I know that Crinums can be grown as house plants - like Amaryllis/Hippeastrum. If you can plant them up in 9L/2gall. buckets and give them care they will probably come through the shift, though it might take them a year or so to settle in again. If you're talking about the Irises with rhizomes (Bearded), suggest you check on that forum to see what other Iris fans have done in similar circumstances. Taking young growth with an active root system and trimming back to a fan would certainly reduce the impact. I think I would choose a fairly shallow container if your Irises need a good baking to do well the following year. The Pacific Coast and Louisiana irises would need different care again. If you're moving something like I gracilipes, though, an azalea pot might be best, with a good autumn treat of leaf mould over the root system. Those particular Irises do NOT appreciate lots of sun! Do ask the folk over at the Iris forum and put your mind at peace on this aspect.

Keep it well drained. I notice you have the flower pot in another pot. Make sure the flower pot has a hole in the bottom and that it is open. Then put some gravel under the flower pot so that water that comes out of the flower pot flows clear of the hole in the bottom. The hole in the bottom of the flower pot must me kept open to air. It looks like it could be repotted into a wider shallow pot (azalea pot). If you do repot, make sure you use azalea soil. It is acidic. If you can't get acidic soil, use a good garden soil and add powdered sulfur. For a liter of garden soil with a pH of 7.5 you would use 140 grams of sulfur to adjust the pH to 5.5 which is ideal for azaleas. (That would be 4.5 ounces of sulfur per quart of garden soil) The link at the bottom is an excellent description of how to keep florist azaleas alive. Here is a link that might be useful: Care of Greenhouse Azaleas

How lucky to find one! I wish we had some here on our coastal NJ property. Wikipedia has a nice piece on these little lizards - Indoor care is about halfway down the page. Here is a link that might be useful: Wikipedia on Five Lined Skink

That should be just fine -- I've kept a Parma in a pot for several years here in the hot, humid, sunny summers of Washington, DC. The more consistent shade you can give it the better (a larger plant would work well) and needless to say cloudy days are your best friend; be careful to water before it wilts too far without keeping the plant wet all of the time, and always be on the lookout for spider mite damage. If you see evidence of the mites, you'll need to spray the plants thoroughly (especially under all of the leaves), and hopefully you can obtain the correct horticultural spray oil (the summer type, which is even more ultra-refined than the winter version, which can harm plants when sprayed on foliage during the warm season). A second spray will need to be applied one week after the first to kill the newly-emerged hatchlings, and that should take care of the problem for a good while. This is a safe, non-toxic solution to the mites if they occur. I've often taken mine in and overwintered it in the refrigerator once it gets too cold outside (low 20s Fahrenheit over night seem to be their natural limit to avoid permanent damage without some protection), but I have also noticed that keeping the plant enclosed in plastic guards against the desiccation injury that I used to think was simple cold damage. Even putting it into a clear plastic bag with the top left partly open is much better than no protection at all; it's mostly important to maintain high humidity around the plant when the temperature drops significantly below freezing, and I believe this is precisely how cold frames keep the plants happy during the winter's coldest weather, in combination with the added warmth and protection of being rooted in the ground, of course. Stefan