The only information that I've got is for the 1992, 2.3 L engine in the Ford Topaz. (It's probably the same basic layout as for the pickup truck.) So, with this warning, here's the information for the car engine. There should be two timing marks: one on the crank grear and one on the cam gear. These are punch or drill point marks. Both gears are keyed to their shafts. There is an inside and outside face for the gears. The timing marks face to the outside. The chain will have to be placed on the gears before sliding the gears onto the shafts. This may not be easy since one or both of these gears may be press fits. If you encounter a press fit, just take it easy and press each part a little at time while keeping the chain aligned. The object is to avoid damage to the chain. The keyway on the cam shaft points toward the crank. The key on the crank points straight up (and not toward the cam shaft). After the chain and sprockets are in place, the timing marks (on the sprockets) should point toward each other and be in-line with the center-line of the cam shaft and crank. (The crank key will not be on this line.) Slowly rotate the engine by hand to check for interference with a valve. If all seems ok, then check the rotor position in the distributor. It should be ok since it was not removed, but here's the check anyway. With piston no.1 at top-dead-center (TDC) and on the compression stroke (both intake and exahust valves closed), the rotor in the distriburor should point toward the electrode (in the cap) for No. 1 sparkplug. Hopefully, none of the pistons hit a valve when the chain broke. While the timing chain cover is off, it might be a good idea to flush out the oil pan to remove any debris therein, like broken chain parts. Tiny pieces probably won't cause a problem so long as these are too large to pass by the oil pump intake screen. However, larger pieces may get bounced about and caught between close passing moving parts. You can use used engine oil as a flush fluid, or a mild cleaner such as kerosene.

Sorry for the confusion I caused with the new thread! The house is a 2 story colonial - 2,052 square feet plus a partially finished basement. How could I tell if the equipment was short cycling? I have been pretty comfortable with the exception of the second floor is sometimes hotter than the first floor in the summer- mostly addressed with the attic fan. I would not want to spend a lot of money to fix that. It has been a cool summer and not noticeable this year. That is why at least the one contractor that I asked did not think a two stage AC would be a good idea in this house. And why a 3 ton might be a better idea ��" although Manual J apparently says 2.5 ton (100% of cooling load ��" 26389 Btuh), if I understood what I read. Tigerdunes ��" what is a DF system (which you said you would not recommend)? Mike ��" I prefer leather seats in my cars! I was not sure I would actually be any more comfortable for the extra bucks since the rest of the house is from 1986. What should a contractor do to evaluate the ducts (if anything)? The ducts are not insulated as far as I can tell ��" just sheet metal. The house was built in 1986 with a heat pump system only. I converted to gas in 1996 ��" and I was thrilled to be able to do that. I calculated the cost of a therm by dividing therms used by total cost of gas on my bill ��" cost $1.28 per therm. I pay $13/month as a gas delivery charge whether I use any gas or not. I use about 560 therms/year (heating and cook top only). Using the same method, my total cost per kWh is $0.14 and I use about 19,000 kWh/year (everything else ��" hot water and clothes dryer, lights, etc). Contractor #1 did a Manual J and gave me the written report on software letter head (Wrightsoft Right J Mobile). Contractor #2 did not give me the Manual J but told me that he did it and it shows a total cooling load on the house using R19 insulation in my attic at 22,744 Btu's and a total cooling load at 21,750 using R30 insulation in the attic ��" which is not the same as the Manual J that I have in writing from Contractor #1??? According to Contractor #2, the Gold XI 2.5 ton A/C total cooling load at 95 degree outside temperature and 75 degree inside temperature is 24,400 Btu's. He said he could come back and take a closer look at the house if I would like. His original proposal has a 2.5 ton AC. Here is the updated pricing from Contractor #2: Proposal #1 - Supply and install an American Standard Gold ZM-80,000 Btu’s, 97% AFUE efficiency gas furnace and an American Standard Gold XI- 16 SEER 3 ton AC unit: AC AS 4A7A6036H1, single stage AC Furnace AS AUH2B080A9V3, 2 stage variable speed Coil AS 4TXCB036BC3 cooling coil. Thermostat AS digital programmable thermostat. Net cost to me $6,475.00 Proposal #2 - Supply and install an American Standard Platinum ZV-80,000 Btu’s, 96.7% AFUE efficiency gas furnace and an American Standard Platinum ZM- 16.25 SEER 3 AC unit: AC AS 4A7A7036A1- 2 stage Furnace AS AUHM1B080ACV3 ��" 2 stage variable speed Coil AS model 4TNCB036AC3 cooling coil Thermostat Honeywell Prestige 2.0 digital programmable Net cost to me: $7,925.00 Contractor #3 did not do a Manual J. I asked him for a price for the same Carrier equipment as Contractor #1 anyway. He said he was not able to do that because he did not inspect the work for an Infinity system. He would need to come back and look at the job to provide a price for the Infinity systems. That makes no sense to me because how could he give me a price on this system which was in his original proposal that contained the $4300 system? I had not included this option in my original post because it seemed like not a lot of bang for the extra bucks. AC Carrier Infinity 21 series two-stage 24ANB136A003 with a 3.0 ton cooling capacity Furnace Carrier Infinity 98 modulating gas furnace 59MN7080V17-14 Coil Carrier Infinity all aluminum N series vertical evaporator coil with an insulated jacket CNVP3717ALA with a 3.5 ton cooling capacity Thermostat Carrier Infinity touch series WiFi SYSTXCCITNO1A Mechanical Air Cleaner: model #:EZXCABCC1020 Power fan humidifier model #: HUMCCSFP1016 Net cost to me after rebates and discounts: $8,465.00 So one stage or 2 stage AC? 2.5 or 3 ton unit? Carrier or American Standard? Contractor 1 (5 year labor warranty through him), Contractor 2 (I think the 2 stage AC option might not be a good idea - 2 year labor ��" not sure if that is AS or him), or Contractor 3? What do you think of the Carrier 10 year labor warranty through Carrier? And thanks for your input! There were fewer choices 18 years ago. I am glad I am not sitting here with no heat doing this.

Zip Code 21234 is a Maryland zip. I am 21009 in Bel Air. FYI: A Carrier 21 SEER is not actually 21 SEER. Don't be fooled by the marketing bullsh%t. You should consider a heat pump w/gas furnace supplimentary heat (dual fuel or hybrid). You say it is not cost effective, but have you run the numbers? What is the delivered price of natural gas per therm? Post the model numbers of the heat pump condenser (or a/c condenser), matching indoor coil, and furnace, and we will provide the true SEER, EER, and HSPF from the American Refrigeration Institute. Good luck.

Good for you for doing the math. Let me throw a few issues into your calculations either for you or others that might be reading: 1. Depending on your climate and other factors, such as hot water use, the cost to heat your house is a significant portion of your bill but not the entire gas bill. Be sure you try to isolate the heating portion of the bill. 2. Your gas bill may include a "Delivery and services" charge that is constant, regardless of the amount of gas you use. If that's the case, remove that from your calculation. 3. Although there is some fluctuation now, the trend in energy prices will be up over the life of the furnace. 4. Take into account financing costs and opportunity costs. The money that you are talking about may have better payback if it was used to insulate or seal the duct work, for example. 5. In your case, the insulation in the attic will reduce your total gas bill and the break even will be lower than the $1200 that you estimate. Bottom line is that it usually doesn't make sense to go from 92% to 95% unless you can capture the tax credits. There can be a comfort benefit with multi-stage furnaces and variable speed blowers.