i would say the outlet box goes down first, the conduit to it needs to run under the subfloor. if this floor is concrete, you need to trench it. if wood over a basement/cawlspace, then just a cutout for the box. you MUST use a floor rated box and faceplate.

i can't answer about the way the floor fits to the box.

Thanks, DavidandKasie - it will be over a basement, so access should be easy. We knew the outlet needs to be specifically for the floor, just couldn't figure out how to deal with expansion space.

Hi, Brutuses, thanks. That's very helpful. Didn't know about adjustable floor outlets, that makes sense, though. The outlet will be under an end table, to use primarily for lighting [and plugging in laptops ;-)].

-t

"Standard floor outlets don't seem to be constructed to allow for expansion space around"

If you look at a floor receptacle you will see that it is designed exactly like a wall receptacle except that the cover plate is usually brass or aluminum and it has flip up or screw out covers to protect the receptacle when there are no plugs in it.

They are installed just like in a wall with the cover plate overlapping onto the finish so there should be plenty of room to allow for expansion of the flooring.

Do you know the exact position of where that table will be placed? If not, then you might not want to install the outlet first, particularly since you have access from the basement below.

I had a switch installed in our famuly room for end table lamps. The power end is still in the basement in a J-Box in the basement ceiling below. After we get our new furniture and once the DW is absolutley sure where the tables will be placed, then I will drill into the hardwood and install the boxes - probably just under the ends of the couches so they are not visible.

The big box stores sell the outlet boxes you need. I am not sure if this is a code requirement in your area or not, but if you plan on installing a dimmer on the switch to control the table lamps you might want to consider using a lamp/floor outlet with special lamp plugs. These are designed so that only the lamps can be inserted into the outlet to prevent accidental plugging in an appliance (like a vacumn cleaner) into the outlet, which could overload the dimmer. In my county, it is code that these types of outlets be used in a switched floor outlet. I thought that was overkill until I looked at the specs on my dimmers - it makes sense.

You might find this link useful

Here is a link that might be useful: Floor Outlets

We had existing outlets in the floor when we bought our house. We replaced the carpet with wood (not laminate) but I think it's the same concept. We left a small-ish gap around the outlet, small enough to be covered by the outlet cover plate. I don't know what your outlets are like, but to explain ours, imagine a small shallow jar made of metal. The outlet is at the bottom of the jar, and there's a ring that screws around the outside of the jar that covers the gap in the flooring. Then there's a flat piece with a groove for a screwdriver. It screws in on the inside of the jar to cover the outlet when not in use.

I don't know whether this is a standard floor outlet or not. I also don't know how old this outlet is - the house was built in the 70s but I don't know if the outlets are original.

There are two kinds of floor outlets (at least) that I've seen. There are truly flush ones that are used in wood floors and they're cut in without any gap between wood and box frame. The cover sits flush to the floor. The other type protrudes slightly as describe above. It's basically the same as an outlet in the wall, with a cover plate that rises perhaps 1/8" from the floor and overlaps the box slightly. In both cases the plugs are recessed below flip-ups. I'd go with the less flush type to overlap the laminate.