What is the sill going to be? Limestone?

It appears the builder/designer wants to turn the brick at the perimeter of the window opening back toward to the sheathing to create an overlap sufficient for a sealant seal.

The effectiveness of using a half brick depends on the size of the brick, the depth of the cavity, and the projection of the window frame. Check the actual overlap to be sure it is enough to allow a backer rod and sealant.

The absence of a molding will create a thinner appearance to the window which is more modern but it is not possible to say if it will look better without seeing the house design, however, the head and sill treatment do not sound like a modern design.

If you want to use a molding ask the window supplier if they offer one as part of the window assembly or use cellular PVC (Azak, etc.) Since modern nail-fin windows do not usually allow the sill to project more than the jambs, you should probably install a sub-sill on top of the brick sill.

Make sure there is adequate flashing under the brick sill.

I thought you were asking about millwork that extends over or stands proud of the face of the brick like window moulding around a clapboard house.

I would have the brick form the "frame" or opening around the window.

You do *not want this:

You *do want this:

Or this:

Masonry houses often have no sheathing.

Brick veneer is installed over sheathing (1 wythe thick) and is what is often now considered a 'brick house.'

The historic look you are going for is definitely there.

Could the architect spec cast stone sills?

What manufacturer of window are you doing?

For example, all-wood Marvin Double Hung windows come Standard with brick mold unless otherwise spec'd. Perhaps if the window you are using is something like Marvin, the architect is saying that he ordered them with the standard exterior detail (?)

I'll see about the price for limestone sills.

Do not omit sill flashing.
It holds the window from contact with the brick.

Copper is very much preferred.

The mortar will eat aluminum rather quickly, and the same with the galvanize coating on steel.

Is there a detail drawing for this?

what do you mean slide a window in, brickeyee? the windows are already in.

architect said aluminum flashing only, by the way, because of the cost of copper. he said aluminum is fine.

here are some images of the windows--do we have what we need?

The Brick Molding does not extend outward from the window frame like a traditional/historic molding would; it is flush with the frame so it also requires a partial brick to be turned back toward the sheathing.

The only difference with the added molding is that there is 1 5/16" more metal showing at the top and sides and 5/8" more at the bottom. (a 2 11/16" sub sill is also available as shown in the detail window)

I don't think the molding makes much of a difference at the top and sides because the Magnum jamb is so large but a thicker sill would make the window look considerably more historic and I think that can be added without affecting the wood wall rough opening. The brick would set against the window frame after it is installed.

I think the solid sill will help the illusion.

Even the run off from rain on a brick wall will attack aluminum.

Is he going to put that in writing for 20 or 30 years?

No surface finish is perfect, and spot coating used when the material is cut to fit is going to be much weaker than a factory finish.

How long do you want it to last?

Aluminum is used in a lot of commercial work since the intended lifetime is not all that long.

It will be badly damaged by the time a 30 year mortgage is paid off, but that is probably past the life of the windows anyway.