I can see you're going to do the core aeration, so here is some more advice. Since you have it you may as well use the heck out of it. The bermuda will survive no matter what, so drive that thing up and back, across and back, diagonal and back, and then the other diagonal and back. You need all the holes you can get. When you're finished, whether you use compost or not, then spray again with shampoo at a higher dose (6-10 ounces per 1,000 square feet. Then water it until you think you're going to fill in all the holes (you won't). But if you do fill the holes and it seems like it won't drain, then you have a bigger problem. I don't think your soil is compacted. Sure the heavy landscaping equipment drove over it but they are designed for landscaping. If you tried to compact the soil with that equipment it would be hard. You would have to start with soil that was completely saturated and drive over it until you sunk in and pushed all the air out of the soil. I'm sure that didn't happen. Most contractors will leave the job site at the first sign of sprinkles. If that still doesn't work, then Lou has alluded to another approach I have used successfully using a soaker hose. It is not what you might think, but it worked every time I tried it. I gave up on that approach once I learned about shampoo, but I certainly remember it.

Plug aeration and shampooing--pros and cons. First, they are tools/aids that are available to serve a purpose. Just because they are available doen't mean they need to be used. I own a hammer-drill but I don't go out once or twice a year and drill holes in my sidewalk. I also own a bottle of Clorox liquid bleach, but I don't add a cup every time I do laundry. Identify the problem, find a solution, and use the correct tool to impliment the solution. Plug aeration. Removing cores/plugs from the the soil. The machines typically available for homeowner use remove a plug either 5/8 or 3/4" in diameter from the top 3-4" of the soil Usually the spoon is fixed to and rotates on an axle. These aerators are available as self powered walk behind models or riding mower/garden tractor pull behind. In very rare circumstances, a cam style serator can be available for rental--but vary rarely.Professional aerators (used on golf courses) have a variety of spoon sizes available ranging from less than 1/2 to almost 1", both hollow and solid tine, and can remove plugs over 8" deep (some solid tines can penetrate 24") and are usually cam actuated. This discussion will be based on home-owner style aerators. Pros: Will reduce the effects of soil compaction, thatch, hydrophobic soils allowing the turf to thrive or at least, recover. With topdressing and possibly the addition of dragging/raking, ammendments (peat moss, lime, gypsum, OM, sand, etc). can be added into the root zone. Water and air can be intoduced deep into the soil. Improved drainage in areas of standing water. Rhizomes can be cut separating daughter plant from mother and inducing the daughter to "mother" its own daughters. Cons: To be effective, a minimum of 20 holes per sq ft is recommended. As most home-owner available aerators produce 5-10 holes per sq ft per pass, that can be a lot of passes to get a bare minimum of 20 per sq ft. Even at 20 holes, you are pulling up soil cores and creating holes in less than 10% of the soil (although the collapse of the hole and the pivot action of the spoon as it travels through the soil will effect a greater area than the area of the hole for purposes of counteracting compaction or for aerifying the soil.) The plugs look like a flock of geese reside at your home. The aerator just dosen't pull up soil, it pulls up turf that will not survive and the action of the spoons puts significant stress on the turf--this is an aggressive action, Unwanted plant seeds (both weed and grass) can be brought to the surface and germinate. Aeration can spread nutsedge and rhizomeous (sp?) weeds like poa triv, and quackgrass (if present, either don't aerate or avoid those areas when aerating.--while most unwanted plants can be controled with post or pre emergents, these have no cure short of "maybe" RU) It can be expensive, especially if you rent or hire it out. Shampooing (aka (erroneously) liquid aeration) The use of a surficant to reduce water surface tension and allow water to easily penetrate soil, to remain in soil voids for future use by the turf, and keep the soil moist to improve absorbtion of subsequent waterings. Shampoo is recommended as an inexpensive surficant source. Pros. It's cheap. It effects 100% of the soil surface. It's easy- can be applied with a hose-end sprayer. It's fast to apply and if it's the right tool, will show results within a couple of weeks. Nearly everyone who has tried it, reports improved screw-driver test results over extended periods. Creates very little stress or damage to turf/grass. No unsightly residue and your lawn smells like a baby. It may be the only action needed to resolve hydrophobic conditions not due to compaction. It's practicaly idiot proof. It's CHEAP. Cons: It's cheap and easy--you'll need to convince yourself it can work. People will ask why your lawn smells like shampoo. (Questions can be reduced dramatically if you have a doobie hang outa your mouth.) It does little if anything for compacted soil. It can be counter productive if used on sandy soil. Personally, I have had mixed results. I have sandy-silt soil. I applied 36oz over 3k sq ft over a 3 week period. (so above the recommended rate). I had inproved turf reults on the hill section, but completely lost the turf on the flat areas. It could be that there is the possiblity (contrary to what the advocates say) of over applying shampoo, or the surficant effect adversly increased the leaching of water through the already sandy soil, or it's possible that the surficant treated water when obsorbed by the turf plant has an adverse affect on capilary function or other biological processes. If used in modration, shampooing may have a positive affect on hydrophobic soil (due to crusting or microbial causes) with little to no adverse affects. At 20 cents per thousand plus the cost of water--there isn't much down side even if it fails to work. My philosophy is: Do whatever it takes to create healthy turf and roots. Strong prolific rooting will eventually take care of soil compaction, OM, and water penetration and retention issues.

I have hair that's fair-colored, naturally curly, & fine to medium textured, so it's easy to damage, & naturally dry in our hot & dry to hot & humid climate (central Arkansas). I was told I needed something with a lot of natural moisturizing ingredients, and I started buying TCB ethnic and Aussie Moist shampoos & conditioners again after using many different expensive salon brands for a year or more. But, I love Dove's new 2-in-1 shampoo/conditioner! It's great for when I stay with relatives & in-laws, or on the go (i.e. at gyms & public pools) all of which where showers & bathroom time are limited.

I bought some Orvus and used it once for something...I forget what. You don't use much of it as it is very difficult to get all the suds out. After years of sitting on the shelf, it got hard in the bottle so I threw it out. If I need to wash a quilt I think I will use Ivory flakes or Dreft for babies. They are very mild soaps.