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angela12345_gw

ROLLIE's How clean is Too Clean, Part 3

angela12345
13 years ago

This is a repeat post of one from several years back by a long time poster, builder, and gardenweb member: Rollie. I thought it was a brilliant idea and wanted to share with all you new builders . . .

2004 thread from the Internet Archive Wayback Machine - http://www.archive.org/web/web.php

http://web.archive.org/web/20041211181322/ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/build/msg1110381520518.html

I added pictures & some descriptions linked from Rollie's website "Delores House" http://imageevent.com/okoboji_images/deloreshouse

How clean is too clean, Part 2

Posted by Rollie (My Page) on Wed, Nov 3, 04 at 10:38

A while back, there was a post about how to clean the subfloors up after the construction was done, and how clean they needed to be before finished floors can be installed. There were lots of good posts, but it has dropped off of the page.

I took some early shots of a project, where I explained that we cover the subfloor with 30 lb felt paper before any framing occurs, then we frame on top of it, and cut it out after final painting is done. Here is a series of pictures that show a couple different stages, and how clean the floor is when we finally strip off the felt.

Framing on top of felt: 30 lb felt covering Advantech. Total time involved 1 1/2 hrs, 2 men. 1400sft, at 200sf per roll,= 7 rolls at $15.80 each = $115 total

After drywall and painting: As you can see, there is considerable dirt, dust, mud, drywall compound etc that collects on this membrane. All of this residue rolls up, is removed from the structure, and is thrown away, leaving the subfloor very clean.

Here you see some prep being done. The Roll-Lath is pulled up, and 90 % of the staples comes with it if you use 1/4 inch staple to hold it down. If you use anything longer, expect to spend time plucking staples and tabs of felt up from the floor. We cut around the perimeter, so we dont get tar marks on the wall when rolling it up. This is especially important when the walls are finish painted. (Usually, I wait till after the finish painting is done, but I couldnt do it in this situation of 3 pics below. Since we were going with infloor hydronic heat we needed to remove the felt protection, to install the wirsbo piping and the 1 1/2" gypcrete cover)

After removal of felt, ready for finish carpentry:



Make sure and run the staples parallel to the roll lath, and they will come up easier.

Note the staple lines: Use of 1/4 inch staples is recommended to eliminate the staples staying in the subfloor like shown in the last picture. 1/4 inch staples will roll right up with the two layers of felt. These guys did not have 1/4 in, and used 3/8 instead. Bad mistake, as they are now learning, as its a real PITA to remove the tabs of felt and staples left behind, although usually it only needs to be done where there is hard surface, and not carpet and pad.

The black marks on the subfloor is some of the asphalt base that leaches out into the subfloor and causes some discoloration.

RE: How clean is too clean, Part 2

Posted by: Rollie (My Page) on Sun, Nov 7, 04 at 23:42

We do felt on a slab also, but usually after framing, at which time you can usually use 15lb felt. I would advise against plastic, as it is too slippery when wet, and it will get wet. When felting a slab floor, we use duct tape to tape all of the seams, and then just roll up the complete mess and haul it out.

We have tried most methods, and have settled on this approach as the most bang for the buck. Covering multiple times is not cost effective, and never achieves the same results as covering before.

As far as cost is concerned, it takes considerably less time to cover a floor before the framing is done, and when the subfloor is new, as opposed to covering all the different rooms individually. Believe me, this approach has been looked at several times, and is considered to be the most cost effective in terms of return. I actually started doing this while building my own personal house, and have implemented it into the homes we build for customers. 15 lb felt does not have the lifespan to withstand the rigors of framing, subs, equipment, drywall and painting, 30 lb will, but like I said, make sure you use 1/4 inch legs on the staples.

Maybe its not for everyone, and I hope I dont come across that way, Only offering something different that works for me, and is appreciated by my customers.

THINGS I HAVE TO ADD : When Rollie first posted this thread, I think he was using 2 layers of 30#felt. But it sounds like from the Delores house descriptions (which he built in 2005) that he has changed to 1 layer ? An idea that I had and have no idea if this would work : since the felt leaves a little bit of stain on subfloor, maybe heavy brown contractor paper can be laid down and then felt on top of it. Another idea I had (for drywall only) - sweep subfloor & lay heavy brown contractor paper before drywallers. They leave an big mess which is tough to get off subfloor. - Angela

Comments (10)

  • rollie
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Wow, I dont check in very often anymore, but just happened to surf thru.

    I'm honored!

    Regarding the Delores site, its as active as ever, although the website reset the hit counter again last week so it doesnt look like its very active.

    As a side note, I never used two layers. We started out with 15lb felt and found that it wouldnt hold up for the duration of the build, so we opted for the 30lb.

  • wear_your_baby
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I wish we would have thought of this!! We spent hours trying to clean the subfloors.

  • angela12345
    Original Author
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Rollie, I have a question for you ... did the felt go all the way to the edge of the Advantech and then the Denarco SureSeal gasketing was on top of the felt (advantech-felt-denarco-wall) ? Or did you stop the felt an inch or few inches around the edge of the home for where the exterior wall framing would stand (advantech-denarco-wall) ? Energy_rater_la always recommends under the sole plates of all floors to use a sill seal or caulking. I am wonder how you worked this with the felt ?

    My builder thinks the felt would get torn up by workers dragging their tools around, etc. Your thoughts ?

  • rollie
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    With the system we use the felt (30 lb) goes down first and then the walls are framed on top. The denarco sure seal goes down in between the felt and the bottom wall plate. With the gasket in place, the felt actually "bonds" to the Advantech under the weight of the wall. Sill seal typically is either a closed cell foam or a fibreglass insulation. The weight of the wall ruptures the closed cells and when that happens, it looses its memory capabilities rendering it pretty much useless as a forgiving seal.. The fibreglass insulation just plan leaks. The beauty of the Denarco gasketing is that it is an open cell urethene impregated gasket. Being open cell allows it to open up to whatever gap needs to be filled (depending on the gasket size) and the urethene impregnation makes the gasket airtight when subjected to 60% compression. This allows for a forgiving seal as wood expands and contracts. Caulking under a sole plate is better than nothing, but pretty much a band aid, in regards to longevity. The only kind of caulking that is forgiving is Tremco Acoustical sealant. We call it "black death" because its so hard to work with, without getting it all over everything.

    30 lb felt is durable enough to withstand most of the rigors of construction. Care should be taken to "orient" the staple direction for ease of removal later, and you should staple within the last 1/2" of the felt, otherwise too much debris gets under the lap, causing the staples to tear loose. 15lb felt isnt worth the effort.

  • worthy
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    The subfloor is clean for sure. But is the cost of the felt and the labour more or less than just giving the subfloor a thorough mopping down before the finish flooring?

    Not in my books. Plus all the holes put in the subfloors for heating vents and the stuff that gets dragged, tossed and thrown around during framing guarantees the felt will be ripped and dust (gasp!) will mar the pristine subflooring.

    Hey, but whatever works for you..

  • rollie
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    The pictures dont lie. 30lb has been proven to hold up.Sure there are some random tears or holes that happen.
    Ive been building for over 35 years and dont arbitrarily waste my money or my clients.

    If mopping is good enough for you. have at it. Like I said, its not for everyone.

  • sierraeast
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    We layed down rosin paper before mudding/texturing/ painting. I dont mind some paint drips on a subfloor, but joint compound is a killer to remove. It comes up quite easily off of a concrete slab, but is a nightmare removing off of plywood. I would have liked to have had it down before the drywall was up, but we subbed the hanging out and the hangers would have destroyed the paper anyhow. They just wouldn't make the time to be that careful despite the awesome hanging job they did. It was awesome to pull the paper up after mudding/texture/ and paint to a clean subfloor!

  • angela12345
    Original Author
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Well, I am printing this thread off for my builder so he can see what I am talking about. Did you read this far, Robbie ? *grin*

  • angela12345
    Original Author
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    What is roll-lath ? I assume it is something you used to tape the edges of the felt together where they overlap and then stapled down that line ? Is there another name for it ? I cannot find it by that name. How much does that add to the cost ?

    Also, how much did you overlap the felt ? How far apart are the staples down that line of roll-lath ? Do you staple anywhere in the field of the felt ? I see that you said to staple within the last 1/2" of the felt, otherwise too much debris gets under the lap, causing the staples to tear loose. I assume by "within the last 1/2 inch" you mean all the way down along the edge of the felt where it overlaps with the next piece, not just within the last 1/2" near the wall.

  • sierraeast
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    When protecting a finished floor, you want to be as thorough and precise as possible. We're talking about a subfloor here. Rosin or felt paper stapled at the perimeter, overlapped an inch or two, and tape the seams. I like rosin because masking/ painters tape adheres well. You are inevitabely going to get rips and tears in the field and dusts along areas of the perimeter. A shop vac with a fine particulates filter works well on small debris/fine dusts such as drywall. The purpose is to keep the clean up of the subfloor to a minimum. Cover it and get to work! There are other areas of the build to be more precise and anal.