I'm not familiar with the area so I can't say too much about prices but I'd be floored if somebody came at me with that kind of quote. I'd first recommend that you get multiple quotes from different builders. Also, have you thought about GCing this project yourself? This size of project you could easily do. I'd also recommend getting several quotes from various subs just to see if this is something you'd be interested in.

FYI: I'm in the Nashville area and the expensive subs charge about this:

Plumbing: $600/fixture
Roofing: $100 / square
Drywall: $1.25 / sf (of drywall)
Also, several framers I know make between $15-20/hr (now this could vary wildly depending on the market.)

Doing some quick math without seeing any plans, 4 guys framing up for an entire week (which should easily finish the job), that's 160 hrs. Even at $50/hr, that's only $8000 in labor.

Another suggestion I've read from here is to find people from less expensive parts of the country and offering to pay their expenses plus rate and flying them in to do the work. Just my 2c.

I would imagine that 'outside DC' would be a more expensive area for construction labor but we are outside Portland, OR and we paid about $32k for the framing of our entire new home...about 4000sf plus 500sf of garage. We have 4 1/2 baths, A Kitchen, a wet bar, a kitchenette, 2 laundry hook ups and several outside hose bibs, our Plumbing rough in was $10,200. This was all within the last year. I know that this is 'apples to oranges' for your project but hope it might help in some way. I have always heard that remodels are more expensive due to the unknowns. I think rsc2a has given you good advice, get more bids from builders/subs in your area and see what you find. Good luck to you.

$24,000 for framing labor jumps out at me as high. We are building in an expensive area of the country (NE) and our cost/sq ft is ~$250. To frame a 2000 sq ft house, we are paying a total of $40,000 for labor. Also, a 20% markup seems high. Standard here is 10% on a house and my parents are remodeling their kitchen in the PA/Nj area for 15% markup.

My 2 cents would be to bid it out...I think this builder knows you want to move quickly- or do you have time?

I am not far from you (Va Beach, VA vicinity), but DC costs are much higher than in our area. Still, the framing costs do seem a bit high to me. As comparison, we got several estimates for framing (lumber and labor only) for our addition -- a 1000 sq ft -- and ours was around $25K.

But, one word of caution... do not try to compare flat framing costs for a remodel to framing costs for a new build. They simply aren't an apples to apples comparison. Remodel work is ALWAYS more expensive than a new build.

At the end of the day, interview several good builders/GCs and you should start to get a feel for pricing. We interviewed so many builders and received estimates ranging from $50K-$220K for the same project (our was just a foundation and framing bid). In the end, we took out the extremes (highs and lows) and started more detailed interviews with a pool of candidates we knew were in our price and quality range.

Best of luck!

"Our builder has now presented us with a budget that is $246/sq foot."
"The builder merely said the prices are what they are."

I'd show him the other quotes and tell him "The quotes are what they are. Do you want the business or not?"

"We were quoted costs of $120-$150 a square foot by several builders."

Why not go with one of those bids?

I'm going to echo what most everyone else has said. First and most importantly, get multiple bids!! It might be a pain, and maybe you really want to use this particular builder, but you must must must get multiple bids. It's the only way to keep the guy honest and get a good cross-section of understanding of what everyone is charging.

Also, just to give you a little illustration of what's happened to both building and materials costs in recent years, we are shocked (in a good way) at how much cheaper it is NOW to do a complete renovation/addition of a home than it was in 2003. We have done renovations on two separate houses, one back in '03 and one that we're currently doing, both in the same high cost coastal town. Both involved a "down to the studs" remodel and addition of significant square footage.

In 2003, we went with a "cost plus" builder who charged us 17% and did everything on a time and materials basis. Our build ended up being about $350/sf. It was high end materials and a great home. We loved it, had a very pleasant experience with our biulder, and because real estate was booming, we made a nice profit when we sold it several years later (after adopting two children and needing more space).

Here we are in 2009, with our expanded family, and we bought another fixer-upper almost a year ago, and are now coming to the end of yet another large renovation/addition project. Everything is very similar to the prior house project - the finish details, the complexity of the build, in the same town, etc, and yet it is costing us FAR less per square foot than it did in 2003. This time, the price psf is coming out to under $200 (probably around $185 when it's finished). In our area (southern Cal) that is WAY lower than the norm.

The major reasons for that are twofold: We went with a high quality builder who offered a fixed price bid and cost of subs and materials are way down.

Our builder, although he's well-established in our area, is recently becoming known as a GC who will offer fixed price bids and he is now fairly busy while other cost plus builders are slow. These days, people need/want the peace of mind of fixed price bids, and there's no reason that the local builders should not respond, especially in this economy.

Granted, the fixed price bid process was way more work for us up front (as well as for the builder) because we had to really nail down all the details in the architectural drawings and specs and make decisions about all our finishes very early in the process in order for the bid to be on target and meaningful, but so far, we're pretty much on budget and we only have about 8 weeks left to go.

It's been a little difficult with our current fixed price builder because there is a definite "push-pull" and a little more tension in the relationship than with our prior "cost plus" guy because we have to hold our fixed price guy accountable to building exactly what is spec'd for the price he quoted, instead of just opening up the spigot and paying as we go, as we would with a "cost plus" contractor. Now, DH and I always joke that no wonder our former builder was such a good guy and so great to work with - we just paid him whatever he asked for - what a deal! When we think back on it, although we trusted him in general, there was really zero accountability or financial incentive for him to keep us on budget, which is the way it is in most "cost plus" contracts. Again, there will probably be a little more tension and you will have to look over the builder's shoulder a lot with a fixed price bid (and maybe your architect can help with that, albeit for a fee), but the best way to avoid the tension as much as possible is to make sure your plans/specs are super detailed and clear right from the start.

The other reason our costs are so much lower this time is also because the subs and the materials seem to be way down in price.

There is really no reason whatsoever at this point in the economy that anyone should have to choose a builder with a cost plus contract that charges 20% on top of everything else. That's crazy...and don't let them tell you that you'll make it up in discounts by his offering you the benefit of his contractor discount. That is not true either. These days, most plumbing supply houses, electrical fixture suppliers, tile shops, etc, etc, are more than willing to pass on a contractor's discount directly to the consumer if you're doing a significant project. And, even if they're only willing to pass on the discount to your contractor, with a fixed price bid you can get the benefit of the contractor discount but without the mark-up afterwards, which usually nixes most of, if not all, the savings. That is the way we are doing our project - we pick out all fixtures and finishes and we get the contractor's discount. Our builder does not mark any of it up.

I suggest you start from the beginning and put together a bid packet (which should include your detailed drawings, spec sheet outlining all finish details, and a detailed questionnaire with interview questions regarding the builders' backgrounds, experience, references, etc). Then you should hand that out to at least 3 builders that you are considering (including your current guy) and tell them you're only interested in fixed bid contracts and if they're willing/interested in working with you, please get back to you within x weeks (for our project, they got back to us in 2-3 weeks). Tell them you'll make a decision by a certain date and you'll be ready to go on a certain date. Ask them if they need any more info from you and if so, tell them you'll be very accessible.

Just my two cents. Good luck!!

susan3733,

I just happened to be "stopping by" to check out the "way over bid" topic and am so impressed by your response! Dh and I just finished building and this forum was invaluable because of people like you! I agree too that OP should get at least 3 bids...sounds so high; anyway, thanks for your input!!

Hi Everybody,

This is the original OP. I wanted to thank everyone for the great responses. We are definitely going out with more bids.

In my earlier discussions, I spoke with four builders about fixed price contracts and none of them would agree to work that way. You've convinced me to demand a builder who will work with a fixed cost.

I do have my architect's drawings and very detailed specs plus details on all the finishes chosen.

I am telling the current builder (he's doing some remodeling on the exisitng house)that if he wants to win this job he'll sharpen his pencil and bring this back within 10% of his original estimate.

I wanted to get a sense of reality where costs (particularly framing and plumbing) were concerned prior to talking to him on Monday.

This forum is such a great resource.

Click on my name and send me an email. I built an addition in NoVA slightly larger than yours, and I can share details.

One quick thought - from an Architect - you should have your Architect helping with this. He should be helping you come up with a list of qualified bidders, should be assembling the bid documents, answering the bidder's questions during the bid period, reviewing the bids, and recommending the best value to you. He should also have put together a preliminary construction budget for you, so you'd have something to base your expectations on.

That part of an Architect's service is widely misunderstood - but it is an essential component that's included to help you avoid exactly what you're experiencing.

Is it too late to involve him in this?

Richard Taylor, AIA

Here is a link that might be useful: Sense of Place - An Architect's Point of View

nova.......those prices are WAY out of line. Framing should be in the neighborhood of $5.00/sf under roof. Plumbing should be in approx. $350/per hook up for just a start. If it's just an addition....why not owner/builder...???? The prices they quoted you.....are unbelievable to say the least. NOTHING should be quoted by 'sf' to begin with!!
I'm in the Charlotte, NC area.

I too am in No Va. That is way too high a bid, who is building here in this area anyway? I would tell your builder this is what I am paying, take or leave it. I have an excellent inexpensive tile setter for you if interested. I would take that out and pay the installer directly.. I can give name if you email me.

Remember, remodeling is usually twice (or more!) as expensive "per square foot" as a new build. New construction in the DC area is more expensive than $150 per square foot! Tieing in the new to the old can be problematic. All the homes systems will need to be upgraded/updated for an addition that large. New HVAC system. New electrical panel. Maybe even new service from the main line to the home. Obviously new plumbing to the new bath, but the main drain may be undersized to carry away the waste from a larger home. New roofing, and if you want the roof to match the rest of the house, that will have to be roofed at the same time with the same shingles. THe lot may need regrading to keep the new runoff from the addition from becoming a problem to the existing home and basement.

BTW, "per square foot" is a misleading and meaningless way to judge the cost of an addition. It's all about the systems involved in the construction. Kitchens and baths are more expensive "per square foot" than are bedrooms or closets. Considering the type of addition you are building, the area, and the size of it, I'd expect your multiple ballparked bids to start at around $150K and go up to $190K with $175K being probably closer to the final real number.

nova

I just finished building a new home in western loudoun. When I tally up evrything - which includes site prep, well, and septic - it comes to 198 per square foot not including the basement. When I add the partially finished basement into the mix, the price per sq foot drops to around 130. It is finished nicely but not over the top. I would say your builder is on crack. Can you say who it is?

Does your 20 grand for the bathroom include everything? We spent 7500 on the steam shower alone - so 20 grand might not be enough depending on cabinets, countertops, fuacets, and other flooring. Here is a breakdown just for the steam shower:

Steam unit & plumbing: 1500
Glass doors with seals: 1000
Tile with Kerdi Liner: 5000

I love the steam shower and we use it but it wasn't cheap. Make sure you slope the ceiling properly - check over on the bathroom forum for details. If your bid does not include a Kerdi Liner on the floors, walls, and ceiling then the tile people don't know what they are doing.

Good luck.

Thanks to all for your insights and experiences. It really helps. This post is a bit long because I thought I'd share more about our build and our decision-making process.

The builder and I made some progress yesterday. I discovered he did bid out the pieces and had three quotes on each major component from various subs he has worked with over the years. We reviewed them together. He went with the lowest. However, he had miscalculated the overall square footage (100 sq feet too much).

Now, after talking to the subs, the bid is a bit lower. The GC had also added an extra 5% for each line item to cover problems which might arise plus included a separate reserve fund. Actually, that's ok with me as I would rather estimate on the high side than be surprised and be forced into a home equity loan. We're doing the remodeling, addition, and pool in cash and I want to keep it that way. My big cost concern was the framing labor. The framers are doing more than just framing. They'll also be installing all the windows and doors, inside and outside trim, and painting. I don't know why he didn't communicate this during our earlier discussion. The current house is a combo of brick/wood and we're using Hardi-Board as our siding choice, a more expensive choice. We hope to replace the wood siding on the rest of the house with Hard-Board as soon as our budget recovers.

We also cut the roof budget and the HVAC budget. As recommended here, I pulled out some pieces of the job that I can GC myself...mainly finishing work. I found flooring at half the estimated cost so we're going with my guy. I cut the paint budget to builder's white and will go back and repaint with my chosen paints. We can paint. The closet finishing was cut to the bone, as in "give me a rod". It's one thing I know how to do myself. I have no confidence in my ability to GC framing or plumbing and other big pieces and am not sure I can learn enough fast enough.

I started this project with a very clear idea of what I wanted. I want this to be my last house. Of paramount importance was to build a house that was aging-friendly and could be retrofitted easily to accommodate age-related disabilities. For example, the walls in our separate toilet area are being reinforced now for future grab bars if needed. No steps and all transition areas incorporate universal design. Layout, doors, faucets, laundry...almost everything has been designed for age-related disabilities and keeping a person in the home, as long as possible, with the aid of home health care services. The toilet area is placed very specifically to ensure an easy transition from bed to bath in the middle of the night with few risks for accidents. Having moved and nursed two sets of aging parents into nursing homes, we have a pretty good idea of what it takes to keep people in their homes as long as possible. It goes beyond traditional universal design concepts. Now, watch me get taken out by a bus.

We've been planning this for three years trying to decide between a new build or adding onto an existing house. This spring the right existing house, in the right location, at the right time, at the right price made the decision for us. Our next decision was to go with an architect or go design/build.

We interviewed two architects. One of them scared the hooey out of me. He was very focused on redoing the entire facade of the house with stone work and a turret! I felt he had not listened to a word I said and would be very intent on fulfilling his vision instead of mine. The other architect spent more time talking about all the permitting problems we might encounter than the actual design. By the way, our permit sailed through, with one minor delay. Cost was also a factor. The architects quotes were 15-18% of the total cost for a small addition plus $175-250 per site visit. I do see the wisdom of using an architect but the price made me very nervous. Maybe that was a mistake on my part but almost everyone I know here goes design/build. That's what we decided to do. The architect fees for design/build ran about $4000. This included using an expediter to get the permit through.

One of the problems we ran into in our initial planning for this project was the lack of timely responses from the builders we interviewed.. We are working within a certain time frame. I wrote a very detailed scope of work and prepared a super-detailed spreadsheet for my interviews. The three contractors I interviewed pretty much quoted the same price per square foot. I understand that talking price per square foot isn't completely realistic and that adding to the current can be more expensive than building new. I gave each one my spreadsheet and asked for a detailed estimate. The GC we are working with was the only who got back to us within 30 days. Given the downturn in housing, we thought we'd hear back from everyone pretty quickly. That didn't happen. Still hasn't. This GC has an excellent reputation and we have a pretty good rapport. We haggle and disagree but it's always civil. He's been working on some remodeling of the existing home and the work has been high quality and on budget. I also like and trust the subs he's employed to date...except that they keep drinking the bottled water in my fridge when my back is turned. If that's the biggest problem I have, then I have no problem. Many of the same crew will be working on the addition.

Over the weekend, I had a pretty frank conversation with a builder/friend who couldn't take our work due to his schedule. He feels the cost of the project with the current cost cutting is about 10% more than he could deliver if he could take it on. He said our GC has an excellent reputation for quality work, tends to be more expensive, but does deliver on budget, once we've haggled our way through it. My friend also said that many of the custom builders here are still running very high in pricing and if they come in low they'll likely play games to make up for it. He did remind me to keep in mind that I'm building a single story addition which always costs more than a two-story. My friend also agreed with many of you that I should pull chunks and take care of it myself. We halted the remaining remodeling work in the current house which I'll finish off plus cut out chunks of the addition project. My time and labor is worth the dollar savings up to a certain point.

The decision my husband and I face is to stop the process, go out to other builders, hope they respond, and blow our time frame with hopes for a better result or pay (literally) for our time constraints and continue with a reduced budget. We're leaning towards the latter. The DC housing economy has slowed but incomes are very protected here from recession here compared to the rest of the country. We are also facing a builder backlog because the weather has been so miserable with rain for the last couple of months.

The one thing I don't get is why all the building folk talk about price per square foot on initial interviews but don't give you all the caveats. I think that's why I was so stunned when we actually looked at hard numbers. Even during this downturn, it's hard to get return calls.

We've now got the cost for the addition down to $140,000 from $160,000 which is $213/square foot. Given our high-end bath, we may be approaching reasonable. The good news is that we are increasing the house from a 3 bedroom/2.5 bath to a 4 bedroom/3.5 bath which should increase our value (and tax assessment). Although, I hope to stay in the house until they carry me out.

I must admit the Master Bath is driving up this price. It is the only area we planned to truly splurge. For those of you who are interested, here is our budget. Due to health reasons, neither of us can use a hot tub to relax those old muscles so went with a steam shower to help with muscles, allergies, and skin conditions.

Master Bath 12'x12' Overall  5'x5' Steam Shower  5'x5' Separate Toilet Area  Separate Vanities. -
No Bathtub- One Window, Main Entry Door, Another door to the very large combined Master Closet/Laundry space.

Steam shower Generator/Control Kit  Mr. Steam - $3200
Stream Shower Lights  Mr Steam - $600
Rain Shower head  Moen - $600
2 Hand Held Spray showers - $700
Glass Door with seals - $1200
2 Grab Bars - $200
Kerdi Moisture Proof Barrier Kit - $900
2  36" Vanities with Medicine Chests  Merillat stock - $2000
Vanity Tops  Blue pearl Granite - $800
2 Faucets  Moen - $700
Tile  entire bath - $4300
Tile/Labor - $3000
Plumbing - $7000 (to bring from main house  most work done in a crawl space)
Total Bath - $25, 250

Live wire oak  if you've made it this far, thanks for the reality check. You're right on the money. MyDreamHome  I agree with the difficulty figuring out the home building business. I'd rather face the dentist without anesthesia. If I had infinite time, I'd run down more of this myself but between work, kids, other family, life stuff, there's only so much one can do. Luckily, I work from home and can take on the smaller components. Actually, we're not in the house yet. We wanted to finish the current remodeling work and get the addition underway before we move in. We sold our other home in 2005 and have been renting and saving for this home. Our lease ends in August. Sniffdog, Congratulations on making it through. I'm so glad you like your steam shower. We've rarely used used the jacuzzi tubs in other homes and hope the steam shower is a good idea. The Bathrooms Forum was invaluable when we started thinking about the shower.

Thanks to all....now over to the Pool Forum

I think it's a great idea that you decided to take on some of this yourself. Having said that, I'd still tighten the screws on this builder quite a bit...

Explanation:
How much of a premium is he charging you for color paint? I have family members that are painting contractors and I can tell you, the only upcharge should be for changing colors, and that should be small. If you want a single color, it should be the same price.

I could beat those fixture prices all day long. I recommend you jump on ebay or google and save yourself 50% on fixtures.

Likewise, I don't know what kind of tile you selected but it seems to be very expensive. I'd bet you could shop it around and get better prices. (We have found price differences of over 300% on the same tile in our area.)

While it's smart to think ahead, it sounds like it's making your builder see dollar signs. Using the example you gave (extra framing in the toilet for grab bars), that would take a handful of nails, a 2x4, and about 2 minutes. No reason for an upcharge....they could probably use scraps laying around to do it.

I still think you're getting crazy plumbing prices. EXPENSIVE plumbers around here would charge $600/fixture. Assuming you have 5 fixtures (toilet, sink, tub, shower x2), that would be $3k. For grins, I'll include a 50% regional markup (although I think that would be high), that's still only $4500.

I might be out of line because I'm known for being strict with contractors but I think you have to be. Will let everyone else weigh in on it to see though.

nova.....that tile price seems outrageous!! Are you tiling the walls too? Is that the price the GC quoted? Tile subs around here charge on avg. $6/sf labor and backer board. You supply the tile.
Also, on the vanities. Have you cked out the local custom kitchen cab. makers? You can get custom cabs made for less than any brand name and probably better quality. I had custom cabs made for a kitchen on a house I built several years ago. They were over 9 grand less than what I was quoted at two big box stores and had more upgrades!

The tile prices are actually reasonable. You cannot use the standard sq ft tile prices when you are estimating the cost of a steam shower. That 25 square foot shower actually has 210 square feet of tile: 5x5 floor, 4x5x8 walls- assuming 8 foot ceilings, and the 5x5 ceiling. The tile guys charge more for a ceiling than they do a floor. We also don't know how many decorative tiles are in the bid - and there is an extra charge for those too.

The pricing you have (with the exception of the plumbing labor) doesn't surprise me for this area. I cannot comment on the plumbing because you did not list all of the tasks included.

It seems like you are doing the right homework. If you plan on living in the house for a long time (10 to 20 years) and it is in a great location - then spend the money. This NOVA area has always been great for real estate even when we have gone through tough times. You should get your investment back and then some when it is time to sell down the road.

The only caution I could offer is that remodels or additions are notorious for costing a lot more than what is estimated because you never know what you will find when they start the demo. A good friend of mine just finished his "6 month project" after 1 year of hell and it cost 30% more than what they estimated - that was 30% beyond all the contingency they had budgeted. There were a lot of surprises. Hopefully your addition is not anything like that one.

I think it is worth a premium if you have a builder who has a rock solid reputation of delivering the quality you want within cost & schedule. If you read the GW posts you will find that that is not the norm. We had a "great builder" too and he still finished 6 months late and we were over the budget + contingency we had estimated. And we were all over the budget right from the start - picking out everything before contract signed. One glitch (we had a few) can put you over the top in a heart beat.

BTW - the stories about the permits and issues with the county inpsectors is worth paying attention too. Our very first glitch came when the county made us put in a super silt fence for erosion control. That cost me 5 grand more than expected before we ever started on the house itself.

Good luck!

Thanks sniffdog. I was ok with the tile prices. Steam showers are much more "tile-intensive" than regular showers/tubs because one is tiling a cube.

The plumbing still has me bothered so we're meeting with the plumber tomorrow to walk through the job and gain a better understanding of the scope. He does have to extend all the plumbing from the current house to a maximum of 25 in the addition. Most of the work will have to be done in a crawlspace.

Although I plan to stay in the house as long as possible, one never knows what curve balls life may throw at them. So, we do have our eyes on resale. I agree that long-term NOVA's real estate values increase and retain value better than many places in the country. We have an acre "inside the beltway", 3 miles from Metro. It's a 30 minute drive to K St during a regular rush hour and 20 minutes from Tyson's. So, it's works well for a lot of commuters. I think we bought at a good time.

Our building permit was easily approved but we had problems with zoning. One side of the current house does not meet current setback requirements but it's grandfathered. Without looking at the building plan, Zoning turned us down. It took a meeting with me for them to realize we were expanding the other side of the house so setback remained the same. We had a bad few days but Zoning was very helpful once we met with building plans in hand.

We also have a stream on our property that the architects and builders thought might be an issue given the Chesapeake Bay Recovery Act requirements. I checked this with the County before I bought the house but nobody believed me so there was much debate. It's a non-perennial stream so not a problem. The County seems pretty helful when dealing directly with homeowners.

I cling to the knowledge that a year from now when the anxiety has faded, we'll be happy we did this. Beats Xanax.

If you are inside the Beltway - then your house value is sure to go up first when the dust finally settles. I remember too well the real estate crash in 91-92 in our area (just when I was selling - great!). 5 Years later you would have never known there was a crash.

It sounds like you have a great location to get to a large pile of jobs - and that is just goodness. 1 acres with a stream? Wow - that sounds great. I say spend away!

I would set the expectations a little differently. A year from now - that you are completely done with construction and 1.5 to 2 years until you completely recover from the ordeal :) Hang on - it's a wild ride but it is worth it.

Have contingency in your pocket BUT don't let the builder know you have it. When you interact with the builder never let on that you have more cash then what you told him you are borrowing. Watch that budget like a hawk , escpecially those 500 dollar here and 250 there upgrades which seem to pile up to thousands quickly. Complain to the builder on every cost overrun. Once they smell that you might have more cash, it is funny how the cost keeps going up. Have plenty of excedrin and/or wine on hand and you will be just fine.

nova,
I only have one tiny bit of advice on your Moen faucets. Make sure you touch them before you buy them because dependng on the finish Moen uses a lot of plastic parts in their shower bars. We've had to replace 4 shower bars because of design problems and finish issues. Moen was great about it and replaced everything at no cost even though it had been two years, but if you can prevent yourself the hassle I'd wholeheartedly recommend.
We moved from NOVA two years ago and I miss the area, not the traffic, but the area for certain.

Aggie,

Definitely take rsc2a's advice on the fixtures for your bath. I was online this weekend for my home (5 baths including 2 masters + an inlaw suite-all will have upgraded fixtures) and prices are all over the place for the exact same fixture!

When Mom built her house 3 years ago (everything is upgraded) she went round & round with her plumbing contractor-he was way overcharging for fixtures & she ended up buying them online & telling the contractor he could take the job & install fixtures that she bought (and she would only pay out for labor) or he could leave & she'd use a contractor who would do it her way. He stayed & she saved over 50% on her fixtures!

Before you buy from the plumber, try looking for your fixtures on efaucets.com and see what you can save. They have everything-faucets, showers, roman tub faucets, hand showers, sinks, toilets, countertops, etc. They've got all the major makers as well as the exclusive ones in pretty much all the styles offered by those manufacturers. I came up with a grand total of $5275 for all my baths put together and that was using the higher priced Kohler sinks & toilets (Memoir & Devonshire)& tubs, Moen and PricePfister faucets and showers.

rsc2a was right about ebay too, just make sure you are purchasing from a reputable company vs. someone who bought a fixture they couldn't return. And always pay through paypal as you've got protection in case the seller renigs on the transaction.

Good Luck!

Sorry...last post should have been addressed to novahomesick, (not aggie).

Everything is based on location, FYI the framing labor was less for my 4600 square foot house here in NC that was for your addition.