Old topic but wanted to share my input. I'm growing hydroponic tomatoes (various strains) at university in a lab setting (indoors under HID lights) and outdoors in a greenhouse. In one of my greenhouse NFT systems, i recently had a similar problem on 1 tomato plant (total 9 plants that share the same res and tubes). But im gonna try to diagnose your issue by mentioning what others missed out on. 1 major cause of leaf curl is compaction of root system (i.e. roots are compressed or dont have enough space to expand). This risk is exacerbated in hydroponic systems that use tubes. This was the problem i had and had to replace tubes with square tubings that have a liftable top. Once you have access to roots, you must seperate them strand by strand (i.e. so they arent sticking together). In your setup, this risk will further be exacerbated because you filled the entire pvc tube with hydroton (right?). Remove hydroton from tube and place the plant in a net cup with hydroton. Nitrogen burns usually cause browning/yellowing of leaves (similar to sun/heat burn) and not purpling. Test your solution for each chemical if possible, or use a commonly employed aggregated measuring device that shows total concentration in ppm (dont let it exceed 2500). In my system, only one plant was affected. Coincidentally, it was the largest of all plants with the most root mass. I let another normal one grow to its size to see whether it would undergo the same problem, and it did. Viral and bacterial infections that cause leaf roll usually cause it to roll up. Same with the physiological roll. If your leafs roll down AND if your stems bend, this is caused by a diminishing turgor pressure (read: not enough water reaching afflicted area). Mist several times when lights are off (no photosysnthesis) and observe increasing turgor pressure (unbending). Or, untangle roots and remove hydroton from from pipes. I tested various growing methods including fully and partially submerged roots. They all work but a submerged root cannot intake oxygen; it has to borrow oxygen from another part of the plant (i.e. a root part that isnt submerged or above ground stem). This requires energy for transportion and isnt the most efficient (optimal) way for growth and cellular processes. Lastly, an airstone in the reservoir is useless unless the reservoir is completely airtight all the way up to the plant holes. Better to keep small airstones in the pipes right under the plant roots. Those that say aerating the res prevents bacterial development.. is false. If you dont have air in res, you will get anaerobic bacteria (they grow/accumulate slowly but acidify the solution); if you have air in res, you get aerobic bacteria (not acidifying but grow extremely fast). Most bacteria prefer aerobic environments for optimum growth.

5000lb? Thats suprising, but I believe you. A 4.6l is just enough for a car the size of an Expedition let alone be towing with it, and yes the 5.4l would make a huge difference in this case. My Explorer has the towing package on it and is rated to tow 7000! So at 3800, I'm just over 1/2 of what it's rated for and pulling the trailer, I can actually out accelerate my 94 Ranger with a 3.0l. I wish I knew more about those '04 Hemi's to give you some better advice, but typically they would mostly still be under warranty so I have not had much exposure to them for servicing. It does stike me as odd that these things are sitting this long unsold. Plus, I remember seeing reports about some tranny issues when towing with the Ram trucks that had to do with lubrication of the hard parts. (Planet assemblies) I spent a few minutes looking for that information exactly but came up empty. That makes it quite likely that I could be thinking of models that are a couple years older. Best bet is to ask the tranny guy at the dealership how these have been holding up, and if there is anything he recommends be added, such as an additional cooler etc.

Well, I had it checked out and was told that the dvd player will need to be replaced - will be $89+tax. My hubby had paid for it in Dec 2009 as an anniversary gift, but he had his dad pick it up for him (Walmart), and of course, didn't get an extended warranty. Doesn't that just figure?! Also, within the last 2 weeks, I had to purchase a replacement adapter (to the tune of $70) as, of course, the other one quit working. When it rains it pours...I wonder what will be next.

Sorry to have to post this here; I am still unable to register at Landzdown. If someone could post this over there, I'd appreciate it very much. I completed the instructions, and had just copied the combofix log and was about to post it here when the screen suddenly went black and then the blue screen came on. It says: A Problem has been detected and windows has been shut down to prevent damage to your computer. BAD_POOL-CALLER If this is the first time you've seen this stop error screen, restart your computer. If this screen appears again, follow these steps: Check to make sure any new hardware or softwar is properly installed. If this is a new installation, ask your hardware or software manufacturer for any windows jupdates you might need. If problems continue, disable or remove any newly installed hardware or software. Disable BIOS memory options such as caching or shadowing. If you need to use safe mode to remove or disable components, restart your computer, press F to select Advanced Strtup Options, and then select safe mode. Technical information: *** STOP: 0x000000c2 (0x00000007 , 0x00000CD4 , 0x000016EB, 0x81795430) Beginning dump of physical memory Physical memory dump complete. Contact your system administrator or technical support group for further assistance. I just typed all of that here (I'm on a different computer) and the blue screen is still up, and the computer is making "working" noise. Should I just turn the power off? I have no idea what to do now. Thanks, Sue