Hi all, I don't know if anyone else has had this problem but here's my solution. I have owned a Troy Bilt Zero turn mower for about 2 years. As with all zero turns they are meant for fairly flat areas, But my problem came because the front steering didn't turn as well as it should. On damp grass the rear tires would slip and dig up the grass under the drive tire on a turn. Also the distance was so slim between the tire and the fork that holds it that grass would jam up between them causing the tire to freeze up and skid on the ground tearing up the grass. I learned to watch for this and if the grass built up I would stop and back up clearing the grass from the wheel but leaving a glob of clippings on the ground. I thought this was normal for all zero turn mowers, until the front tires became distorted and crooked almost like a belt inside the tire was broken. Finally one tire became so distorted it bound up in the steering fork that holds it. Troy Bilt wanted anywhere from $70.00 - $90.00 + shipping for 1 new wheel and tire, and delivery time was 10 days. I went to Harbor Freight and purchased 2 #38943 10" Pneumatic Rigid Caster wheels which include the frame work, bearings, wheel, tire, and axle for $10.99 each. The Harbor Freight frame sits almost perfect inside the original Troy Bilt frame. I welded the one from Harbor Freight inside the Troy Bilt one If ever I need a new tire, wheel, or bearing the whole tire & hub assembly # 43612 costs $9.99 $5.99 on sale. I have found this set-up to work great. It steers better and doesn't get clogged with grass because there is more clearance between the tire and frame work. The only draw back I can see is the bearings aren't grease able, so I may drill the hub for a fitting to be able to grease them. I hope this helps some one else out there. Dave

Well, I hope you have alot of patience! First I would go to sears.com, enter you tractor number. This will eventually lead you to a parts breakdown for your model. Now study the parts break down and go inspect the tractor steering parts, naturally you will want to look for play or slop in parts. Most designs have the stamped steel front axles, if yours cast iron then it would be different on my following instructions. usually you will need the nylon snap in probably the sector gear, steering shaft, usually the pittman shaft. but First look at the front axle while somebody is moving the steering wheel. If it rocks back and forward the center mount bolt may just be loose. If not you may have to change the bearing spacer (bushing) on the front axle. You also may have spindle wear,tie rod, and drag link wear. basiclly you will have to figure out which parts are worn and just not loose where tighting will remove some of the slop. The hardest part would be the sector gear and steering shaft, the steering shaft cause on most models the shaft just don't come out without tearing the dash apart. also has a nylon steering shaft bushing thats probably worn also. Good luck this will test you patience and mechanical ability to the max. "O" if I had a camera I would also take pictures, incase you need something to look at when you assemble it.

locknut - I checked under both front boots and the cables were in tact. They seemed loose so I thought an adustment was required. Since I couldn't find any info on cable adjustment I decided to go to the dealer. I didn't investigate any further at that point, just hurried up and off I went to the dealer. Turns out one of the cables was broken. The service rep didn't know where the cable broke but said he would make sure the mechanic saved the old cable. It will cost me about 140 as well. I run mine hard as well so I guess a visit to the dealer after four years isn't bad. Thanks for your help!

Sometimes the lower bushing on the steering shaft goes away on these. Best to replace both. Just need to get into it and look for wear.