Oceanna, I also live in Western Washington. I live just outside of Duvall in the woods on the side of a mountain. I have blackberries!!! I feel your pain. I am also sorry to tell you this: The cross bow will work but to a limited degree and it is pretty pricy for the amount you have to kill. The goats will not eat the older woodier stuff, they prefer the younger stuff. They will also eat your garden if they get half a chance. The goats still leave the root systems which will regrow with vigor. Nothing you do with a chain link fence will stop the blackberries. A high cement block wall will hold them back, some. Everywhere a branch touches down it will root. And those babies get long. Second and insideously is the bird factor. They drop the seeds. ugh! The only thing you can do that will have any effect is to cut them back and then dig out the roots. This is a major pain in the butt but it will work. You need to cut down as wide a swath of them as you can and dig the base of the plants out. Only if you do this will you stand a chance of those beautiful roses on your fence line. Trust me it it worth the trouble of doing. I have had to do it in several areas not to mention that I still have 2 acres of the beast that need to be destroyed. I'm looking to get a track hoe in here to dig it all out.

As John_G says, it takes the factory scan tool to sort out problems at these low levels in the code. However, at this point, I would not rule out a loose connection behind the dash, say a ground connection. If the engine has been running ok and the transmission shifting properly, the problem may lie in the connections between the engine controller and the dash. If everything is ok from cold start, and then fails after the temperature under the hood rises, suspect a temperature sensitive item under the hood, or near the hot air ducts. You could exercise the connector to the engine controller. Disconnect the battery ground cable, and then disconnect the large, multi-pin connector to the controller. Look carefully at the condition of the pins. Plug the conector back in and wiggle it in and out a few times before pushing it home. Likely, it was held in with a screw. Re-attach the screw and drive home. Be careful of the amount of tightening torque. Consult the repair manual. This screw needs only to be tight enough to draw the connector together and enough tightening torque to keep it from coming loose. Re-attach the battery cable and try it out.

dnt1 said" john g you have gotten yourself stuck on the wrong area with your business. You have to show people something besides good work and here it is. People dont care how much you know until they know how much you care. Customer service good listening skills and lots of empathy man, now get on it and get that business growing as it should." Well if it was really only that easy. I repaired a Jeep Cherokee that had bounced around between 5 shops/techs. The problem surfaced alledgedly right after a major transmission replacement. The symptom was a surging/high idle speed, missfire/cutout when driving. The AC was inoperative, the clutch would not engage. The customer had already tried adding refrigerant with sealer himself, without gages. Plus the 4WD display was blank. The soultion was the computer had failed, but before the computer could be replaced, every possible reason that something on the car could be causing the computers microprocessor to continually reset had to be explored, and proven to NOT exist. Plus I also had to be sure that something else on the data bus on the car was not causing the reset to occur. There are no training manuals anywhere, nor is there service information/repair manuals written at this level. Guys like me are totally on our own with this stuff, and we often spend two times as much time studying the system at home to make each diagnostic move faster, and in analyzing the results to make sure we haven't overlooked something which would result in a customer potentially buying a part they do not need. I had well over eight hours time in this car, and ultimately billed three. The result had everything working, and I did notice some belt squeal, it was a newer, and properly tightened (within tension specs) serpentine belt. Now do you think this guy appreciated what I did? I did not sell any unneeded parts or service and I even cut him a significant break on the real amount of time required to do that. For my trouble I can tell you that I have 80% of the fuel injection wiring diagram memorized for a 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee. That's how close I had to study this system to be positive I was making the correct call. He went out to the Jeep after paying his bill, five minutes later he came back in and wanted me to go outside and hear something. He was concerned about the belt "chirping" when the AC was turned on. He was complaining that it did not do it before, well of course it didn't, the AC had not worked in the month and a half they had been fighting this. I told him shut the engine off, and went inside and got my laptop, and my belt tension gage. I showed him the spec, then I measured the tension on the belt and showed him it was in spec. The I showed him how the belt that was on the Jeep was one of the discount aftermarket replacement ones, that does not actually fit the pulleys correctly. He still insisted that I do something, and at that point I said fine, I'll take it to the maximum tension allowed on the spec, for a fee. At that point he balked, and said it's not adjustable, it has a spring tensioner, which I really got a laugh out of, because I asked him to show it to me. Then I showed him how the belt adjusted with the idler that is just below and inside of the power steering pump. I then asked him, who put this belt on? He said it was another shop he had dealt with recently, and I asked him why not go back to them and have them deal with it? His reply? Because he didn't pay them for it. I didn't press him for details at this point, but one way or another he managed to coerce them into doing it for free, or flat out managed to rip them off somehow. In the end, he paid me to adjust the belt. I refused to touch the rest of the AC system at all, because the sealers that he added have the potential of damaging my AC recovery/recharge equipment, and I'm not ready to have to spend another $4,000 on a new one. I also told him to the best that I could be sure, the transmission shop had nothing to do with the failure of the computer. Three days later the transmission shop involved called me up. He had not seen this guy and was glad that I had straightened his Jeep out. He was having trouble with a Ford tranny he had rebuilt and needed me to help him figure out what was wrong. He had one dissapointing thing to say. No matter what the outcome was, this guy with the Jeep would bad mouth me about fixing his car. It's just the way the guy is..........

It seems that you have electrical intermittent connections. It will take a lot of sleuthing to sort things out. Start by becomming familar with how your dash and instrument panel is constructed and where the electriacal connections are located. A good repair manual with electrical diagams is a must. A few hints: The instruments are powered by a regulated voltage, usually around 5 volts. This is a vey low voltage and tough to keep relaible. Typical instruments powered by this supply are tachometer, speedometer, temperature gage, oil pressure gage, and fuel level. If the tach and speedo quits a the same tine, suspect the connector to the instrument panel. You probably have a printed circuit instrument panel that is removeable for replacing its lamps. It may plug into a connector and this may be a flimsy printed circuit affair. This a common source for problems. A poor ground to the panel can affect a combination of items, sometimes in unexpecterd ways. I had one that affected the operation of the turn signal lamps. Corroded conectors in the various fuse and relay panels will casue problems. Three out of four of your radio speakers have quit. Examine the circuit diagram and look for connections that are common to these failed items. There is always the possibility that the radio has failed and the speaker system is ok. If there is an aluminum conductor in the wiring harness suspect it. Trouble points are where aluminum comes into contact with a dissimilar metal. For example, in one of my GM cars, there was an 8 conductor flat cable that was part of the body wiring harness. One wire was aluminum and the other 7 were copper. The aluminum wire was in the fuel gage circuit. Severe corrosion developed at a connector in the trunk where the aluminum lead mated to the copper lead of the tank sensor. I fear that you may have a group of corrosion related circuit problems. Happy hunting.