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Bathroom insulation
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Posted by bostonhome (My Page) on Wed, Nov 18, 09 at 22:11
| What did you do for your bathroom insulation? I need to decide on insulation to reduce noise (water running through PVC pipes, toilet flushing, etc.) Will standard R-13 fiberglass insulation between studs do the trick? Or do I need to do something else? |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: Bathroom insulation
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My dad is an insulation contracter, he did foam insulation in our house and sprayed the back of the tub/shower units to reduce shower noise. We are also putting solidcore (hollowcore with fiber filler) doors on the bathrooms.
Hope this helps! |
RE: Bathroom insulation
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an unfaced friction fit will absorb sound better.
the paper facing on regular insulation will stop some of the sound absorption, so look for unfaced, it isn't much
more cost.
best of luck. |
RE: Bathroom insulation
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| If a waste pipe is in a 2x4 stud wall there is no room for insulation of any kind so it needs to be in a much thicker wall cavity. Thermal or acoustic insulation is not very effective in stopping sound transmission because it only absorbs sound in proportion to its thickness. It starts to be effective over 6 inches. At lesser thicknesses it essentially absorbs sound that bounces around in the cavity (passing through the insulation multiple times) before finding a crack. But to seriously reduce plumbing noise, in addition to insulation (cellulose and cotton seem to be good), the critical portion of the pipe should be cast iron, the wallboard should be doubled, the perimeter of the wallboard should be sealed, resilient channels should support the wallboard, the pipe supports should be resilient, and perhaps the pipe could be wrapped with Mass Loaded Vinyl. These techniques are cumulative so they could all be used. |
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