My spec specifically says no picture framing. I am not sure what it is, actually, but it sounds like you would need more elements to not picture frame.

I did not realize that what my contractor has done is picture framing. He mentioned that the windows were set up to do them that way, but I thought that because we discussed it before, that he wasn't using the picture framing approach.

The casing is about 3.5" wide. What would be the max stool that would look good with that, in your opinion?

OK, now it makes sense! I asked the contractor, and they are now going to cut the stool at an angle so it will be level with the sill. The way they first did it was different. The sill was higher than the stool, so I could see the entire "border" around the window that comes with the window itself. Now the stool will appear to be wider because it will incorporate the width of the sill into its surface.

How much of a reveal do you like to see on the sides and top? I think I prefer to see less of the border that comes with the window.

One more addition here: I found a post from the window forum from a couple of years ago, and I have a follow up question.

Our windows have jamb extensions on all four sides. If you read below, it sounds like with some companies you don't have to have the jamb extension on the bottom. This would allow you to avoid using a sill cap over the existing jamb extension.

If you already have the jamb extension, it is ok to remove it? I wonder if it would void any warranties?

"Follow-Up Postings:
RE: Inside Sill or Picture Frame?

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Posted by galefarm (My Page) on Fri, Jul 31, 09 at 15:45
Most windows come set up today for picture framed trim, however it is easy enough to convert to an interior sill which is how all my historic reproduction customers request their windows. A sill gives more room if you like to have nick nacks on the window sills, or if you put Christmas Candles in the window. A picture framed approach is a more contemporary look. as far as the outside goes if you want a sill appearance yo can do it one of several ways. 1) order the window with a subsill applied and they should come in you choice of thicknesses. 2) Order the standard window and apply a flat or brick mould trim on the top and sides with a sill profile on the bottom of the window. This can b in wood, a composite material or a clad material.
On the inside you can apply a window sill in one of two ways. One is to just apply a sill cap over the existing Jamb extension. Another way is to take the bottom jamb extension off and make a sill cap to replace it, or some companies will let you order the window with the jamb extensions on three sides only this is the easier way with companies that wrap their Jamb extensions on.

Basically it depends on your taste today whether you have a sill on the window or not In most cases the picture frame approach works very well."

I don't think there are any hard and fast rules about depth of the stool. I personally think a stool about the same depth as the width of the casing casing usually looks nice.

Hopefully your specs say something more than just "no picture framing" or you're lucky your builder is actually casing the windows at all and not just wrapping the drywall around to meet the window. Like this...

Thanks, bevangel! No, it doesn't look like the picture at all!

I just did not like that the stool was lower than the sill. You could see the entire extension jamb as a rectangle around the window.

They will now do it so the stool meets the sill "flush", and they are going to show less of a reveal on the other three sides. I will send a picture later. They are working now so I don't want to take a picture.

I agree that the photo you sent is not the look we're going for! I have lived in several 18th C houses, and even on built in 1682, so my preference is for an older look. I want to see the trim, not the jamb. I know we need a reveal, but I would prefer to see just the angled "bevel" if you will, not the flat part of the extension jamb. My current house is only 32 years old, but it's a rambling cape that now has a cedar roof, hardy shingle on the front, and smooth hardie plank elsewhere. By no means is it a reproduction, but certain details matter to us a lot, and this is one of them!

Just saw your follow up posts.

Are the interior sills of the windows (as they come from Anderson) angled or do they have a beveled edge? Mine (from Jeldwen) were cut square so placing a stool up against the sill would have been no problem at all. We opted AGAINST having deep finished window sills because I didn't want to be tempted to set plants in the windows. (I have a tendency to overwater my plants and end up with a pool of water under them which would not have been good for my wood framed windows.)

The thread you reposted from galefarm about jamb extensions is a bit confusing because he/she talks about both the interior and the exterior window finish at the same time.

I would not recommend having an exterior window sill. Even when properly sloped so that water runs off, an exterior window sill provides a place where things like wet leaves/snow can collect.

On the inside, you can just apply a sill cap over the existing jamb. I would NOT remove the lower jamb without first contacting Andersen regarding whether this would void their warranty. And if their agent said that it would not void the warranty, I'd want it in writing with a statement that the agent had the authority to bind the company. Window companies can be VERY picky when it comes to their warranties.

They are beveled. The carpenter is cutting the stool so it lays on the bevel of the sill. It looks really good, and you don't see the extension jamb at all, like an old-fashioned window sill.

Thanks, again, for your help.

It's difficult to follow this discussion. A window "sill" is the exterior part of a window frame that slopes to shed water. Modern windows have very small low-sloping sills and can be "picture framed" which means the same exterior casing trim is used on all 4 sides. This often causes leaks below the window and should be avoided. Instead use a PVC "sub-sill" to create more projection, a better "drip-edge", and a place for the jamb trim to terminate.

The lower trim on the inside is called a "stool". It creates a better seal at the bottom sash and a narrow tapered "apron" trim is placed below it. Modern windows are no different from older windows in that the stool can be added or omitted. When it is omitted the casing trim is the same on all 4 sides like a picture frame which has a 60's modern/utilitarian/office appearance.

I'm not sure what is meant by beveling. A photo would be helpful.

As I said, variations in what is meant by some of the terms related to windows can cause confusion. That's why I started my response with a labeled diagram taken from Andersen Window's website showing the interior of a window and then used the terms as Andersen Windows used them on their website.

OP did not have any issues with the exterior trim out of her windows. She just wanted a wider flat surface on the INSIDE of her windows so she could set plants/knickknacks in the window. Since OP (and apparently her builder) were able to follow the discussion well enough to solve OP's problem, whether the particular part of the window trim that was in question is properly called a "stool" or a "sill" - or something else altogether - seems irrelevant.

I'm sorry to have confused you tho. Hopefully if anyone else has a similar problem, they'll find the diagram helps to clarify things.

The issue here is how an Andersen window is detailed differently from a traditional window which is difficult to discuss because Andersen makes many different designs and apparently the model is not identified.

For an Andersen Woodwright double-hung window the statement that newer Andersen windows are meant to be picture framed is true for the exterior trim but not the interior trim. The use of a stool vs Picture frame trim is entirely optional.

But I suspect the contractor either misspoke or was misquoted because he was probably saying that the presence of a weather lip at the bottom interior edge of the sash allows the window to have "picture-frame" trim because a stool trim is not needed to seal the window sash as it normally is on an older window.

It is also true that the presence of this permanent weather stop makes Andersen's standard stool trim about 3/8" shorter.

ANDERSEN WOODWRIGHT DETAIL

TRADITIONAL DETAIL

The confusion that seems to have arisen here appears to be due to a misunderstanding of why modern windows have an integral upturn or weather stop at the bottom interior edge of the frame/sill. It is not for the purpose of accommodating "picture frame trim" although it does take the place of what originally served as a weather stop: a stool trim added in the field.

The reason these upturns were added was to be able to get higher air/water penetration test ratings with the basic unit since a field applied stool would be ignored in the modern test, would not stand up high enough to be very effective and would not accommodate a weather strip.

So today windows have improved weather/air penetration ratings but pretty dumb looking stool details. Windows made for higher wind areas have even higher upturned weather stops. Unfortunately, window designers care more about how a unit will fit in a shipping box than how it will look when trimmed in the field. It takes a good carpenter to make a modern window look good no matter what you paid for it.