The water question depends in part on your climate - a plant in Arizona needs more water and needs it more often than one in Florida! In general, keep the soil moist but not soggy, and change the water in the cup and leaf bases once a week; rainwater is best. Fertilizer is not needed. Light - an east window is good, if there is something like a gauze curtain; an unfiltered northern exposure would do. Avoid southern and western exposures unless they are in shade. Guzmanias appreciate a lot of humidity. The soil sounds OK - a fast draining, humusy soil is the best.

That should be just fine -- I've kept a Parma in a pot for several years here in the hot, humid, sunny summers of Washington, DC. The more consistent shade you can give it the better (a larger plant would work well) and needless to say cloudy days are your best friend; be careful to water before it wilts too far without keeping the plant wet all of the time, and always be on the lookout for spider mite damage. If you see evidence of the mites, you'll need to spray the plants thoroughly (especially under all of the leaves), and hopefully you can obtain the correct horticultural spray oil (the summer type, which is even more ultra-refined than the winter version, which can harm plants when sprayed on foliage during the warm season). A second spray will need to be applied one week after the first to kill the newly-emerged hatchlings, and that should take care of the problem for a good while. This is a safe, non-toxic solution to the mites if they occur. I've often taken mine in and overwintered it in the refrigerator once it gets too cold outside (low 20s Fahrenheit over night seem to be their natural limit to avoid permanent damage without some protection), but I have also noticed that keeping the plant enclosed in plastic guards against the desiccation injury that I used to think was simple cold damage. Even putting it into a clear plastic bag with the top left partly open is much better than no protection at all; it's mostly important to maintain high humidity around the plant when the temperature drops significantly below freezing, and I believe this is precisely how cold frames keep the plants happy during the winter's coldest weather, in combination with the added warmth and protection of being rooted in the ground, of course. Stefan

flowerlilies, Often people who work in garden centers don't really understand much about pests, diseases, and chemicals. You should ask first on the GW forum for the particular kind of plant. And don't believe the first poster who responds, because we can make mistakes too. Though, if we let a reply stand without further comments, that's probably a tacit approval. It's really important not to panic and apply a barrage of remedies before you have a good diagnosis. Also, when you post a question, it's important to give a general idea of where you live, because pests and diseases are regional, rainfall and winter damage can play a role, etc. For example, a diagnosis of scale insects on roses would be more likely if you are in Southern California, Hawaii, or Miami. But rose midge, suggested above, doesn't exist in those places. One thing I can say for certain, the purple spots with lighter centers are either cercospora spot or spot anthracnose, both fungal diseases that usually don't require control measures. Also, there may well be some spray damage, because homemade and "organic" sprays are rather likely to damage plants if not used carefully. Large purple smears are often the result of spray damage. What are you saying is wrong with the open mauve flower? If the grayish things are scale, they will scrape off easily with a fingernail.

Laura, if they were my trees, I would cut back just as you said..You don't have too since, you have them in a great mix, but if they were mine, I would stop all together and feel it out..You will get to know your trees and their needs depending on your light source, temps, and storage which is different for every one...Of course if your conditions for very healthy sturdy good growth is limited, I would stop all together...If you lived in a climate where there is more sunshine for longer periods than I, then that would dictate when to pull back or continue..Does that make sense? I have fiends that live in California, that must bring trees in winter, but they continue to fertilizer very lightly.. I have friends that grow theirs in a very big greenhouse will all day sun, and they continue to fertilize very lightly.. But, they all have something in common, pests, especially spider mites and scale...That is why I stop no matter what I am told to do, and it has prevented a host of problems for me) Have you ever thought of using Pro-TeKt with your Foliage Pro fertilizer solution? This product also helps your leaves to become bug and drought resistant while building up the cell walls....It, Enhances growth for stronger, hardier plants Builds stronger plant cell walls Increases heat, drought and cold tolerance Increases chlorophyll content for more photosynthesis Provides supplemental potassium and silicon