Have you already signed a contract with a builder? This discussion should take place before the build begins and before a contract has been signed.

high end..trane
mid range..bryant
entry level (builder's grade) Rheem/Ruud

as pointed out saving money on hvac is not the
best place to cut back.
this is the comfort and health of your home, just because
it doesn't 'show' doesn't mean it isn't important.

Get a good quality unit, a good install..including
a good install of ductwork and don't go with the
cheapest bid.

what you may save now will cost you in the future in
energy costs and other problems.
for efficiency the cost is upfront..savings is for the life
of the unit.

to properly size the unit a load calculation like manual J
should be done.
to design and size duct work manuals S & D.

to go back and fix a bad install is a major pita
most companies will charge extra.

make sure that ducts are sealed with mastics and not
just foil or duct tape.

best of luck with your build.

There are some very poor brands on the market so once you have steered away from those I would say the most important things to do are to choose an A/C contractor with a good reputation, one that will stand behind his work for years to come and will be able to guide you on the correct system for YOUR needs. For example do any members of your family have allergies or other respiratory problems, if so air purification must be considered carefully. What about zoning? This could have a huge impact on your energy bills as you can have zoning to heat and cool only the rooms you are using. SEER rating is a must to consider - this determines the efficiency of your system and so will greatly impact your energy bills. Insist on a load calculation and make sure you see it - this is where I would not compromise! This will ensure that the system is properly sized which is vital if you are to avoid mold and mildew or not being able to heat/cool properly. Ask how the ducts will be sealed eg tape and mastic, and make sure this is carried out as specified.
There is a lot to consider but your health and comfort for years to come depend on the right decisions now. I would strongly suggest that you invest sufficient money but more importantly sufficient time to get this right.

We made the decision to go with a high SEER, very reputable system with zoning and state of the art controls, and made economies elsewhere. This is a decision we have never had cause to regret. The units are very quiet, with 7 zones our home is cooled and heated on demand so we are always comfortable wherever we are in the house, regardless of whether there are 2 of us here or 10, and our energy bills are amazingly low!

Bryant is a very good brand and pretty much identical to Carrier, but it is important to compare equivalent models and to get it installed right.

You don't say if this is a heat pump or hydro-air system, nor do you mention the SEER rating, type of fan, etc. so people can only say things about whatever brands they have used even though the models might be entirely inappropriate for your situation.

I can tell you that a Bryant Evolution high efficiency hydro air system can be as close to state-of-the-art as anyone would want it to be if installed by the right contractor.

chisue - we are building on a 10 acre wood lot, but I think I like my trees and LOL , we only grow tomatoes.

mightyanvil - I think we are looking at the Bryant Evolution.

Much thanks to my GW friends

chisue - we are building on a 10 acre wood lot, but I think I like my trees and LOL , we only grow tomatoes.

mightyanvil - I think we are looking at the Bryant Evolution.

Much thanks to my GW friends

we replaced an old HVAC system last year with a new Trane XL14i heat pump and it instantly cut our electric bill over 2,000 kwh a MONTH. the savings on teh electric bill alone paid for the unit!

Small details..such as air tight drywall approach (ADA)
saves $$ in the long term which quickly offsets cost of
taping and floating these areas.

OP..recessed lights?? If so make sure that they are not only IC (insulation contact) but ICAT..insulation contact
air tight. Cost is minimal during building stages but retrofitting IC to AT costs $15 to $20 per light.

Best of luck and go with at least a 14 SEER..
have you looked at heat pumps instead of electric heating and a/c..big savings in wintertime.
Where are you located?

when heat pump is in heating mode it will at times
go into defrost mode..steam will rise from outdoor
condensing unit..normal operation.

the roi is short with heat pumps they will cost more
upfront..about $700 more than a/c with elec strip
payback is 2 years in my mild climate.
faster in climates with longer heating season.

SEER is for the a/c HSPF (heating seasonal performance factor) and COP (coefficient of performance) are
heat pump numbers to shop for.
Just as you want a 14 SEER, HSPF should be at least 7.5
ARI (american refrigeration institute) posts this info
on all matched units, once you have model numbers you
will be able to check and see what exactly you are
bidding.

this is not detailed information, just the headlines
as you collect bids ask each company to explain to you
what they are bidding. sometimes it is difficult to
compare bids when the same efficiency units or same
types of units are not the same.

best of luck!

(and be sure to tell your sheetrock crew that you are
not installing moldings so that this area will be taped)

If I go with the other HVAC (not heat pump) I should get a 14 SEER.

Sheetrock goes all the way to the ceiling , and it needs to be taped. (I will tell the crew I am not installing molding.)

Thanks for all the help - I'm learning ( with the help of GW friends)