It does seem unlikely the joist spacing is the problem since 3/4" Sheathing Span or Floor Span OSB should be rated for a 24" span but whatever you do you should do it from below.

It should be far easier to remove the ceiling below, reinforce the sub-floor and replace the ceiling. I suggest doing a portion of it and see if it solves the problem.

Even though the sub flooring was glued and screwed the moisture content of the wood may have been high or the screws not properly installed allowing the sheathing to rise. You might be able to see if that is the case from below.

You sure it was glued and screwed? I would suspect subfloor nails are the culprit.

I have serious doubts your "popping" wood floors have anything at all to do with your subfloor. I'm not sure what would be making the noise though.

The noise could be due to the larger than normal joist spacing combined with a high moisture condition during installation. The solution might be to add 2x4 blocking tight to the subfloor from below until the popping stops.

I can think of no reason to remove flooring or sub flooring.

Thanks everyone for chiming in! I appreciate it. I'll explain a bit more because some of you had questions. There were no noise issues when we moved in. It wasn't until about 4 months later that we started to hear a pop and crack here and there when we walked upstairs. No big deal. However, It continued to grow and get worse (more pops over several months) all in the areas where we walk the most upstairs (hallway and masterbedroom). We had 2 certified flooring inspectors assess the floor and both found it to be an insufficient subfloor on top of 24" OC joists. The minimum, according to our wood manufacturer's instructions and the NWFA's installation guidelines is 7/8" plywood subfloor or 1" thick OSB over 24"OC joists. Also, in doing research on the internet, I can see that this is the problem regarding the popping sounds. What is happening is a slight flex in the subfloor between joists when we walk which over time has loosened the floor staples from the OSB. Also, adding to the problem is that OSB doesn't hold nails/staples as well as plywood or even Advantech. So the wood floor boards are not being held tight to the subfloor anymore, causing the popping sounds. Our downstairs floor is the same wood floor only on top of 1 1/2" OSB on top of 24" OC joists. The reason for the double subfloor was that the lumberyard was originally supposed to send Advantech, but sent OSB (I know, Advantech is OSB, but I think it's a lot better). The framers didn't catch the error and installed the OSB. The lumberyard said they would correct their mistake by sending Advantech to put on top of the OSB. Thank goodness they made this mistake because the double subfloor makes a very stiff floor, and we have NO popping or cracking sound issues downstairs at all. However, all along we were unaware of the joist spacing as we were building out of state (stupidly, never again). So, when we switched to wood upstairs in lieu of carpet, we had no idea there would be a problem. The builder never said it. We were unaware of the joist spacing subfloor issues until after the noises started, and we started researching it. Does all that make sense?

So, in terms of blocking, I am not sure if blocking will stiffen up the subfloor flexing that is occuring between the joists. I understand that it will stiffen up the joists and reduce movement, but I am still leary of it helping our situation.

My main question is: can subfloors that have been glued and screwed to joists (they were because we paid extra to have that done) be pulled up off of I joists without damaging the I joists or compromising their structural integrity and strength?

Thanks for reading my long story!!!

If glued and screwed properly, probably not. Are the Wood I-Joists lumber top and bottom chords or are they LVL top and bottom chords? If lumber you may stand a better chance than if they are LVL as you will probably pull apart the veneer depending on what subfloor adhesive they used. But either or it will be iffy and a messy attempt.

I'm guessing they are LVL top and bottom chords as they look like layers, not solid piece of wood.

Thanks for your help.

I am afraid that type may pull apart, but I may be wrong as well.

What you said makes sense, so you're probably right. Thanks.

It sounds to me like you would want to remove your flooring, and double-up the osb, not remove it. But, what do I know.

If the OSB was glued down with proper subfloor adhesive and then nailed and screwed tight, no it will not pull off.

Drywall deliveries to a basement are often put through a removed section of subfloor. Doesn't work when it's properly adhered. (OTOH, I once saw a builder use white glue as adhesive--the stuff your kids use on kindergarten projects. Likely a different story.)

R and R an existing hardwood floor will be very expensive. Many of the boards will be destroyed and useless. Let alone the double labour. If you still insist on that, add a layer of plywood. You can transition the added height to the hallway.

However, for the hallway the stair problem is nearly insuperable.

As Reno8 suggests, work from underneath. Blocking, nailing and screwing may do the trick.

The fault here, as you note, is your last minute change from carpeting to hardwood.

This post was edited by worthy on Mon, Aug 4, 14 at 13:51

Duplicate

This post was edited by worthy on Mon, Aug 4, 14 at 13:44

Years ago, we put tile in the kitchen where vinyl had been. Because the floor was originally vinyl, the subfloor wasn't thick enough to support tile. We added another layer of subfloor overtop to strengthen it.

That tile lasted very well for 10 years. During which time I realized what a horrible idea tile in the kitchen is, so we ripped it out again.

If you feel your subfloor isn't thick enough, then added more is probably a better idea than trying to rip out the thinner stuff.

Thanks, Worthy, for your help. I do appreciate it. I do think, however, that it is not our fault for switching to wood at the last minute. All the builder had to do was say "no, not possible" like he did for other things we tried to upgrade (like most people do when building a custom home), and we would have simply put in an upgraded carpet. We didn't know what was required for a proper subfloor and joist spacing....that is why we hired a builder. We only know now because we had a problem and started researching "wood floors making popping sounds" on the Internet. A builder should know these things. The floor installer (NWFA certified) should know these things. No one said a word.

A builder should know these things.

Agreed. (You're absolved!)

Phew! :)

Ayva,

I sent you an email through GW, had some questions about your issue.

Hi mjwkr,

I replied to your email....did you not get it? Let me know. I just hit the 'reply" button, but maybe I was supposed to do something else?