Thanks for the input everybody. I found out that whichever lead is connected to the "heat" plug is the one that is used in "fan" mode. A friend has my laser thermometer, so until I get it back I won't be switching the "low" fan speed to the "heat" plug. Once I get the thermometer back I'll switch them, then run the heat and measure the output temp to see if it's within the range specified in the manual. Does that sound right? As I said before it's rare that we even use the furnace, and we could probably get by without using it at all since we have a gas insert fireplace with a blower and there is a return air duct near the fireplace so we can use the fireplace with the air handler fan on during real cold nights (28-30F in Houston)and that will probably keep the whole house above 65F (our winter stat setting). I should have added the house was built in '08 and it's energy start certified, so it's pretty tight. I really wish we had a variable speed system but it would be a waste to replace a brand new 14 seer r-410 system (even though it is builders grade).

Why not go with a heat pump and use the gas as back-up to the heat pump on days when the outside temp is less than freezing? You get the same a/c but with cheap heat. Your climate is not that cold. What are your electric rates in New Orleans? If they're cheap, you can go electric back-up and eliminate the gas altogether. I installed a 14 SEER Goodman heat pump last month. You want to make sure that the installer is giving you a thermo expansion valve (TXV) installed externally at the air handler. This is an option for Goodman and will be the best $55 that you will spend. If the installer tells you that the unit comes with a TXV, he is wrong. For a 2-ton unit, the part# is TX3N2. Along with the TXV, the installer needs to put in a hard start capacitor on the outside unit, Part# CSR-U-1 for about another $18. The TXV will ensure that you are getting the 14 SEER rating from the system at all times under all conditions. The hard start cap provides the extra starting power needed with a TXV. The 14 SEER Goodman is a better choice than the 13 SEER because the 14 comes with a Copeland scroll compressor (favored in the industry) while the 13 has a reciprocating compressor. As far as the variable speed vs 3-speed fan, the v/s is supposed to provide better de-humidification. I live in Baltimore, a humid area, but I chose the 3 speed fan motor. I like to run the fan in the summer, and the v/s only runs the fan at 30% of the low setting when in fan-only. A 3-speed motor is much cheaper to replace than the v/s after the 10 year warranty. This was my choice, the majority want the v/s. One last note, the air handler for the 14 SEER is different than the air handler of the 13 SEER. Make sure the contractor doesn't mismatch them. V/S air handler for 14 SEER is AEPF303616A (rated at 15 SEER with a TXV), 3-speed air handler is ARUF193116A (rated at 14 SEER with a TXV). You get an extra SEER point with the v/s motor. This info is on Goodman's website, www.goodmanmfg.com, Product Specifications. Best of luck.

Check the bearings on blower unit, if the blower spins freely, you need some pro help, especially with no wiring diagram. Without seeing the setup it,s impossible to give more detailed advice.

Ok I had a different tech show up this morning to check on my complaints. He found a 'Y' wire on the compressor was always turning it on high (should have been Y2 I think). He also found on the furnace that the 'BK' wire wasn't connected correctly. Now it *is* shifting gears on both heat and AC ;-) However, I wish the AC low speed blower was slower. For comparison of the different modes, I am holding my Radio Shack db meter up to the air return. Here's what I have: everything off - 48 db fan only - 65 heat low - 72 heat high - 78 ac low - 76 ac high - 79 Also, from low to high, at the outside condenser, the db increase about 10. I would really like the ac low to be as low as the heat low, but the tech said the ac will always be higher. He said he called and talked to a factory tech to ensure he had things set up correctly. He said he could adj the blower lower with the dip switches, but would only do so if I signed a waiver. No thanks on that. In the furnace manual is a chart of airflow setting vs dip switch setting vs ext static pressure. I don't know how to grok that table, but it shows Low as 350cfm/ton, Normal as 400cfm/ton, and High as 450cfm/ton. That's all I got. Thanks!