To clarify things---the heating pad I have is not for sale. I was just providing feedback on the device as well as a link to a source, should anyone be in the market for one at this time of year. It's a good size----runs the full length of the shop lights. The pad comes with just the two leads---you would have to wire a plug or short extension onto it. I wired it to a small electrical box with a light dimmer in it to give me the ability to adjust the temperature. I may have "over engineered" things with the dimmer but otherwise, when you plug it in, it will be on "high" continually. I wasn't sure if this would be a problem. But if it is, you could elevate the flats slightly on a couple of boards.

My HAH powerhead for carpet is a "TurboCat." The website for that product says, "Will the Air Driven Power Brush clean as well as an Electric Powerhead? If the Turbocat Air Driven Power Brush is matched with the right Power Unit tests show that it�s performance is comparable to an Electric Power Head. The Turbocat has a higher life expectancy, higher brush speed than many electric power head�s, it is lighter, it has an automatic height adjustment feature, and it has the ability to clean closer to edges. In addition the Turbocat has a built in Performance Indicator. If airflow is restricted within the tubing or power unit, the Turbocat will slow down, indicating that the system is not operating at peak performance and should be checked." I have never used an electric powerhead to compare suction ability. My powerhead does a good enough job, but I imagine there is room for improvement....

I have the Denise set and I also have a couple of the Boye interchangeables. I HATE, HATE, HATE the Boye ones. I am constantly having to tighten them as they come unscrewed frequently. My yarn is frequently getting caught on the join too. I'm glad I didn't buy the whole set. If you want to try Denise out you can buy all the pieces separately. I inherited my set from my mother and after many years the cables were wearing. I was lso missing one set of needles. I ordered several needles in the most used sizes and ordered lots of various cable lengths. They are quite inexpensive. The biggest cost seems to be in the case, so you can buy things separately and get everything cheaper than you would by buying the set. I have carpal tunnel and I like the flexibility in the needles, though the bigger the needle the less flexibility.

You can use just about any DC power supply with your LEDs, if you're willing to change the series resistors. Resistors are cheap, and changing the value can allow you to buy a very inexpensive surplus power supply of some arbitrary voltage from 5 to say 20 volts. What matters with LED is the current. Every LED has a design current that provides normal brightness without overheating the LED. The most common value for your garden-variety top-hat style LED (normal or high brightness, but not super high brightness) is 20 milliamps (0.020 amp). You can calculate the right resistance value, but it's really easy to figure it out experimentally. First, get a bunch of resistors in values around the ones you now have (say 1/2 present to 4-5 times present resistance in ohms). Use a DMM to measure the current your LED draws at the present voltage (or check the spec sheet). If your new power supply is higher voltage, start with a very high resistance value (say 3-4 times what it is now). If it's lower, keep the present value for the moment. Connect everything in series -- power supply, meter, resistance, LED. Try different resistance values, gradually lowering the value until you have the same current you have now, or maybe a little less. That's your new resistor value. Get one for each LED, and you're all set.