I would 'recommend' the RCA 2768i 300W total. Sells at Walmart for $137.00 5CD changer, Ipod dock and charger; digital Stereo Radio... I own one, and have been using it since slightly before Aug 1st /09 virtually 24x7 - and have experienced no problems whatsoever. (the first unit we purchased was BROKE, and did NOT function - at all.) Returned, and next works just fine thank you... Has two 'large' speakers attached with wire. If wire is to short - you can easily add some... Since this is a 'compact' stereo - the unit does not include any type of Balance control (left/right) for the speakers. Also - if it was on 'radio' when you turned it off - when you turn it on - it will be on FM radio... doesn't matter if you were listening to an AM station... If you mute it - and change source (radio to cd) - the mute will auto cancel out... All radio presets are just one continuous... so you can change quickly from AM to FM as you flip up your Radio presets. 32 presets total. Separate Aux input; Ipod input, etc. You can control your Ipod selection from the Remote (remote doesn't include batteries (2AAA)) (I don't own an ipod). The cd changer can hold 5 cds. You can play all at once, or only tell it to play 1,3 & 5; or tell it to play only cd4 Or tell it to play only 1 cd. Or only have 1 cd in it... You can tell it to play a bunch of titles all divided up between cd's... You can have it repeat 1 track or 1 cd; or all cd's... When the CD player changes track - there is a slight quick chirp. Laser moving or something. Doesn't bother me... it did bother someone else quite a lot - who returned it to Walmart. (She reviewed it.) The volume goes quite high, but I'm not one to overload or clip audio. Has RCA input plugs, headphone out... And has a 1 year warranty - parts and labor. Some people have panned it, saying RCA customer service is junk. Don't know about that. I listen to scripture a lot, and I have literally had it on for almost 24x7 since purchased just before August. No problems. I left a review on it after a week - at Walmart. For the price - I find this unit hard to beat. Keeps your presets if power goes out... Also has a sleep timer - for if you want to listen to some stuff - but have it shut off automatically later on... Some of the spec's at Walmart are messed. This is not a 500W unit;; and it does not play DVD's etc. It is a stereo... not a movie or picture player Hope this helps. Here is a link that might be useful: RCA unit at Walmart RS2768I

DavidAndKasie is correct. Heat pumps CAN be set back (turned down) effectively with a setback thermostat that has smart recovery. First, since you say that you don't understand much about how heat pumps work, let's cover that. A heat pump basically is the same as an ordinary airconditioner, with the addition of a reversing valve that changes its functioning to HEAT the indoors instead of cooling. Air conditioners don't so much MAKE cold as they MOVE heat from one place to another. In cooling mode, heat is moved from inside to outside. That's the hot air you feel blowing from the unit outside (the inside blows cool air). In heating mode, the unit picks up heat from outside and moves it IN (the outside unit blows COLD air, the inside WARM). There technically is heat in the air (or an object) down to scientific absolute zero (-459.67F) when molecular motion stops. It's cheaper from an electric energy expenditure point-of-view to MOVE heat than to CREATE heat. Thus heat pumps are cheaper to operate electrically than glowing-red heating elements. However, when the outdoor temperature drops, particularly to the point of ice/frosting, it's harder for the heat pump to pick up the heat and move it inside. So all heat pump system have an auxiliary heat source, typically standard electric heating elements, that activate as needed when it can't maintain the desired indoor temperature without help. This is called the "balance point" -- the point at which the heat pump can't move heat in fast enough from outside to counteract the heat loss that's occurring through doors, windows, walls, etc. Every system and house is different in that respect. The indoor temp drops below the setpoint (thermostat set on 70°F, room temp is 68°F for example), and a 2nd pair of contacts trigger in the thermostat which turns on the heating elements. Electronic thermostats may also do this based on time. If the system can't reach the setpoint (70°F) within a specific time period, or the thermostat senses that the indoor temperature isn't increasing or isn't increasing fast enough, the elements turn on. Of course, the heating elements pull a lot more electricity and aren't as efficient as the heat pump. So the trick after a setback (or having turned the system completely off) is to raise the temperature SLOWLY so the heating elements DON'T turn on. Electronic setback thermostats designed for heat pumps do this automatically. The computer figures out how soon to start the recovery process so it can raise the temp slowly and hit the target at the specified time without using the auxiliary elements (or minimizing use of them). It may take a few cycles for the computer to "learn" the characteristics of a particular system and get the timing right. You can also do it manually, but you have to PAY ATTENTION and not raise the temp too fast or too high at a time. This may take a couple hours at lower outdoor temps. Beware also that if the outdoor temp is well below the aforementioned "balance point" the system may NOT be able to recover the desired indoor temp at all without use of the auxiliary heating elements. Another aspect of heat pumps that you should know about is defrosting. As mentioned earlier, the outdoor unit in heating mode is basically cooling the outside. During some conditions, particularly wet/freezing weather, the coils can ice-up, like a food freezer that needs defrosting. Air can't blow through the coils when they're clogged with ice, so like a freezer they must be defrosted. The system does that by switching back to AIR CONDITIONING mode for a few mins so the outside coils get warm and melt the ice. Now remember that when running as an air conditioner, the system blows COLD air inside the house. During defrost, the auxiliary heating elements turn on, NOT for the purpose of melting the ice on the coils outside, but to warm up the cold air that would otherwise be blowing in the house. There's no way to prevent defrost from happening, the system does that automatically as needed. Some people say that if the outdoor temp is so low for an extended period that the system is running continuously, the outdoor unit is repeatedly icing over and defrosting, then it's best to set the thermostat to Emergency Heat, which shuts off the heat pump and runs ONLY the heating elements ... since they're being used a lot anyway during the frequent defrost cycles.

Tell us the make and model of the breakers. That may indicate that the panel was swapped after the house was initially built. The condition is dangerous for multiple reasons. When I have found this problem, it often was that two circuits went to a wall box and got tied together. In cases like this both circuits feeding that fixture(s) must be on the same pole of the service in order not to create a dead short circuit. Find and discontinue the interconnection.

That could be drought stress or fertilizer burn. skuiiy: We bought the plant with the shown plastic pot and kept it in there since it seemed to be doing well & producing flowers and fruit. A plant from the nursery producing fruit is often doing so because it's stressed. When tomatoes are stressed, they fruit because the plant rushes to reproduce before it dies. So assuming it's happy because it's fruiting could be incorrect. Even if the pot is OK now, it won't be much longer unless that plant is a dwarf or small determinate. skuiiy: -Gave it liquid fertilizer. -Added about a spoonful of epsom salt to the soil/mulch mix it's in and mixed it in a bit. Epsom salt is really only necessary if the plant has a magnesium deficiency. If not, it could cause problems. Also, it's possible you've given the plant too much fertilizer, which can manifest as leaf burn skuiiy: now I'm watering(about 2 cups of tap water, instead of just 1)every other day starting today to see how that goes. First: Pot it in a much larger container. Gently knock off as much of the current potting mix as possible so that almost all of the mix is fresh, as this will help correct the problem if nitrogen burn is the problem. Use a normal, fluffy, well-draining potting mix, not a mix advertised as moisture-retaining, and not anything labeled as "garden soil". Mix water into the mix well before putting it in the pot, as peat-based mixes can initially repel water if they're dry. Second: Don't measure your water or water on a set schedule. To determine when to water, stick your finger down into the mix a couple inches. If it's dry, water and water very deeply, until the water is running freely out of the bottom of the pot. If it's still wet a couple inches down under the surface, hold off. In your climate, when it gets hot, don't be surprised if you have to water daily. As for fertilizer, you can give the plant a dose according to instructions once a week or every two weeks (depends on how frequently you have to water), or you can water at very dilute strength with every watering (dilute more the more frequently you have to water).