***"not necessary to disconnect both cables when working on electrical, just the negative/black?"*** That is correct.....So long as the negative/black cable is in fact, the GROUND cable for the vehicle electrical system. And in most machines built in the last 40 years or so, the negative/black is the ground conductor. But you must "cling to" every word of the description. "Negative", "Black", "Ground"! Each word must be considered as a separate and individual criterion when you are preparing to "put a tool" to the battery terminals. (this is a lesson, listen up) There are currently (no pun) no laws governing the colors of wires and cables used in AUTOMOTIVE applications. There are "generally accepted and recognized practices", but no REGULATIONS. Black is nearly universally used as the color (by OEMs) of the negative battery cable, Red for positive cable, but some OEMs might decide to use black cables for BOTH positive and negative conductors leading from the battery posts. And, additionally, you must always consider that the original RED positive cable.....might have been replaced with a BLACK cable. Furthermore, the OEM, BLACK negative cable, might have been replaced with a RED one (you see all kinds of things in "used equipment". The odds of finding a BLACK cable for the positive conductor are actually pretty good, while the odds for finding a RED cable for the negative conductor are slim (but I have found them more than once). Nonetheless, since it only requires that you "look at" the markings on the battery (positive+, negative-), that is what you MUST DO,.... each and every time you prepare to "put a tool" on a battery terminal. ALSO, when you identify the negative post/cable of the battery......trace the cable to where it connects next. If the negative cable connects to the vehicle frame, chassis, or engine block....it is the GROUND conductor. This configuration is what you will find on just about every machine/vehicle of recent manufacture. But, it makes sense to understand the relationship of "color vs. polarity vs. function" in a vehicle electrical system. IF the black cable is connected to the negative battery post at one end, and to the "vehicle ground" at the other end.........that is the only cable you need to remove from the battery in order to render the electrical system "inert" and safe to work on. Even that statement will have "limitations" if the vehicle has advanced electronics and engine/cab controls, but for MOST L&G tractors, it is the best, safest, practice. ................................................... Getting back to your Huskee. Before doing the next test, disconnect the GROUND cable from the battery. Leave all wires connected to the solenoid "posts",.... connected for the test. The black/blue pair will be removed but reconnected in this procedure. To further test whether the solenoid is defective (shorting inside the solenoid), if the first series of tests point in that direction, remove the mounting bolts of the solenoid (where solenoid mtg bracket fastens to chassis/frame. Reconnect the black/blue pair of wires to their same chassis/frame bolt and secure with nut. Use some kind of non-metallic, electrically insulating material (suitable piece of cardboard, carpet, even an old sneaker will do) to set the solenoid on so it can't touch a grounded surface (chassis). Once you have the solenoid resting on the non-metallic material, reconnect the ground cable to the battery negative post. Now, operate the ignition switch to the start position. If the fuse does not "blow" now, it indicates the solenoid has an internal short to ground (fuse DID NOT blow because no ground was provided for the "short" to use). Don't expect the solenoid to operate during the test. Access to the solenoid on my Huskee is somewhat "difficult at best", but I find I can get a better view of it by going in from the right side floorboard/step area (front end of center console and backside of engine). I have to lock the brake/clutch pedal down to get more room for my head. In taking the photos, I went through the battery access under seat AND from the other end I described above.

You probably need a test light to see what is going on. I agree with the previous suggestions that wrong parts may have been installed or connected improperly. Check ground wires for continuity. Also look at the safety switches to see if they are adjusted or packed with grass. Problems like this require in depth knowledge of the electrical system. This was a very nice older mower that is well worth maintaining. The horizontal shaft engine has been out of production for about 10 years. The blower housing and baffles on the engine should be removed to clean the cooling fins.

Reviving this old thread since there really aren't a lot of user reviews on cornufe. I’ve been using for about a month and I love mine. Range is powerful and simmer is great for the most part. Oven cooks well and the range in general is beautiful. One thing I wish I’d checked: the oven comes with one normal rack, one telescopic rack, and one rack that is only designed to fit a cornufe broil pan or cookie sheet. The cookie sheet hollow rack is annoying since a normal rack would be more useful ( you can always put a cookie sheet or broil pan on top of a normal rack). the telescoping rack is great EXCEPT it’s really difficult to move it from one level to another. I’ve been practicing and it still takes me 10 minutes. My Miele oven telescoping rack can be moved quite easily in about 10 seconds. Anyone else have one and learned the trick?

I just bought 2 'remotes/fobs' through Amazon for my 4Runner. The price for 2, which came with easy instructions on how to program them, was $33.53. I also bought 2 keys, which were $8.68 each. The keys needed to be cut and programmed. The local dealer would not return my call; I suspect because I had bought the keys elsewhere. The price of keys and remotes for your car may differ, but the keys that I got for that price were OEM. I found a local locksmith who could do it, and not all can, as the machine that they plug into your car to program is very expensive. There was only one locksmith in my county in Maine who could do it. He charged me $100.00 to do the cutting and programming for the 2 keys. Another locksmith who could do it gave me a price of $90.00 EACH. I didn't find my locksmith mentioned on the site on the paperwork that came with the keys, which was www.autolocksmithfinder.com. I Googled 'auto lock locksmith in Maine' and found others, including the one I used, that way. As mentioned above, it will be much less expensive than the dealer's price.