with proper sized ring shank & nail patterns you
should be ok.
on my inspections wrong sized nails and
incorrect nailing patterns lower strength
of walls. I've not seen screw & glue in my
hurricane area.

don't know about lumber choices in your area.

best of luck.

Screws vs. nails.

Oh I agree that screws are the better choice,
much stronger holding strength than nails.
just saying I don't see framers using screws
over nails in my area.

Doug Fir or Hemlock should be fine either way as long as the span charts are followed for ceiling beams and rafters. Hemlock or Hem-Fir is used all the time, it is not as strong as Douglas Fir which is why I mentioned span charts.

I like nails better. Screws have less shear strength. As far as straight walls, it depends on the framing contractor and whether or not he takes the time to crown the studs to keep them facing the same way, not many do.

In the Northeast the more important issue would be whether or not the lumber is kiln dried but that might be of less concern in your location.

There might be some advantage in using screws and glue but I have no idea what it would be. It certainly wouldn't be resistance to lateral forces (wind & earthquake); that would depend on how the sheathing is attached, not how the studs are attached.

The options seem more like up-selling to me.

personally I'd invest in simpson strong ties to carry
the load from rafters to slab.
not a bad investment in a hurricane zone!

best of luck op.

Is the glue and screw not referring to the sheathing and/or drywall attachment method rather than the framing attachment method? If so, then that would be a worthwhile upgrade to help with structural rigidity and reducing noise transmission. In addition to using strong ties at all appropriate locations for a seismic/high wind build. In a one or the other situation, erLA is correct that the strong ties would be the place to put the money.

"I like nails better. Screws have less shear strength."

Not if you pick the correct screw size.

And while nails have zero structural rating in withdrawal, screws can have decent number if needed.

The thing you need to avoid is hardened screws (like drywall screws).

They tend to fracture instead of bending.

I suspect the screw size would have to be pretty small to avoid splitting the wood and even then I suspect it might be a problem. I doubt most codes would accept screws in lieu of nails in framing and glue would serve no purpose so I suspect the OP is talking about drywall attachment. If so, screws are a must-have upgrade to ring-shank drywall nails whatever the cost.

As others have pointed out, the only effective way to prevent wind and earthquake uplift is with hold-down straps and other devices designed for that purpose.

"I suspect the screw size would have to be pretty small to avoid splitting the wood and even then I suspect it might be a problem."

That is what plot holes were invented for.

You can get shaped pilot bits that will also countersink or counter-bore at the same time they create a correctly sized pilot hole (both length and diameter, including shank clearance as required).

They are enough extra work to install that not many are submitted for testing to the labs.

A correctly selected and installed screw has far more strength than a comparable shank nail.

It is the increased labor that stops there use.

that surely would add time to the job. one to drill pilot
holes, one to come behind with drill & counter sink
screws.
extra tool, extra drill bits, extra time = higher cost.

around here it is difficult to get the trades to buy
ring shank nails for roof decking. occasionally
I run into new construction decking with staples.
usually in very rural areas where code inspections
aren't well enforced.
as this is always visible unless roofline is foamed
I always wonder how/who/if it is ever discovered
that the wrong fastner was used.

I also wonder how much better it would be to use
ring shanks on sheathing of walls, instead of just
on roof decking.
a step up from regular nails..a step below screws.
hmmm anyone seen a study on that?

one problem I have encountered with strong ties
is the wrong size nail being used..or less than
required nails being installed.
whenever I see this..I think that there is a job
for someone to verify nail type & size as per
spec'd by strong tie requirements.

and sometimes I speculate/think/wonder too_much!

the fastner is only as good as the nails that
hold it in place. quite a few fails out here in
hurricane alley. and who knows? not the
homeowner, and probably not even the installer.
cuz no one reads instructions.

and you all know how builders/frame carpenters/
trades just love someone else looking at their
work. LOL!

interesting thread even if it is just us regulars
talking among ourselves at this point...

Y'all have a safe & happy Memorial Day tomorrow!

For shear wall sheathing fasteners the important issues are diameter and ductility so common nails are usually preferred to less ductile screws and smaller diameter box, cooler and sinker nails. Clipped nail gun heads meet most codes but full nail heads are preferred.

The APA does not recommend screws for shear walls or diaphragms in high-seismic areas. Their testing has shown that nails tend to bend and withdraw slightly rather than breaking and failing completely.

Simpson Strong-Tie WSNTL Wood Screws are now accepted in CA except in the 3 highest Seismic Design Categories D, E, and F.

A good alternative is Stanley Bostitch HurriQuake ring-shank nails available in two diameters: 0.113 and 0.131

This post was edited by Renovator8 on Tue, May 28, 13 at 9:39

Not sure if you mean D. Fir vs. Hemlock for Floor Joists, but we were told D. Fir offers less "bounce" in the floor, which means less creaking of floor boards and "springy" feel (where running kids bounce ornaments clear off shelving across the room) ; ) Was worth the upgrade for me!

(and I'll stay out of the screw vs. nail debate)

Awnmyown, what???

The difference in deflection between those two species of wood at normal loading would not be measurable much less noticeable to the inhabitants. If you want less bounce, increase the depth of the joists, put them closer together or use stiff truss joists.