shop. The other method to salvage this engine would be to weld up the damaged holes and retap them to the original size bolts. Either method would ideally require a competent machine shop and/or welding shop capable of welding aluminum with T.I.G.( the material appears to be cast aluminum in the photos) If you can measure the depth of the holes accurately, I'll try to determine if there is enough space to try Heli-coil (measure depth of both upper holes, be sure there is no dirt or foreign matter pack in the bottom of the holes, clean them out with a small screwdriver, stiff wire or other tool.) For you to implement a Heli-coil repair yourself, you would need to obtain a Heli-coil kit for the specific size bolt diameter and pitch of the threads. If it goes that far, you'll just take one of your old mtg bolts with you to the store. The Heli-coil kit will have: The correct diameter drill bit necessary to enlarge the damaged hole, a special sized Heli-coil tap to thread the hole so it will accept the Heli-coil insert, a tap handle to turn the tap with, a Heli-coil insert installation tool (the tap handle is used to turn this tool also), and a limited number of inserts. Instructions included. If you want more insight into the Heli-coil method and products you can do a www.helicoil thing to check out whether you are tempted to try it or not. If you decide to attempt this your self, it will not be entirely necessary to remove the engine, but I already anticipate some clearance issues that would require the use of a 3/8" drive extension to turn the tap handle instead of the cross bar that is furnished in the kit. BTW, all that JB Weld will have to be sanded flat before re-mounting the starter. Maybe T-man can post the diameter and thread pitch for us. The holes appear to be sized for 3/8" bolts but might be 7/16".

Thanks Walt! I am beginning my reassembly now. By the way, I did all of the cutting on the pulley with a Dremel tool. Actually a black and decker wizard with the wand attachment and a 1.5" as well as a 1" cut off wheel. It might have taken a little longer, but I was able to get closer to the sump without worry of cutting into it. I had to bend open the pulley in places to get the tool deep enough to cut through the thicker middle section of the pulley but that was eased by the cutting to the holes the guys at the machine shop drilled in order to use a wheel puller on it.

Awesome! The fixya.com website has a clear set of steps for replacing (moldy) bellows on FL Kenmore / Whirlpool washers. And, the following much simpler directions were in one of the comments, by DGBG, also vetted: --------- DGBG: 8/31/2009 Ya'll are going through a lot of work. This is a 5 minute job tops. Try this. ***(Tip washer back 45 degrees or so which makes room by having drum drop back) *** 1. Open the door. 2. Locate the ring and spring that fits the front of the bellows to the front of the machine and remove it. 3. Push the old bellows inside the washer after removing the 2 ports(Left side) and top. 4. Locate hex nut (Usually 2-o-clock) and loosen the giant hose clamp that hold the back of the bellows to the machine. 5. Remove bellows and discard. 6. Put new on on reverse order 5...1 The guy at Sears repair depot gave me the (tip it back) pearl. WOW was it easy. ------- A number of folks did follow the simple steps and reported success, along with a 2nd tip to take off the bottom kick plate which covers the filter, "which you should clean out while you're in there." However, the easy instructions may unfortunately not apply to me :-(, since our washer is on one of those convenient 15" pedestals. I could pull out the washer and pedestal, and then tip the washer back, but the pedestal isn't designed for that weight to be all at the back, .... nor would I want the pedestal to start sliding forward while the washer's at an angle. Any ideas?? Perhaps to tip back the washer only just enough to drop the drum back, and support the washer on some blocks on the pedestal???