Regarding Marvin, what do you mean by "can't get them direct"? These windows are not sitting in a warehouse; they are fabricated after the job is ordered so you would contact a dealer near you, usually a lumberyard, and carefully put an order together. The dealer, if a good one, can be a great help in ordering the right window models and features.

This ordering method is both the advantage and the disadvantage of Marvin windows. I try to get the windows designed before the work starts so the windows can be ordered as soon as possible. Check the current lead time.

The Marvin Ultimate Double-hung will probably be 15% more expensive than the Andersen Woodwright but you can't know without a proposal. Architects like Marvin because there is usually more flexibility in sizing and color.

Here is a link that might be useful: Marvin dealers

Definitely Marvin Integrity. We were steered away from Andersen at every turn. When we asked why, we were told they stood behind their product, unfortunately the product tended to fail so you were constantly dealing with having to get replacements. With cold long Montana winters, you don't need the extra headache of potentially having a window failure. I haven't investigated Sierra Pacific--they didn't supply our part of the country, but you may want to investigate what type of aluminum cladding is used (roll form or extruded) & how it is applied. Odds are if they went on and on about how the wood is treated against moisture, they are using roll form & it is applied directly to the wood allowing nowhere for water to go if it does get in behind the aluminum. I've posted a link to an old thread with a rundown on the different manufacturers and types of windows. Reading it will likely save you alot of time. Renovator8 is correct about how Marvin does business. It is likely that whoever you were dealing with has never dealt with Marvin before and has put a seed of doubt in your mind about being able to get them & their price point so you wouldn't look any further at pursuing that angle.

Here is a link that might be useful: Window Research Thread

I think most are familiar with the other brands, but I think Sierra Pacific is a good option. Their windows have extruded aluminum frame and sash. They offer ponderosa pine and douglas fir wood options (and three screen options, since you mentioned screens). I would ask the rep (and maybe even SP direct) if he can order and send/show you a sample window. I've done it before where there was no showroom or installation to see nearby. I've seen corner and full samples, and prefer full samples. The corner samples show the various layers at work, which is good if you know what you are looking at. You never know unless you ask, I think it is worth exploring. Good luck.

PS - You can also look at their website for more comparative, detailed information if you haven't already.

From what I know if Sierra Pacific they are a mid range window with mid range quality. I personally would not ever use Weathershield but out of the choices you have price I would use the 400 series Andersen's.What your saying about Marvin pricing is incorrect as they sell thru select window dealers only throughout the country, all at similar pricing structures and no where direct to the end user or contractor. Price wise they are expensive but hands down the best wood window commercially produced today.

You also get more window pro's advice by posting this in the windows forum.

We're very happy with our Sierra Pacific windows -- extruded aluminum outside, doug fir inside. The fit is fine (no drafts), the wood finished beautifully, and the rep was fantastic-- very patient as we sent update after update revising the details, until we were ready to say 'go'. My husband is an architect and has put these windows in high-end mountain homes where they're performing well. Their price was VERY competitive for completely custom wood/aluminum windows. By the way, we also have their french doors, which are better quality than our front door!

Just take anything a window salesman tells you bout the competition with a grain of salt. They will often have a standard specious answer to why their window is better.

I've never had any trouble with Andersen 400's (I prefer the 400 Woodwright, but the Tilt-Wash is pretty nice now that they have added deeper mullions) but you have to like one of the limited colors. If you like white but want applied mullions, the Marvin Integrity does not offer a spacer (unless they have added it recently).

The less expensive windows are often offered in limited sizes so it sometimes difficult to group them or align them.

Start with a list of desired features and sizes. That will eliminate some of the choices.

I don't sell windows, and have not for about 5 yrs. Only sharing what I have learned over time.

I was referring to the advice mentioned in the original post. All any of us can do is share what we have learned.

OK, my bad thought it was directed at me. And I agree that is why I try and share my knowledge

Thanks for all the help. I got a quote back for the Integrity and it came in at 16,500. Originally they told me they couldn't order them direct and had to go through a distributor which would make them come in higher but I think they were even surprised at the price. I think I'll go look at them tomorrow. I've read such good things about them.
Renovator8 - I'm not sure what you mean by applied mullions and a spacer?
Thanks everyone!
Heather

Just called with the Marvin Ultimate quote and it was the same as the Anderson. Now is the decision time!
Does anyone know if you have screen options with the Integrity? Or can tell me how the screen is. Thanks!
Heather

If its not too late, I would suggest choosing casements over double hung and sliders.

IMHO the Marvin Ultimate DH is a bit superior to the Andersen Woodwright (aluminum cladding vs PVC) and far superior to the Marvin Integrity DH (aluminum cladding vs fiberglass)

Mullions for modern double-glazed windows can be placed between the panes, snapped-onto the interior, or glued to both sides of the glass. The last option creates an odd looking open space between the outer and inner mullions and there is often an option available for a metal "spacer" strip in that space (between the glass panes) sometimes in different colors. To do that requires very good manufacturing tolerances so everything aligns when assembled.

Unless they have added this feature recently, Marvin doesn't offer the spacer for the Integrity fiberglass window due to manufacturing limitations and cost (they are competing with inexpensive vinyl windows). The mullion and spacer design they offer for the Ultimate DH looks very good.

I thought I was sold on the Integrity but went back to look at that, the Marvin Ultimate, and the Anderson Woodwright again. I also happened to look at the Anderson A series which i did like better than the Woodwright although at this point I don't think I will price it out. I'm assuming it will be more expensive than thw Woodwright which is already more than the Ultimate.
But Wow - the Ultimate is really nice. I liked the thick wood in the jamb. So I am now at a decision between the Marvin Integrity and the Marvin Ultimate. I like the looks of the Ultimate better but it is a $4000 difference. That's for just the standard windows, no grilles, extras, etc. Does anyone have any thoughts?
Thanks!
Heather

I prefer the Marvin Ultimate DH but I always put a cellular PVC sub-sill under it to thicken the too-thin aluminum sill nosing and also to help keep water from running back under the sill into the wall siding (caulking never works for long at that joint). Also, extending the sub-sill under the vertical jamb trim on each side of the window gives the window a traditional double-hung appearance.

Here is a link that might be useful: cellular PVC trim

Marvin Integrity...definitely! You won't regret it.

Marvin Integrity makes two windows: Wood-Ultrex and All-Ultrex. They also make an "Impact" model for high wind areas.

The Wood-Ultrex double-hung now offers a spacer bar between the simulated divided lite mullions (SDLS) and a full range of window sizes including Cottage Style (upper sash shorter than lower sash). Unfortunately, the sill nosing does not provide a proper drip or a siding groove that would prevent water from running back into the siding joint. (bottom of sill is dead level) I have seen failed caulking at this joint require expensive repairs. Andersen windows had this problem for decades but finally solved it with the 400 series. Marvin solved it long ago but forgot how to do it with the Ultimate series. Adding a cellular PVC sub-sill fixes the problem and creates a more handsome window but it adds to the cost.

Keeping water out of the house should be your first goal when choosing a window so the first thing to look at is the section through the sill, then look at how the installation fins are sealed to the frame and how the fins are sealed at the upper corners where they overlap (the second most common leak location).

We were all decided on using Marvin but then we saw Anderson's A series. We went with the Anderson A series. The exterior design is more attractive than the other Anderson series. Our distributor does both Anderson and Marvin. He has had very little problem with either. He did say that if an Anderson window hardware had a problem, that Anderson has replacement parts that go back 20 years or more even if a window is discontinued. Marvin does not. The price difference was 45K for the Anderson A and 54 for the Marvin. The A series was significantly more than the 400 series. The exterior colors of the A series is more limited than Marvin, but we were going with a cream, and the Anderson Canvas worked out fine. But when it came down to it, we wanted the synthetic material for low maintenance. We had a lot of rot problems with our new windows at our previous home and wanted to avoid the headache. We have simulated divided light and unpainted wood interiors. We also made sure our architect used standard window sizes when he planned the home. If you have speciality windows, I would go with Marvin. We also have a cheaper Anderson line at a vacation home for the past 15 years and have not had one problem.

I have gotten the hardware replaced on 20+ year old Marvin windows so someone is pulling your leg.

Why do you think a wood window clad with a synthetic (more likely wood + PVC) material would require less maintenance than one with an extruded aluminum cladding?

I can't even get a section detail of the A series from Andersen and they are not yet available in some parts of the US. I'll wait until they are fully committed to this new design before specifying it.

There are no standard window sizes. Some are sized from the sash opening (Andersen), some from former standard glass sizes (Marvin and many others) and some by even inch increments for the frame size (modern all-PVC, fiberglass and composite windows). What you see on the architect's drawing are "approximate" sizes that would need to be revised for some window choices but not for others which is why the window location are dimensioned to their center lines on the plans.

Here is a link to an earlier discussion

Here is a link that might be useful: window discussion