The igniter has one lead, with two piggy backed wires, one to coil, the other with a quick disconnect with that wire going to key switch. There are two terminals on the key switch regarding ignition. One wire is from ground, the other to igniter. When key is in the off position, the ground goes to the igniter, with key in run or start, the ground to igniter is no longer there. When testing the new igniter, it was screwed onto clean surface of the block, the coil is also clean with no rust. The coil was gapped to .012 according to the specifications in the Kawaski engine manual. I can only see two possibilities of the problem, I received a brand new defective igniter, or the coil is bad since the plug is brand new and I tried several I had lying around. Was so desperate I tried the test again in the shed at night with the lights off, not even a hint of spark. I figure if I disconnect the fast disconnect wire coming from the igniter to the ignition switch this would bypass the safety features present. The only switch that could be defective is the seat switch, that and only that will cut the engine off. The seat switch functions properly. The other two safety switches are hooked up to the starting system, if in gear or blade engaged, the starter will not turn. Wire harness shows no continuity to ground so that would rule a short out. I'm just about ready to take a sledge hammer to this Deere. They say "Nothing runs like a Deere", well not this Deere, it's a bear to work on, even something simple as an oil change they make complicated.

"Stupid people will always manage to break something or hurt themselves or someone else." For every moron out there that rides around with their baby on their lap there are plenty of smart people that occasionally make mistakes. Personally I sometimes let my mind wander and maybe that label or that lever I pull is enough to keep my brain on track. Maybe I should have one of you perfect people that never make a mistake operate my OPE to save me and my family from my imperfect self. Go ahead and take off the switches, levers and labels and let all the stupid people chop themselves up so they don't polute your perfect gene pool.

When you speak of Camaros, the 69 is usually the one folks really go for. One reason is there were more 69's made than any other year. They were in production for a year and a half while GM tooled up for the 70 and the huge body style change from 69 to 70. The 1970 is technically the 70.5 but most no one ever refers to it as such any more. There is also the mild difference in taste mentioned in the above post. The 69 is a little longer, flatter looking, than the 67 and 68 was. Someone mentioned trying to find a car from the SW as well to keep the rust issue down. That is great advice also. My 67 came from Georgia and I have a pretty decent body on mine, the body was my biggest concern. If you are looking for a driver and not a numbers matching car, then you can always pick up a crate engine and drop in. All F Bodies (Camaros and Firebirds) have some common rust areas that are more susceptiable to rust. Look carefully at the area around the back glass, lower front quarter pannels and lower portion of the rear quarter pannels. You will most likely find some metal repair, bondo or rust in those places. As for handling and stopping, many are converting Corvette disc brake systems now to put on their 1st generation F Body cars. There are also a ton of suspension upgrades you can do to make the car drive and handle much more like a modern car. On my 67 Camaro, I'm most likely going to do a brake upgrade in the future, but I personally like the raw, performance feel of the original type of suspension and handling. I can go on for hours on this subject, they others are giving good advice on this as well. Bottom line, do your home work, and make sure to fatten up your bank account because this isn't a cheap hobby by any means. It does help to find a club as well. You can get lots of advice, some education on repairs and the cars as well. Plus having a couple of buddys help with the heavy work involved is something invaluable! I'm President of a NC/SC car club that is GM only. Feel free to contact me if you have any other questions. I'm always glad to help a fellow car enthusist who is looking to learn!

Sorry I guess I should have investigated this a little more. I finally found the answer at Geniedoor.com Hopefully this info will help someone with the same problem. And it worked the first time! Homelink in-car programming instructions: To program a built-in-car transmitter to a rolling code garage door opener (Genie rolling code is called Intellicode, Liftmaster/Sears is called Security plus), you should take the following steps. Clear out anything previously programmed into the in-car system from the factory by holding down on the 2-outside buttons simultaneously, until the in-car red light starts flashing rapidly. This may take up to a minute. (In a few cases, some make cars require the keys to be in the ignition, or the car motor must be running, or the car door must be shut) Decide which button you want to make to be your in-car garage door transmitter. Hold your transmitter up near the selected button, pressing both the garage door remote and the selected in-car transmitter button simultaneously. Hold down on the buttons until the in-car, red light flashes rapidly. this sets the in-car transmitter to be your garage door openers make transmitter, but you are not done. You now need to make this in-car transmitter your personal transmitter. Go to the Learn Button on your garage door opener. The button is usually right next to the area the floppy antenna is connected to the motor head. With Genie it is most often behind the light lens, and flashes red when pressed. With Sears or Liftmaster (Chamberlain) it is near, or part of, the terminal screw board. Press this learn button momentarily. A red light should start to flash or an amber light come on and stay lit. Go back to the in-car transmitter button you programmed and press this button 3 or 4 times, or until the door starts moving. This should set your in-car transmitter to your garage door opener. Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.geniedoor.com/content/troubleshooting-guides.htm