Just getting my bids in on my new construction and bid all 3 like you did....going with blown in fiberglass myself.

You are on the right track. Stick with the blown fiberglass. Foam almost never has a payback in walls. Spring for the exterior rigid and zip if you can. Zone 4 isn't a huge heating climate, but the xps will help your thermal bridge and tighten it up better. Best thing to focus on is air sealing. Your attic/ceiling is just as important as your walls, some think more. Reduce the amount of cans and if you do, use air tight and seal to the gyp. Also use air tight drywall.

The Oak Ridge National Laboratory's Zip Code calculator gives you a better read on cost effective insulation R values than Code minimums.

I've found exterior foam board and fg work well in a colder climate. ZIP R resembles Dow SIS but is new to the market and there are many questions.

I'd invest in foam sheathing to exterior
conventional insulation and air tight drywall
approach for walls. tape all seams of foam sheathing,
caulk or use sill seal under sole plates.

if your ducts are all in the crawlspace
then foam seal floors, and mastic seal
all ducts,return air, plenum connections, and supply
boxes to floor.

you should have a continuous vapor barrier on the
ground and ducts shouldn't be within 6" of vapor
barrier/ground.

will crawlspace be open or closed??

in the attic air seal all penetrations.
wire & plumbing penetrations, ICAT recessed
lights (insulation contact air tight) not IC
lights, seal oversized cuts for bath and stove
vent fans.
concentrate air sealing efforts at attic floor
to minimize air leakage into living space.
once air movement is stopped, then insulation
performs as designed.

invest in baffles in rafter bays to keep air
pathways clear.
chose one method of ventilating attic.
gable vents
soffit and rigde vents
of soffit and passive vents

best of luck.