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kirkhall

Final decisions, floor plan help pls (Bevangel, Summerfield, etc!

kirkhall
11 years ago

Hi All,

Some of you recognize this space from an old post... I've met with the plumber and fully understand my plumbing limitations...

So, now, I am working on the final draft of the floorplan. I plan to meet up with the contractor and send it out for design/engineering in the next 2 weeks.

Can you all help me with these 6 things (numbered on the picture)?

1. I have 11 x 11 feet of space to fit 2 bathrooms in.

I think I prefer to have the kids bath enter closer to their bedroom doors/further from mine. What do you think (right or left option?)


2. Which master toilet/shower layout do you think fits better? the one I've drawn on the left probably fits better, but I miss that you can't see the master shower (which will be tiled) as a focal point, and instead get a toilet... but, turning the space makes it maybe not quite fit as well (alternate on right)?

3. If the kids' bath has to be in this general layout (ie, shower/toilet UP, and sinks down instead of layout on left), would you rotate the tub/toilet 90* or have it be like this? If rotated, I could choose a pocket door bathroom entry, as well as a pocket door toilet room entry. I don't really figure they should need to close the main door to the bathroom that often, so wonder if a pocket door would be a better choice?

4. I have no idea what to do in this general bubbled area. The rooflines meet here, and to some extent, what the engineer says is what will have to go. But, if anything could be done, what would you recommend? (esp with regard to square or angled walls, shallow or 45* angles, etc).

5. the master closet could be this odd shape and "HUGE" by our definition (my spouse says it is too big). Or, we could square it out at 6x8' and have the corner where the door swings into be "open" to the room and put a small window on that East wall... Maybe a desk area? Or would you keep it closet area (maybe with the window?) so the door has a resting point?

6. master windows! Please help. This is definitely where I need an expert. We hope to have a king or cal king bed, most likely on the south wall. However, my spouse would maybe one day like to put a deck out that wall; so being able to convert a window into a door might be nice. What would you suggest?

Flanking windows on the S (14') wall and egress double window on the West wall (13')? OR flanking windows on West wall and double windows on South wall (maybe someday being french doors to outside?) Is 13' wide enough to have all that door traffic on the sides of the bed (bed would be on 13' wall in this example).

Thanks in advance!

From GWfloorplans

Comments (45)

  • dekeoboe
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'd consider dividing the master closet into two closets. Where you have the number 5, is an awkward space. What if you make this area shallower and just a reach in closet. The remaining area can then be made into a walk in closet.

  • mydreamhome
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I like option 2 for the master bath--I would move the wall between the sink & toilet to between the toilet and shower. There just doesn't seem to be enough space to do both the shower and the toilet in option 1. Option 2 is a more efficient use of space.

    Like you, I also like having the kids' bath entry further away from the master, so I prefer sticking with option 1 for the kids' bath. I would opt for regular swing doors vs. pocket.

    I vote for the large closet--once you have one, your husband will understand why its such a good thing to have a large closet.

    As far as bed & window placement in the master, I would put the bed on the west wall vs. the south wall. That will leave all your options open on the south wall. You could even put a large bank of windows on the south wall if you wanted. Additionally, you'll have more clearance at the foot of the bed vs. placing the bed on the south or north walls.

    Hope this helps!

  • kirkhall
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks dekeoboe. I had thought of that... still don't know what to do. If the closet is "too large" not sure if dividing it would be popular either. But, I'll keep that suggestion in my head. I had also considered giving some of that space to the laundry closet to get a little folding area (small) or laundry basket storage, and or a tiny ability for a pass through. Not sure how'd that work though.

  • Houseofsticks
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    1. Yes, I would have the kids bathroom door closer to their rooms and futher from yours. Being that you have 5' though I'd do only 1 sink or bump it out 1' so you have a 6'ish countertop area. This would leave a 3'ish hallway. So it depends on which is more important.

    2. If you need/want 2 sinks I go with the toilet focal, I think the second is better but again, I'd worry about the close quarters of the 2 sinks.

    3. Pocket doors are a good decision for safety:) (I read your posts:) I would do a regular door on the entryway if you have girls as it will be used more than the w/c door-think make-up, loud hairdryers and needed privacy.

    4. I like the idea of 45ing the wall but, since I like symmetry I'd make the opposite wall also match and bump the bath out slightly to add the countertop space I mentioned in #1. This would be a nice focal wall as you come up the stairs.

    5. I think the shape/layout of the closet is not condusive to using all the space unless you need luggage/little used items storage as the narrower space looks like it will be too tight for rod use. We have only one view from the MB and I hate hearing a noise and having to run downstairs to see what it is. On your window placement are I think I read your wife dislikes the over the bed placement, is this correct? You could have the builder frame it out for additional changes later (french door) and use just a couple of smaller high windows. How big is the deck your wanting? If it's small I'd do a single glass door. In this space I'd rather the outswing if your set on french doors but I'd like to see Summerfields ideas for the closet/window and access area from this room. Also, how would you use the deck? Is is just an intimate area for you and your wife or would the kids be accessing as well for entertainment or sleepovers? I'm tempted to say cut the angle off the door and give it nice double doors to access to increase your MB to 17ish'.

    Other thoughts:
    Is the 7' of overhead at the stairs open? or could some of it become closet as well?
    How high are your ceilings? asking because a double rod might be nice in the closets for additional storage or built ins later.
    I would cut the kids room closets back and make them reach in with double doors (or if budget is needed elsewhere-curtain rod and curtains). This way the kids get a little more floor space. The current layout seems tough to access.

    Love that the kids rooms are side by side. I'd actually do a pocketdoor at the top of the stair for my kids to prevent them from using the stairs in the middle of the night.

  • kirkhall
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    In middle of dinner prep, so more coming in a bit---but to address the girls' closets.

    They are an odd shape out of necessity of access. The North wall along there is also a knee wall--in one room 5' in the other 5.5' or so. The ceiling isn't full height all the way through there and so I can't get regular closet doors on for a reach in. The angle is there so that I can fit a closet door there at all. Odd, I know, but it was the best solution I could come up with to still get a useable full size closet (neither current room has a closet up there).

  • kirkhall
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thank you for your thoughts Mydreamhome and houseofsticks.

    On bed placement, do you think it is weird to have one partner have to walk WAY further than the other to the bathroom in the night? I know they do it that way all the time in hotel rooms, but do houses? That is my biggest concern with putting the bed on the West wall. (Weird huh?)

    Houseofsticks... I don't think either of us are strictly opposed to windows above the bed, it just seems it isn't as common anymore. It seems like people often put a bed on a solid wall, with windows flanking. It does mean that you are "stuck" with that position.

    I might play with that idea of doing only a reach in closet in the master; all along the East wall. That would "solve" the problem of a too big closet, but it would also leave very little room for dressers, which may be necessary without the larger closet. I'll think a little more on that.

    And, yes, I do hope Bevangel and Summerfield weigh in on this. They did about a year ago when I first started on this trek and on this forum. But, I had different thoughts on the goals and restrictions then than I do now. So, they might think of something I haven't that would be a good creative solution.

  • lyfia
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I wouldn't want the bed placed on the west wall. Too close to the bathroom for noise etc. if one is sleeping in and the other isn't. Also makes for very tight furniture arrangement with all at the end. We have a similar layout with the door and our bed in your plan is on the south wall. We tried the other way and the walk no matter what is longer from one side, but the light and sound made us go back to using the long wall.

    I like the idea of the 45 degree angled wall, but will that make the area seem more cramped than having the extra space you do now? If you did the 45 degree angle I'd do it on both sides and have an angled entry into the other bedroom.

    As for the closet I think dividing it into two sounds good. As to convincing your husband, how about taking inventory of what you have and what would go in the closets if they were that size and see if he still thinks it is too big? It seems pretty small to me considering two people would be sharing it.

    I think making it a deeper reach in would be a good choice as it is right now it isn't a very useful size for a walk in closet. It is too narrow on the long part of the L. clothes hanging there would take up 2ft and you're left with 1.5ft to walk. Pretty tight. I guess you could use it for shelves.

    However if you divided it into a corner step-in closet and a deeper reach in you could have deeper shelves or use a closet system with drawers etc. and also have shelves wrap around the sides.

    I like master bath as number 2 and kids bath as number 1.

  • MoongazingHare
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    1. Door should be furthest from master, for noise reduction, but also because in option 2 it would be directly opposite laundry and best to keep doors staggered in the hallway.

    2. Master bath option 2. I think they both layout well, but, if I may be somewhat indelicate, when the toilet is in use, I think having a wall opposite it, with the option of some pretty towels, art, etc., would be more visually appealing than the back of a door. I would also suggest that you reexamine your need for sectioning off areas of the bathroom in both the master and the kid's bath. If you know that two people will need the area simultaneously on a daily basis then having compartmentalized bathrooms makes sense... but leaving them open, if possible will make things feel less cramped.

    3. i vote pocket doors on both if you have room. On main entry the wall on the right does not look wide enough to accommodate the door, and the wall to the left is behind the toilet and would normally house plumbing lines and vents. There may be no where for it to slide. Also keep in mind that a pocket door requires more wall thickness so there is room for the door to slide between studs. You will lose a few inches in the toilet area if you install pocket doors there.

    4. I would forego the angled wall and leave that corner open. It would be a great place later for a narrow chest, mirror above... keep things open and leave yourself spaces for furniture and art.

    5. The narrow leg of the closet will be difficult space to utilize as part of the closet. I would pare it down about three feet and create an alcove open to the room instead. If you need more natural light, a window is an option, put a bench underneath perhaps... but the room, with the walls taken up with windows, doors, and the bed, is lacking great places for other furniture. You could put a chest of drawers in the little alcove instead of the window.

    6. Bed on the 14' wall flanked by windows. Additional window on 13' wall for future door. Also consider leaving bed wall solid and putting two large windows on perpendicular wall that can later become double french doors... very dramatic. Consider what the view is to the outside from either potential window, and how much sunlight you'll get from each... lots of windows on the west side and your room could be an oven in the afternoons.

  • MoongazingHare
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    1. Door should be furthest from master, for noise reduction, but also because in option 2 it would be directly opposite laundry and best to keep doors staggered in the hallway.

    2. Master bath option 2. I think they both layout well, but, if I may be somewhat indelicate, when the toilet is in use, I think having a wall opposite it, with the option of some pretty towels, art, etc., would be more visually appealing than the back of a door. I would also suggest that you reexamine your need for sectioning off areas of the bathroom in both the master and the kid's bath. If you know that two people will need the area simultaneously on a daily basis then having compartmentalized bathrooms makes sense... but leaving them open, if possible will make things feel less cramped.

    3. i vote pocket doors on both if you have room. On main entry the wall on the right does not look wide enough to accommodate the door, and the wall to the left is behind the toilet and would normally house plumbing lines and vents. There may be no where for it to slide. Also keep in mind that a pocket door requires more wall thickness so there is room for the door to slide between studs. You will lose a few inches in the toilet area if you install pocket doors there.

    4. I would forego the angled wall and leave that corner open. It would be a great place later for a narrow chest, mirror above... keep things open and leave yourself spaces for furniture and art.

    5. The narrow leg of the closet will be difficult space to utilize as part of the closet. I would pare it down about three feet and create an alcove open to the room instead. If you need more natural light, a window is an option, put a bench underneath perhaps... but the room, with the walls taken up with windows, doors, and the bed, is lacking great places for other furniture. You could put a chest of drawers in the little alcove instead of the window.

    6. Bed on the 14' wall flanked by windows. Additional window on 13' wall for future door. Also consider leaving bed wall solid and putting two large windows on perpendicular wall that can later become double french doors... very dramatic. Consider what the view is to the outside from either potential window, and how much sunlight you'll get from each... lots of windows on the west side and your room could be an oven in the afternoons.

  • kirkhall
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks Lyfia.

    On one point of clarification, I want to make sure you see how big the closet is... Because of limitations of my graph paper size, I had to make the bottom dimension 5 feet short. So, there is a full 6x8 walkin portion of the master closet with the extra diagonal and 4' narrow portion at the "top"... another way to say:
    6 x 15 for the bottom and right hand measurements, then then at 8' is where it narrows to only 4 feet wide or so. Do you still think it is too small?

  • bevangel_i_h8_h0uzz
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi Kirkhall, I do remember your remodeling situation from last year but I'm afraid some of the details have slipped my mind. Plus it looks like in the interim you've learned some things about what you can/cannot do (at least not without breaking the bank) vis-a-vis moving plumbing lines.

    Specifically, I recall that you have some low ceiling issues but don't remember if they affect the area you've marked with the cloud and the number 4? But, assuming the ceiling height is great enough for you to have a hallway running down the east side from the stair case clear to the master bedroom, have you considered maybe doing something like this? Or would the masterbath toilet not work with your plumbing contraints?

    BTW - I also wanted to tell you that I've noticed what a great resource you've become to other folks on this site...sharing what you've learned as you've work your way thru your own building/remodeling dilemmas. That's the way to "pass it on"! :-)

  • mydreamhome
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    kirkhall-- In answer to your question on the walk from the bed to the bathroom--no matter which wall you put the bed on, one partner will always have a longer walk. Having more flexibility on the space at the foot of the bed & what I can put there would be more important to me. Our master bedroom/bathroom setup is the way I suggested for you. We also had a long discussion about it & in the end the dictating factors were:

    1) Privacy upon entering the bedroom (think little ones barging in when you've forgotten to lock the door). While the room itself is a big open space, placing the bed out of the immediate view from the doorway gives you an often needed precious few extra seconds to cover up, if you get what I mean.

    2) No furniture placed on the long exterior wall allowed for large bank of windows for plenty of natural light & for taking advantage of our view. All the windows on this wall allowed for enough light that windows on the shorter wall were not needed (and didn't lock us into bed size/furniture placement between the windows--which you also mention).

    3)Placing the bed so it runs with the length of the room gives more flexibility of placing a dresser/armoire/other piece of furniture on the wall opposite the end of the bed while still allowing for plenty of walkway space between the two.

    All of these outweighed the potential of light/noise in the bath disturbing the partner still asleep in the bed. My DH gets up first & simply closes the door blocking out light & noise--no big deal. I would recommend going with a solid core door for noise reduction. The window in the bathroom should provide enough light in the morning so you don't need to turn the light on immediately upon entering with the door open.

    Hope this helps!

  • Houseofsticks
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I was thinking that you've divided the bathrooms so that the MB would have some noise if the kids are getting ready...also this gives the MB more space and allows a pass through laundry for both baths. Not sure if you're able to move the W/D with your mentioned limitations. I know your not a fan of the homestyler but it's all I know:)

    http://www.homestyler.com/designer/4a1de980-3010-4d38-beb7-72d559e8856f

  • lyfia
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I like bevangels plan. Might consider switching the wall the W/D goes on so the door is closer to the kids bath in the hallway. This would allow you to move the door to the master out into tha hallway and not take up space if you wanted to put the bed on the east wall.

    You could even put the toilet straight in the corner if you were willing to cut a little space from the closet.

  • kirkhall
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks all! I really appreciate you giving me feedback...

    Bevangel, my limitation in this plan is actually the 6(or 8)x14x 16' foot Beam that goes from the left wall (where it sticks out 2 feet) to within 4 feet of the right wall... I really can't have plumbing south of the beam, and am pushing it with the tub drain in the hall bath. But, I think they can route it around the end of the beam and back to the stack. In your plan, I like it, but I don't have a way to get the toilet drained (esp since it is such a large drain line).

    House of sticks--I actually started with something similar except with the toilet/shower turned. As yours lies, the toilet would need to outlet ON the beam. Which wouldn't work. With it turned (master toilet/shower room), the toilet ended up in a place that was too hard to get the drain line to an available stack (this is the second floor and the lower floor here is kitchen/great room--no walls to work through). But, you and I had the same idea. I thought it would be nice to separate the noise of the 2 bathrooms to each of the people sleeping adjacent. It just didn't work for the plumber (he can't drill the 2x10s safely for as many as he'd have to, to not weaken the joists, is my understanding).

    Lyfia, thanks for your continued thoughts.

    Mydreamhome--thank you for your perspective and experience! Right now, South of us is nice trees/wooded "lot" of 3.5 acres. However, there is an active subdivision permit in with the city to subdivide the lot for 18 homes. I've spoken with the builders and the plan is for a house behind ours, set back about 45-50 feet from the lot line. They aren't going to be able to salvage any of the brush, and only a couple of the doug firs... It means, I am not sure how open it will be back there.

    To the West, we have neighbors. On their side wall, they have only 1 window on the lower floor and the shade is always pulled.

    @MoongazingHare--Thank you for your point by point. I had to giggle a little on the last one... I *WISH* I had to worry about solar gain. I am outside of Seattle and until the end of last week, we had had a total of 40 minutes or something ridiculous above 75*. Then, this weekend we had 2 days of 80* temps. Today, back to 60s... I could use a little warmth. :) But, yes, that is a very thoughtful answer especially for anybody in ANY other part of the country (and to all of you, I am sorry I am "complaining" about our abysmal cool whether...but we have no gardens because we still have slugs!)

    It is interesting that on bed orientation, I am getting strong answers/opinions but in both directions. Maybe I need to figure out a way to have a balanced room for the bed IN both directions. :)

    Oh, and on the right wall/east wall. We can't have windows (except maybe a between the studs window). That wall is a support/stabilizing wall for a cantilever system that holds up my existing roof where the new roof and old roof meet. The sheathing is nailed every 3" OC or something ridiculous, as specified by the engineer. We can't poke any holes. If we could, that would be the easy wall for a deck entrance.

    As for deck use--DH would just like to have the possibility of a deck with some stairs down to the patio which maybe someday will have a hottub. (I think it will never happen, but you know...just in case?)

    Thank you all! Any other thoughts welcome. I meet with the 3rd plumber for an estimate/thoughts on Thursday. Then, next week (probably late) will take this all to my contractor for design/engineering.

    @Bevangel--also thank you for your note of gratitude. I have really enjoyed being on the forums. I have always enjoyed floorplans...like to "walk through" them, and think about how they'll feel and function for me. Some floorplans are a lot easier to do that with than others. Where I can offer help, I do. But, I have learned a TON on this site, and enjoy being able to contribute and pass it on too. :)

  • kirkhall
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    One more new question--
    If I need to fudge my room sizes by 6" in the North-South dimension, which room should get smaller?
    -The girl's room to only 8.5' at narrowest N-S dimension?
    -The master bedroom to 12.5' N-S? Or, equal to both by 3"?

  • kirkhall
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Here is the original (current) layout for those curious about my rooflines.

    And, I've linked my original build post from about 1 year ago in the link below:

    From GWfloorplans

    Here is a link that might be useful: Kirkhall's Sept 2011 Build post

  • kirkhall
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Okay, one more bathroom layout option (except with a described modification)...
    This is the layout I was first working from with the plumber, but he says there isnt a good way to "catch" that master toilet.

    So, if I swapped the master toilet (only) and the master vanity location, would that be a preferable layout to the one I have above in your opinion?

    It would mean that the light from the window might have difficulty traveling to the vanity area (we would have the toilet privatized), and it would mean that the door to the Master bathroom would be in the middle of the wall, making it potentially more difficult for bed placement/limiting it to the West wall (otherwise, you'd wake up in the morning and look into the vanity area of the bathroom. Odd?)

    This puts each bathroom to the walls of the people using that bathroom... It also makes the shower floor straddle the beam, so we might have to choose a solid shower pan rather than a tiled one (I'm not sure I am fully trusting the power of the beam/making sure there is no movement between new and old parts of the house).

    From GWfloorplans

  • ontariomom
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi Kirkhall,

    Nice to see your plans. You have kindly helped me so many times and I agree with Bevangel that you are are a great resource on this forum!

    I have just a few comments to add. I would not want the first view into my ensuite to be a toilet, so I would definitely prefer the option on the right for the ensuite even if it did not make as good use of space. As for worrying about moving the kid's bath entry further from mbr, you can take care of sound with a 2 X 6 wall and more insulation in the wall, and with solid core door on mbr.

    Also, as per mbr bed placement, usually the guideline would be that the bed would be a focal point as you entered the room, so the head of the bed would be opposite the doorway. In you first layout at the top of the post, I guess the head of the bed along south would be best (flanked by the windows). You could also place the head of the bed along the west side, but that would be my second choice. I would definitely not like the head of the bed placed along the south wall that borders the bath -- you lose the focal point of a nicely decorated bed, and gain water sounds from the adjoining bath.

    Finally, is there anyway you could carve any more space for your laundry area. If it were our family, I could see dirty laundry piling up in the hallway leading to the mbr -- not a great thing.

    Good luck, and I look forward to seeing how you and other forum members solve this design dilemma.

    Carol

    P.S. As I was composing this I see that you posted some other versions. My comments do not reflect any of your Wed. posts.

  • lyfia
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    The beam you keep refering to is that the dotted line that lines up with the exterior wall bump in your roofline sketch or exactly where is the beam? Also where does the plumbing drains need to go?

  • kirkhall
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Yeah, the beam starts at the bumpout corner and runs along those dotted lines (in the black original layout, layout) for 16 feet (of 20 feet).

    The stacks are circled 'S' (one on left wall between bathrooms and bedroom and one to right of bathrooms between hallway and bedroom.)

    @OntarioMom, I think you and I think similarly when it comes to Masterbed placement. It was very interesting to me the different answers on that.

    And, I think the only way to carve more space would be to bump the laundry area into that odd area of the closet... which I had considered. I am just not sure how best to do it, since I can't really make the access any wider (of 5' double bifolds) to the laundry, nor can I make the laundry closet any deeper. I sort of figure, we'll just do sorting within the rooms, which are all handy to this location...

  • mydreamhome
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    On your new master bath question--I like the bathroom layouts in the original post (kids' bath #1 & master bath#2) better than the last one posted. I have had baths set up both ways and the long galley style bath as you enter from the bedroom makes the space feel larger and more luxurious IMO. The beautiful shower you envision is your focal point. Having the bathroom run parallel to the bedroom as you have it in the last post makes the bathroom appear shallow and the toilet/shower area become more of a closet--in ours that area didn't seem to be able to get enough light. Plus, in the 1st layout, you have a linen closet in the bath too.

    Just my $0.02.

  • kirkhall
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thank you mydreamhome. I appreciate that perspective. I am really leaning towards the bathroom layouts you like best as well.

    Do you think it is worth losing an additional 6" in the master bedroom (from 13 to 12.5' or so) so the master bath is turned (so the shower is focal; not the toilet)? That is what I am thinking might be best, but I had 13' as a minimum in my head for master bedroom dimensions.

    Definitely getting there. Thanks everyone!

  • mydreamhome
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'd probably split the difference. I'd also go ahead and save the 4" needed for the separating wall between the master vanity & toilet/shower area.It would reduce the amount of space needed to pull from the bedrooms to 4" each vs. 6" each + it opens the bathroom up and makes it look more spacious. You could also reduce the toilet area to 32" vs. 36" which further reduces the amount of space to be taken from the other rooms to 2.5" each. I'm guessing the shower will be glass to maximize precious square footage.

    Hope this helps!

  • Houseofsticks
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I would consider if your ever going to want to get dressed in the MBbath. If so I would forgo the separation. We purchased a clear shower curtain instead of the glass door as it can be drawn open to display the tilework and it makes a HUGE difference in a small space plus our contractor said the door was the same price if we did it with the build or 2 years from now. Also, when we reno'd our bath we gained 4" which seems huge in comparison to the feeling we had before.

    I would say if your only doing twins in the kids room to take from that as long as they have space for a cot or trundle for sleep overs. Also, Ikea has great space ideas for smaller kids rooms if you have one closeby.

    I wouldn't reduce the w/c to less than 36" if you can help it but I like mydreamhome's idea of spliting the difference. Have you considered a zero reveal shower-no threashold? They make it look more spacious but with your drain restrictions you may be able to move the location more than you would with a standard drain. Just food for thought. You've always give such good design advice I think you've probably done all the renditions possible I'm sure you will love your newly created space.

  • auroraborelis
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Kirkhall,

    I think you will appreciatte the extra 6" of space in the bathroom and never notice it is missing from the bedroom.

  • kirkhall
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Yay! I feel like I am getting somewhere. I really appreciate everyone's responses and perspectives. My DH is really awful at this sort of stuff.

    I went on Houzz the other day and looked at master bedroom window pictures... I pinned a few, and then today, drew this--what do you think? It salvages/reuses 2 windows that will have to come out of the dormers in the girls' rooms, since once they are officially bedrooms, they need egress windows (and the double hungs that are there, are not. I can switch them to casement windows though, and they will be fine). The double hungs are not old--we replaced them about 7 years ago, so I don't think I am ready to just toss them...

    So, the salvaged windows are the outside on the main wall (30x48"). Ceiling height of the room is only 7'8" on the drawings I have from the contractor, so I think finished it will be close to 7'6", which is what I've drawn for this perspective.

    So, my drawing, then a couple inspirations from Houzz.

    From GWfloorplans

    (like how the windows go across the top of bed:

    {{gwi:1489811}}

    Source: [houzz.com[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/master-bedroom-window-phbr0lbl-bl~l_42807?fi=272) via Dayna on Pinterest
    Light from 2 sides:

    {{gwi:1489814}}

    Source: [houzz.com[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/master-bedroom-window-phbr0lbl-bl~l_42807?fi=72) via Dayna on Pinterest

    Think it will work?

  • auroraborelis
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Nice inspiration photos!

    I keep seeing nice ones on houzz with windows going over the top of the bed that look really great, though I've been in many houses that didn't pull off the look as well.

    If you are going to go with the windows over the bed then you need to keep a couple things in mind. First, how does your bed fit? The windows need to have sufficient clearance over the top of the bed for this look to work. Second, nearly all the pictures of this style don't have curtains on the windows over the bed. If you want to block out light, then I don't think there are many ways to make curtain or blinds look good with this style of windows.

    Personally, I love the windows over the side tables, so many more options!

  • Houseofsticks
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I would shorten the width of the 2 windows that may be replaced by a french door to the width of the french door and make sure the contractor frames for the door opening and the window to accomodate the change later with minimal structural issues. It's a lot of windows...hope your an early riser. I would do just the 4 (two top on the N wall) since this may become a deck entrance. Check the size of the frech doors you want and I'd let that be your guide.

  • kirkhall
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ah! You got me! (I am a sun lover living in Seattle...) Guess I need to figure out how to let a little less light in. I just don't want to end up light-deprived! (I am light deprived 11 months out of the year.) ha!

    Okay... So those of you with a King size bed, what is the distance between your flanking windows?

    Here is a picture with a window covering on windows over the bed:

    {{gwi:1489818}}

    Source: [houzz.com[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/master-bedroom-window-phbr0lbl-bl~l_42807?fi=40) via Dayna on Pinterest

    {{gwi:1489822}}

    Source: [houzz.com[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/master-bedroom-window-phbr0lbl-bl~l_42807?fi=64) via Dayna on Pinterest

  • kirkhall
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Something like this?

    [

    [(https://www.houzz.com/photos/master-bedroom-traditional-bedroom-grand-rapids-phvw-vp~454856)

    [Traditional Bedroom design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-bedroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_715~s_2107) by Grand Rapids Architect Visbeen Associates, Inc.

    Or, maybe I need to find something like this--artwork or a mirror to go over bed and not have windows?

    [

    [(https://www.houzz.com/photos/blume-traditional-bedroom-dallas-phvw-vp~745270)

    [Traditional Bedroom design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-bedroom-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_715~s_2107) by Dallas Media And Blogs Valerie McCaskill Dickman

    I think my concern is the flanking windows (at 30 x 48") will be too small without extra windows on that large wall. Maybe I can't reuse them here, but instead end up putting one in the bathroom, and the other... Somewhere. :)

  • auroraborelis
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    What if you put in flanking windows, but bought new ones sized right for the space?

  • kirkhall
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Precisely, Laura. Does anyone have a king bed with flanking windows? Would really love to see your dimensions (ie, what is sized right for this space)? Maybe that has to be deferred to the designer.

  • auroraborelis
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I beleive ours our 86" apart, leaving 3" on either side of our bed frame.

    That said, I keep wondering if that is enough!! :)

  • kirkhall
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks Laura! I think I have mine drawn at 88" right now. What is your room size?

    Anyone else?

  • auroraborelis
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Our room is a bit larger, 15 x 18 with the headboard on the 18' wall.

  • kirkhall
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    So, this is what was returned by my GC's designer...
    Something doesn't feel right, and I think it is the space around the NW bedroom door and opposite the hall on the angle wall.

    We had to do the 2 bathrooms in this orientation for best plumbing.

    So, what do you think? Should I angle the bedroom door? And, if I do, which direction should the door swing be? And, if I do, I think I will make the closet in that room just be rectangular (agree)?

    There will be a few other adjustments (attic space closet bifold door will move, I am pretty sure, off the angled area to the straight area).

    General thoughts?

    From GWfloorplans

  • Alex House
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Have you weighed the pros-cons of double sinks versus more counter space in both bathrooms? Are your kids going to be in the bathroom at the same time using the sinks at the same time? I've seen the bathrooms used by teen girls and the counters are filled with beauty supplies.

  • kirkhall
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Yes, thank you. We will be keeping the 2 60" double vanities. For our house/our area, this will be best.

  • bevangel_i_h8_h0uzz
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hey Kirkhall, glad to see you're still moving forward!

    But, I thought there was a vent stack just about exactly where the hinges on the door into the NW bedroom are shown. Have you decided to go ahead and move that vent stack or am I just misremembering exactly where it was? Could you show exactly where the vent stack will be on the drawing above? I don't want to spend too much time playing with your sketch only to find out that that danged vent stack is in the way of every idea.

    But, I do agree that the sketch your GC's designer provided looks awkward. I'm comfortable with angled walls but they do need to look PLANNED! Where two walls meet at 135 degrees (90 + 45) they usually look planned. And, if you have two matching sets of angled walls that meet at 120 degrees (90 + 30) or at 150 degrees (90 + 60) they also usually look planned. But,where (as here) walls meet at some other odd angle, they often look like a mistake was made in the building process and the angled wall was just stuck in willy-nilly to make all the walls connect up.

    I'm wondering if something like this would work. (Probably depends on where that danged vent stack is!)

    The hallway to your bedroom would be made about a bit wider and the laundry closet a bit shallower than on your GC's design...but the laundry closet still should be plenty wide for the washer and dryer to sit at the ends as shown on the GC's design. The dotted red line is just to show how I envision the wall beside the NW bedroom would line up with the outer wall of the laundry closet. The only angled walls would be one at the top of the stairs and one in your bedroom and both would meet other walls at 135 degrees instead of some odd angle. If you put a small triangular table or some nick-knack shelves in the corner across from the hallway angled wall, you would create an angled hallway effect that would look planned rather than haphazard.

    I know one issue you're dealing with with the girls bedroom closets is that you have a kneewall at one side which is making it hard to figure out how to fit in a full sized door. But I think you could do their closets like this using 24" wide regular doors set where you have a full height ceilings. (Yes, I know 24" wide doors aren't exactly "optimal" but where space is tight, they will work FINE as closet doors, particularly for a child's closet!) Both closets would then be shallow walk-in closets (3.5 ft deep x about 6.5 ft wide) with hanging rods to the left and right of the door and a narrow aisle down the middle. Since you wouldn't have to walk very far into the closet, it wouldn't matter that the aisleway was narrow. Obviously, on the side with the low ceiling, you would not have any storage above the hanging rod but I had a similar closet in one of the secondary bedrooms of our old house that was built under a stairway and it was actually pretty functional. With kid's closets, you often want to put set the hanging rod pretty low anyway.

  • kirkhall
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Bevangel, glad to see you back on mine plan. :)
    That durn stack is going to have to move--to where I am not yet sure. The GC's plumber is coming tomorrow.

    But, it is currently located (see if you can follow this)--
    take the original knee wall location (from the bottom wall of the east bedroom) and draw a line over into the new area; and then, intersect that with the door "wall" of the proposed NW bedroom. It ends up right in the middle of the new hallway.

    I think the plan is to move it into the angled wall. Or, potentially the perpendicular door wall of the NW bedroom.

    To make these angles feel more planned, I had thought to put a built in cabinet across the angle wall in the corner between the NW bedroom and the hall bath.

    I like what you did with the one exception of taking away from the laundry closet. The reason I have the machines so far apart now (drawn) was so that I could put in a folding counter along the back wall (I use a top load washer) and still have room to work there. I think if it is much narrower, it gets to be difficult to work with a counter space (esp with regard to getting clothes out of the dryer). What do you think? Is there a clever solution there that I haven't thought about?

  • lavender_lass
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I like Bevangel's plan...it looks great! :)

    Kirkhall- Since the laundry is upstairs, have you considered front loading machines? Maybe with a pan/drain under the washer area, just in case you have any flooding?

    Also, if you had front loading machines, could you have a counter over them with some cute storage above? Maybe even have it open to the hallway? Something like this...with open shelves and baskets, rather than the windows? {{gwi:1489834}}From Kitchen plans

  • bevangel_i_h8_h0uzz
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'm with LL. While I normally prefer a separate laundry room or at least "laundry closet", given how tight your space is, I'm wondering if you might not be better off to get a front loading washer & dryer and then hide them under cabinetry instead of building a closet. It would certainly open up your hallway area. Found these images on Houzz.com that show a washer/dryer built into a hallway similar to your situation.

    I actually think you could have something made that would look BETTER than these because you have a full height ceiling in your hallway where the ceiling in this one is obviously just barely 7 ft tall which makes the upper cabinets look squatty.

    With cabinet doors open:

    [

    [(https://www.houzz.com/photos/laundry-room-transitional-laundry-room-phvw-vp~39606)

    [Modern Laundry Room design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/modern-laundry-room-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_753~s_2105) by San Francisco Architect Claudio Ortiz Design Group, Inc.

    With cabinet doors closed:

    [

    [(https://www.houzz.com/photos/laundry-room-modern-laundry-room-phvw-vp~39605)

    [Modern Laundry Room design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/modern-laundry-room-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_753~s_2105) by San Francisco Architect Claudio Ortiz Design Group, Inc.

  • kirkhall
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Yeah. I have several built ins on Pinterest which I'll post below. I was considering something like the second one about 6 months ago. The main problem is, with our area, front loaders just don't seem to fair very well... They are mildew/mold growers. Even when you leave the front open (which would be difficult to do with an enclosed cabinet.) If I lived on LL's side of the state, I think I would definitely consider it. But everybody I know over here who has had a FL washer has had significant issues with mold/mildew growth.

    Here are some nice fl/cabinet designs I have pinned:

    {{gwi:1489840}}

    Source: bhg.com via Dayna on Pinterest

    {{gwi:1489842}}

    Source: designspongeonline.com via Dayna on Pinterest

    {{gwi:1489844}}

    Source: sharonscrapbook.blogspot.com via Dayna on Pinterest

    {{gwi:1489846}}

    Source: [houzz.com[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/laundry-room-ideas-phbr0-bp~t_753?fi=32) via Dayna on Pinterest

  • lavender_lass
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Move to my side of the state? No more mold, but a lot more snow...at least most winters :)

    You said you wanted a counter over the dryer, right? What about keeping the top loader washer and putting the countertop next to it (with a sink, like above) and then the dryer on the other side, with another counter area, over built-in hampers.

    Add some shelves and/or cabinets above and you'd have a really nice laundry area. And, no one is going to see it, except those who go to the upstairs bedrooms. It would be a lot handier than trying to step into a little closet, IMHO :) {{gwi:1489848}}From Cottage house plans