Shop Products
Houzz Logo Print
auroraborelis

Small things that get forgotten

auroraborelis
11 years ago

I keep hearing that most people find that there are small things that they didn't think about until after they finished construction that they wish they would have added into their build, and I was curious if all of you would like to help me to compile a list for all of us to consider during planning!

So far I have

- Plugs in kitchen pantry for charging, or for items that may end up living there

- Full size broom cupboard in pantry or laundry room to hide all the cleaning items away from sight.

- Solar tubes in areas that don't get natural sunlight

- Prewire security system

- Run wire and prepare roof for future solar

- Central Vac with vac pans

Any others to add?

Comments (199)

  • irishmimi
    9 years ago

    Consider your whole "wish list" and PLAN for things that you'll want to add in the future but can't afford now (like an outdoor kitchen, etc) and run lines for electric, gas, & plumbing

    Install high R-value insulation, windows & doors.

    Label your electric panel switches.

    Laundry room/closet (ideally located near the bedrooms, but could also be in a main bathroom or hall closet) w/ in/on wall folding ironing board, drying rack(s), shelves for laundry supplies and a "laundry hamper sorting station": space for 4 tall laundry hamper/baskets -- to pre-sort laundry into "whites", "darks", "colors (blues/greens)" & "colors (reds/tans/yellows)" -- when a hamper is full it's a load of laundry.

    Master Closet /Dressing room - space for an island, counter, or rolling cart on which to fold laundry as well as pack suitcases for travel.

    Never run out of hot water & save energy: install "instant" point-of-use tankless hot water heaters for each bathroom, kitchen, & laundry

    Install exhaust fans vented to outside for every bathroom & kitchen

    Extra shower features including a hand-held, rain head, steam

    Heated interior floors -- at least in bathrooms & basement

    Heated outdoor steps, porch, walkways. & driveway (if you get significant snow or ice in winter)

    Wire for tv/av equipment above fireplaces.

    For Christmas & other seasonal lights, install outlets for lighting at doors, below each window sill, near railings, & on mantels - think wreath, garland, "candles" etc placement & if/how you'll want to light it.

    PLAN landscaping that needs little watering and/or incorporates edible, sustainable, and energy-saving properties

    PLAN your landscaping lighting & watering -- if will you want to put "fairy lights" or other lights in your trees/bushes or on any balcony, porch, patio, deck, gazebo, fence, etc, you'll want a power source. Same for fountains (water pumps need electricity or solar power). Irrigation systems need power & plumbing.

    Rain barrels to help irrigate. Consider piping a Graywater system to recycle/reuse water from bath & laundry to your yard.

    Lights for paths & steps (a great safety feature)

    Motion detector security lights at gates & doors

    Timer switches & light sensors for all exterior lights

    Lighted house numbers

    Power for electric garage door openers

    Conduit below sidewalks & driveway to allow for future wiring/plumbing runs

    Correct slope & French drain in the driveway outside the garage doors

    Wire for alternative power source(s) -- solar, wind,

    Wire for a back-up generator (that can power refrigerators & freezers as well as heat/cooling plus some lights and/or small appliances in case of extended emergency situation).

    Roll-out drawers in kitchen cupboards

    Consider storage solutions for pantry, kitchen, & baths -- some things are easier at the build stage & some are fine as "later retrofits" by the owner.

    Roof windows/skylights/solar tubes to light covered porches and attics.

    If pool, lake, or beach living - a shower (outside or inside) near a back door. Where ever you live, a "foot bath" (shower/spigot) is great for sandy or muddy feet/shoes (even from normal gardening or play).

    Underground power lines (instead of poles) are safer & more attractive

    Install an indoor main shut-off for water (as well as the one at street -- you'll be glad you did if you have a water problem in bad weather or middle of the night)

    Especially in dry climates, consider a cistern or a well as part of your house plan

    Lower insurance cost -- locate your home as close as possible to a fire hydrant (make sure they are functioning - check w/ your fire department). Choose roofing & building materials that have excellent fire-rating.

    Every room needs an escape route. For all second story (or higher) rooms, plan a space for escape equipment like chain ladders (a window seat below or a wall cavity cupboard near the window or in a closet)

  • Alex House
    9 years ago

    If you live near forested land in a region where forest fires are known to occur, install rooftop sprinklers - very cheap. Bonus - you can turn them on when you see solicitors approaching your front door.


  • mrspete
    9 years ago

    This thread is an oldie but a goodie. I have several comments /tweaks to the things that’ve been presented:

    - If you did everything suggested here, I agree you’d be approaching the national debt. I mean, if you just put in outlets everywhere suggested, it’d cost you a month’s paycheck. Pick and choose wisely. Some of these ideas cost little and will add plenty to the function of your house, while others are just kind of questionable.

    - Instead of recessing your refrigerator – depending upon your layout – you might prefer to make your adjacent cabinets deeper (meaning perhaps 30” deep instead of the standard 24” deep). It gives you the same effect, but with different details. I’m thinking of going this direction because it would also allow my sink to sit in a slightly deeper cabinet, meaning that the faucets wouldn’t be so “crowded” to clean around. However, if you do this and have drawers, be sure that your builder makes your drawers go the full 30” deep – you don’t want to waste that extra 6” of space at the back of the drawer.

    - New tip, not bounced off any previous thoughts: I am definitely going with one of the new “one hole” kitchen faucets. I’ve always hated turning a sponge sideways or squeezing a dishcloth through my old-standard faucet. I love the idea of being able to reach around one item easily – and I love the idea of having a bit of space behind the sink so I can clean behind the faucet easily.

    - I disagree that a pantry is less convenient than kitchen cabinets. It may be a step or two further, but in a pantry you can SEE what you want immediately, and you don’t have to move anything around to reach the item you want.

    - Big thumbs up for Myron Ferguson’s book Better Houses, Better Living. Another thumbs-up for Don Aslett’s Make Your House Do the Housework.

    - I once thought central vac was a “must have” – I despise vacuuming. But since I got a Roomba, I’ve decided central vac isn’t worthwhile. Sure, you still need a “real vacuum”, but for everyday work, you can’t beat the Roomba. Additional perk: Unlike central vac, if your Roomba breaks or a better model comes out, nothing permanent is installed inside your walls. Additional, additional perk: I get no end of entertainment watching the dog challenge his mortal enemy, then run from him.

    - Several people have mentioned laundry shoots, proximity to closet, etc. I’m planning to get three large wheeled laundry baskets (they’re kind of vintage looking and fit into my design nicely – they’re expensive, but that’s okay), and I’m planning a linen closet in each bathroom with an open space in the bottom to sized to fit those baskets . . . then they can just wheel over to the laundry room. I’ll have one basket in each bathroom and one basket in the laundry room – and they can change places as they’re full /empty.

    - Grab bars in the shower have been mentioned. I’m using NO towel bars anywhere – it’s going to be grab bars all the way – towels can hang on the larger ones. They do cost more, but this is our retirement home, and the bathroom isn’t a place to skimp on safety. I’m also choosing to go with a tub-in-a-deck (rather than a dreamy clawfoot) because it’ll be easier to place a grab bar on the deck.

    - In my current house I have a “Christmas light switch”; that is, a switch that turns on the exterior outlet that controls the Christmas lights around the porch railing – and it’s wisely located in an oddball spot to the “wrong side” of the French doors. This means no one ever turns it on accidentally. In my next house, I plan to place this switch inside a closet adjacent to the front door.

    And a couple new ideas that aren’t mentioned here:

    - Everyone wants a cut-out niche in the shower for shampoo, etc. And usually they’re placed in the center of the shower with a pretty, coordinating tile that looks nice – until you fill them up with shampoo bottles. Then they just look junky. If you have a solid wall (or half wall) instead of all glass doors, put your niches IN THE WALL so that they’re not visible from the rest of the bathroom.

    - Bring the window above your kitchen sink all the way down to the counter. That’s an extra 6-8” of light into your kitchen, and who doesn’t want that?

    - Plan your dining room in such a way that your seating area can be extended when you’re hosting a large number of people. For example, our dining room is going to be a long, narrow room . . . and on the end we’re planning a little window seat – not attached to the table. But if we need more seating, we can extend the table AND we have a card table the same height as the dining room table – it will be able to scoot into the space between the table and the window seat, and all of a sudden the window seat IS the chair at the end of the table.

  • patty2430
    9 years ago

    When we built our house here in Central MN, we had in-floor heating placed in the lower (garden) level. Plumber told us that it wouldn't cost too much more to extend the hot water lines out to our detached garage. The cost really was minimal; and what a godsend to have our garage at a constant 40 degrees in the winter-- even today, when the temps are predicted for -25 and wind chills in the -40s.

  • Anne
    9 years ago

    This is such a good list, even the old posts! Is it okay if I link to my blog here? At the end of this post I link to another blogger's two posts on what upgrades to make and what ones to forgo, and I thought those lists (and the comments) were also really helpful.

    There was a lot of outlet talk on this thread but I didn't see anything about adding an outlet to a kitchen island (if you have one). Maybe it's just standard? It's a must for me. I'm also definitely putting an outlet in our bathroom cabinets under the sink, as others suggested.

  • Vith
    9 years ago

    Phone, cable, and 2 ethernet lines mounted in the wall at each room and living room so you don't have wires sticking up through the floor or out of the wall. Run all to a central location and label all wires (I ran all of mine to my furnace room and have the router and switch box there). With this setup you can connect whatever lines you are using from whichever room. I know a lot of devices are going wireless but many still use wired like DVR's and game counsels. I prefer my desktop computers to be direct wired anyhow.

  • Alex House
    9 years ago

    Regarding heating the garage with pex in the slab. Depending on your jurisdiction, as soon as you provide a means to heat the garage you change the space into potential conditioned space and have to build the rest of the garage to that standard. Further, even if you don't connect it, the building inspector may require you to build as a conditioned space because some future buyer may connect the system and they don't want the homeowner heating an uninsulated space.

    A heated garage is a "in for a penny, in for a pound" type of situation.


  • einajr
    9 years ago

    lots of great ideas. one i would add is a light switch connected to the outlet for electrical items (curling irons) - if you forget to turn it off at least you wont forget the light. Even the most expensive curling irons or flat irons do not have an automatic off after some time

  • Milly Rey
    8 years ago

    I know this is old, but I'm commenting to save it. :) I have to say, I'd never heard of the mosquito systems, and now I'm getting quotes!!!!

  • gr8daygw
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    We have two windows in the garage, one has a fan in it to draw the air outside away from the garage and a man door with a screen so the garage can breath. The nicest thing to add to your garage to make it so much more useful is a man door. I love being able to go outside to take the garbage to the street without having to open the garage doors. Also everyone loves coming in that way instead of having to go around to the front door when they park on the driveway apron (which we increased in size for extra parking and to be able to turn around easier). If I had known how popular it would be to enter the house through this door, I would have made it nicer with a covered entry and made the garage just a bit bigger to accommodate a pathway to enter the house.

  • live_wire_oak
    8 years ago

    Having any penetration to the garage from the house is against codes. It provides a direct route into the home for carbon monoxide, as well as a direct route for a fire. The garage house wall should be completely sealed, with a fire resistant door. If you heat or cool the garage, you are required to use separate units that serve only that space. Like a mini split. Or a separate loop of PEX for a hydrionic system. Because the PEX is encased in the slab, it doesn't violate the separation of the spaces.

  • dancestreetballroom
    8 years ago

    It may sound decadent but my fondest addition would be a separate bathtub room. It wouldn't have to be large - just enough for a tub with a surrounding shelf for candles, beverage, & book, & a place to stand to towel off and put on your warm, fluffy robe. It would be blissful to take a peaceful bath without looking at the cluttered sink counter, toilet that likely needs scrubbing, etc. A mini-spa getaway. Extra sound insulation would be nice, too, although I don't know how to keep the child from pounding on the door....

  • mrspete
    8 years ago

    Dance Street, a friend of mine has such a room -- and it isn't a large bathroom. The "front room" of her bath contains a modest vanity/sink and a toilet, and the "back room" is divided with a set of small French doors. The whole bathroom is done in a lovely toile wallpaper.

    What I don't understand is that instead of a lovely tub, the "back room" contains a fiberglass wrap-around shower-over-tub that you'd find in a tract house.

    It's a lovely set up.

  • Sonia Burrows
    8 years ago

    Wow, I actually read all of the posts here and the conclusion I came to was to contact an architect in your area to help you organize all of this. Unfortunately I didn't do that and now, after reading all of this, I'm trying to get my builder to incorporate some of these things........he's not happy with my last minute changes. I've been planning my "retirement home" for over 2 years now and thought I had everything I wanted, until I read this. Yikes, so much to think about that threw me for a loop.

  • deemore34
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    The best thing we put in was a hotwater loop. It comes off the hot water line and loops to all the faucets in the house. A small electric motor keeps the water circulating so that you have instant hot water at all faucets no matter how far away they are. It saves hundreds of gallons of water that would ordinarily be wasted waiting for hot water to come.

  • arialvetica
    8 years ago

    irishmimi: "Underground power lines (instead of poles) are safer & more attractive"

    I'm unaware of any electric utilities who will let you pick-and-choose your power lines.

  • omelet
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Electric utilities often do let the homeowner (or a neighborhood developer) choose underground power lines between the street and home. We chose underground because we are in a wooded area.

  • Ichabod Crane
    8 years ago

    All of the electric utilities I worked with always let you choose underground...for a price.

  • cpartist
    8 years ago

    Where I'm building now, underground are required. Any new build requires underground which is a good thing in FL

  • kristinmcgivern
    7 years ago
    An outlet on your mantel for lighted garland
  • lookintomyeyes83
    7 years ago

    arialvetica - our utility gives us the choice as well - underground is expensive and the base cost only covers half the length of our driveway.

  • PRO
    Plans by Marcy
    7 years ago

    Plans by Marcy

    I ran across this article just yesterday, and it is SO WORTH SHARING!, especially if you haven't built your house yet. All kinds of great way to sneak in extra outlets where you might not have thought to put them before!

    https://www.houzz.com/magazine/power-to-the-people-outlets-right-where-you-want-them-stsetivw-vs~21996157


  • astichick
    7 years ago

    Great article. Glad to have found it. I've read this from the beginning and agree with most of it. As we all know, each application is different but sharing these ideas will no doubt help the masses. Having grown up in a family of contractors, I have never really lived in a "used" house before. I have incorporated several of these ideas in the past. Outlets under the leaves with one connecting switch is an idea that I started using over 17 years ago. A few items that I would add, Having the builder save an extra bundle of shingles for you in the attic. This serves as repair material in case of roof damage as well as knowing the correct make and name of your roofing material if you need more than that bundle in the future. Extra bricks would not be a bad idea either, or maybe a few hardy board pieces. Depending on the material your house is made of. I believe every house should be constructed with handy capped excess ability in mind. A persons age has little to do with it. Little 12 year old Johnny could break a leg during ball practice and require a wheel chair for a short time. Without breaking the bank, you can make doorways, hallways and steps wider to accommodate wheelchairs. Entry ways with ramps could also be designed to not look so utilitarian. Also, don't forget not only the shower door opening but the threshold getting into the shower as well. Kitchen cabinets that go all the way up to the ceiling are also a great idea. Who really enjoys cleaning up there and the extra storage even if accessed only a few times a year is well worth it. Just because it is there, does not mean that you have to store your most often used dishes all the way up there. You can put party ware, less used small appliances, and such in the higher cabinets. I also think the kitchen looks much grander than the straight across cookie cutter cabinets of the past. Also, I saw a lot of mention of wall outlets mentioned but not the idea of putting the outlets in the baseboards. I use a taller beefier baseboard and put the outlets in that. When painting your base trim in a neutral white shade, the outlet blends in. In my opinion this just looks better when they are not sticking out like a sore thumb. This is also a great help when you are painting the walls in the future but not the base trim. No taking outlet covers off and putting back on again. Great time and energy saver. As with everything, no application serves all as well as no building codes or lack there of are the same. Common sense is key.

  • Pensacola PI
    7 years ago

    Lots of very good thought!

  • Renee Texas
    7 years ago

    astichick, one thing I'm so happy with was our builder left all the extra tile, flooring, carpet, shingles, granite, paints, etc. It was 5 years before we ran "out" of anything when touching up or repairing small issues, and once we did, we had all the origonal information and sample product when we wanted the same as what we had!

  • Sonia Burrows
    7 years ago

    Astichick I like the idea of kitchen cabinets to the ceiling (10 ft.) but that would have doubled my cabinetry budget. I did put in higher cabinets and as it is I can't reach the top two shelves and have to use a small stepladder.

  • astichick
    7 years ago

    Sonia, We actually have 12' ceilings but with the thick crown, the cabinets are really only a little over 11' We have dedicated cabinet makers that build directly on the wall which saves tones of money plus its easier to add details. Our guys only charge about another 15% to go all the way up to the crown. Agreed that if you are using boxed cabinets. it could get very pricey very fast. I only keep hardly ever used items up there. I keep a folding step ladder with attached tray in my pantry. When I have to retrieve something from up top, I use the tray to help with the load. Even if I never put a thing up there, I think just the look is worth the price plus the option is always there. Take care!

  • zorroslw1
    7 years ago

    One other thing is to have the registers on the wall painted the same color as the wall so they blend in rather than left white.


  • PRO
    Anglophilia
    7 years ago

    With the desire for all these electrical outlets, but sure the electrical box can take all that usage. It's often cheaper to add a 2nd box when building.

    If one can afford it, add a whole house generator, either run by natural or propane gas, depending on availability in your area. If you use propane, have a separate designated tank for your generator. During Hurricane Sandy, my son had one day of propane left when the propane truck finally arrived. If they hadn't sold the house, they would have added a 2nd tank for the generator.

    Also, if one has a sun porch, be sure to have an outdoor type spigot put on it so watering plants is a breeze.

  • D M
    7 years ago

    I second the 4 plug vs 2 plug. My Dad is an electrician so it took the poor guy forever while he waited for me to figure everything out. I put a 4 plug on my side of the bed for my laptop, phone charger, alarm clock and anything else that needed to go there. My husband's side just has a 2 because all he does is charge his phone. Also put a 4 on our entertainment wall for the TV, PS4, soundbar and whatever else. What I forgot to do of course was put in a 4 plug in my bedroom for all my media (TV, soundbar and Roku) so now I'm stuck unplugging things.

    If you like recessed lighting, don't bother with any flush or semi-flush lighting. I have recessed in my bedroom with a flush mount in the middle (if someone wants to put in a fan) and have only ever used the recessed. It's the opposite in my bedrooms and with the new CFL bulbs, I HATE it. I asked my Dad if he could wire recessed in there eventually.

    Also agree with Anglophilia. While we don't have one yet, my house was wired with the intention of having a separate generator panel.

    I personally would not pre-wire for solar. While it is becoming bigger now, I can count the number of homes in my area that have solar on one hand.

    Other than that, I don't feel there's much that we missed worth mentioning. My only regret, which really doesn't bother me much, is that I would have made my ensuite smaller and my main bath bigger. I didn't realize just how big my ensuite would be. But ... what can you do? You learn to live with it! :)

  • Vith
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    IMO, 4 plug is not needed in the TV or computer room with the proper surge filtering devices, aka Monster bar or battery backup (which is what your sensitive electronics need to take care of the minor surges which cause damage over time). Battery backup is the better option, especially for computers and DVR receivers, some of those quick on/off power outages are hard on the equipment. Hard to run a large flat screen when the power goes off, but lets you power it down normally instead of a hard shut off when the power goes off. (LED TV being the easiest on your electric usage, and time running on battery)

  • whaas_5a
    7 years ago

    Whole house surge protectors at the electrical box are not very costly and a good idea.

    I skipped the cost of USB and quad outlets. They make $3 adapters for that kind of stuff.

  • Vith
    7 years ago

    Whole house SPD does not address small surges which can damage sensitive electronics. They are meant for major surges coming from the power lines. Small surges can occur from inside the house from using appliances. Surge filtering (or power conditioning) strips take care of minor surges. Battery backups help for those short power outages as well, and they usually have the power conditioning built-in. Not needed for everything but computers and TV stations should have them.

    Just didnt want you to think you were totally protected with the SPD in the panel, it only works on major surges (which would damage almost everything in the house like light fixtures and appliances). The SPD in the panel is still a great thing to have.

  • whaas_5a
    7 years ago

    You bet I mainly did it for the appliances which have electronic components that are expensive to replace.

  • astichick
    7 years ago

    Oh, Oh,,, One more to add: I usually hang dry a good portion of my clothing, especially the nicer things. I was just in the laundry room hanging some clothes from the washer and thought it would be a nice idea to have a ceiling fan in there to circulate the air better. I'm heading up to the attic now to check out the ceiling joists. My husband will be so pleased to have another project. Wink.

  • Cindy Bennett
    7 years ago

    Prewire for future generator

  • susha
    7 years ago

    All great tips and tricks posted here to build comfort into your home. We have incorporated half switched(half hot) receptacles everywhere it seemed appropriate. There are times when we don't want to turn on the ceiling lights but maybe just the table mounted fixtures in a room sitting right next to the furniture. You could also chain them together so for instance if you like to turn on all the table lamps in the living room, you could do so with a light switch instead of having to go to every lamp and turning them on individually.

  • homepro01
    7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Susha,

    A better solution would be the Lutron lamp control. I like the caseta models a lot because they come with remote controls. I have always hated switched outlets.

    Good luck!

  • calliope223
    7 years ago

    Wonderful lists! We're redoing/updating what we did thirty years ago. I'll second a couple notes that others have added:

    1. Think about/plan landscaping as you do your interior improvements. We made an "outdoor room" with 2 custom trellis walls that dramatically expands the interior room to which it is attached. Same thing for the approach from the street. Make your walkway at least four feet wide, and consider having it even wider at the sidewalk/street. If it's going to be bordered by plants, make sure they don't intrude too much, or your guests will feel encroached upon as they walk up the walkway.

    2. Strongly consider designing stairs with a deeper step and a lower rise. Each step on our stairs is only 6 inches and the tread is 16 inches deep. It's a far more gradual and gracious "look" and safer as well.

    3. Yes, porches should be at least 11 or 12 feet deep. That allows for a table and chairs on both sides of the table. Otherwise you're only staring out into the landscape - there's no room for a sofa on the other side.

    4. Because it's an old house, the ceilings are high. Many of our doors are custom to take advantage of that - but I wish they were dutch doors. Then I could keep the dogs out of the master bedroom and the kitchen, but still be 'connected" to what's going on.

    5. Bathroom mirrors should have lights at the side, at eye level, NOT overhead, or there will be very unflattering shadows.

    6. I'm in a dry, southern location, and we need a whole house humidifier in the winter. It makes the house feel warmer, and prevents the wood floors and fine furniture from cracking.

    7. If you're putting in a soft water system, have a separate line for your outside hose bibs that is OFF the soft water. The sodium will kill the CA native plants.

    8. I think the air switches (garbage disposal switches next to faucet) are dangerous; I saw my older MIL about to push it as she was shoving stuff down the disposal. I've purposefully put my so that it require a stretch to turn it on-no one's going to do it by mistake.

    9. Don't put bushes smack up against the house. It needs space to breathe, and if you're not careful, the sprinkler water is going to hit the house. We had a very expensive repair bill because of that.

    10. I thought it was ridiculous to put in a whole house intercom connected to the phone, but it was a great idea. If someone rings the doorbell when I'm at the back of the house, I just pick up the phone in the room where I'm located to find out who's there.

    11. Do you really want a built in microwave? There's too many horror stories about the new microwave drawers, and when our built-in quit, I couldn't find another one the same size to fill the big hole. Now i'm putting it behind closed doors, in an upper cabinet so I can change it out when it quits. But if you have younger kids you may not want to-you don't want them to accidentally spill something hot on themselves if they have to reach too high to get it.

    12. Label each breaker and take a photo of your electrical panel. We labeled everything, but over time the writing faded.

    13. Make a house book!! Names and formulas of paint, what was the name of that tile? Printed pictures of all those photos you took during the construction/renovation



  • PRO
    Virgil Carter Fine Art
    7 years ago

    Small things that get forgotten: creative architectural design!

  • Rachael Cochran
    7 years ago

    Great thread! We are getting ready to build. We store large water barrels to use in case of an emergency. It is a pain to fill them and to empty and refill them every couple of years. We will be putting a hose bib and drain in our cold storage area to make this process almost painless. Also my pantry is next to the garage. I am having them put a small door from the garage into the pantry. This way I can load my groceries and large Costco items directly into the pantry from my car. Also my laundry room is next to our master closet. I will also have another small opening from the closet to the laundry room for laundry baskets. No more carrying laundry from one room to the next.

  • k10dall
    7 years ago

    This is so helpful. I am taking notes! Tons of things I had not thought of. Keep them coming!

  • zorroslw1
    7 years ago

    For above comment about 4 plug vs 2 plug. They make 4 plug converters , they plug into the 2 plug and voila, a 4 plug. So, if you put a 2 plug and later need it to be 4, use the converter. Find them at hardware or big box stores.

  • sprink1es
    7 years ago

    Don't go bare bones on your electrical circuits. My current family room is on a 15a circuit breaker. Laptops charging, TV going, stereo receiver or an Xbox... that was all fine until I bought a giant pre-lit christmas tree a few months ago. Plugged that in and BAM tripped the breaker. Couldn't vacuum while the tree was lit up... you get the idea.

    Think of your kitchen. Fridge and microwave are always on their own circuits, but my electrician gave me a 20a breaker for my kitchen outlets. A standard slow cooker uses roughly 2amps. I'm having a Christmas g2g and family is over, my 5 crockpots alone are in theory using 10a of my available 20a. Say I have a tv or a radio going... kids spill something and the wife plugs in the vacuum in there... heh heh heh

  • Architectrunnerguy
    7 years ago

    Having your house featured in a local homebuilding/design magazine and the article mentions everyone that had ANYTHING to do with the project right down to the guy who cleaned out the porta potty, EXCEPT for the architect.

  • Raymomd Joe Barwick
    6 years ago

    when running water pipes under the slab floor always run it in 2inc pvc with pvc 90 deg corners then pull pex pipe through it in case the pipes ever break you can just pull it out and replace and NEVER RUN WATER PIPE IN AN ATTIC IT WILL FREEZE AND RUIN YOUR CEILINGS AND ROOMS

  • Barbara Haselhorst
    5 years ago

    Wow...we're getting ready to build a house. The last house we built was in 1966. We have so much to learn, however, we have done a lot of remodeling and have learned a lot through that. Thanks for this fantastic thread!!

  • Chelette Payne
    3 years ago

    great ideas

  • Brett Corbett
    2 years ago
    last modified: 2 years ago

    I have dimmer switches in every room that is considered a living space. It is so nice to turn the lights down to a comfortable glow. Looks amazing too especially if you have Edison bulbs in some of the nicer looking lamps, sconces etc. Sitting down for an evening movie its perfect when you don't need full blast light and turning them off is too dark.

  • arialvetica
    2 years ago
    last modified: 2 years ago

    I have re-compiled the original list, adding recent suggestions.


    Closet & Organization

    • Outlets in closets
    • Make sure your closet has enough space for both double hung rods, and singles to accommodate long clothes
    • Full size broom cupboard in pantry or laundry room to hide all the cleaning items away from sight.
    • More closet/linen space than you think you'll need (one user suggested an island in the closet for packing suitcases or folding laundry)
    • Cubbies in mudroom with an outlet in each one
    • Motion sensor on pantry and closet lights
    • Plan where you’ll charge personal electronics (tablets, laptops, etc.)
    • Plan where you’ll park the vacuum (in homes with small children or pets, you may want to keep it near the eating areas).


    Bath

    • Outlet in master toilet closet for night light
    • Outlets inside vanity cabinets (upper and lower) in bathroom for dryer etc. (Consider making these switched outlets, so hot tools are more likely to be powered down when you leave the room.)
    • Heated towels racks
    • Don't caulk the bottom of your toilet to the tile, as it may hide leaks.
    • Make use of the pony wall in a bathroom by turning it into storage.
    • If you have a central vac system, add vac pans for hair in bathroom.
    • Appliance garage on counter
    • Laundry access via master closet, and a second laundry room
    • Exhaust fans vented to outside
    • Consider shower/tub preferences e.g. thermostatic valve, hand-held sprayer, steam
    • Grab bars and easy tub/shower entry for aging family members
    • Shampoo niche in shower where it is only visible once standing inside shower
    • Eye-level side lights are more flattering than overhead lights.


    Outdoor

    • Run conduit under the driveway for future wiring or plumbing needs
    • Prewire speakers both indoor and outdoor (this 9-year-old suggestion may be outdated now, as more speaker brands offer wireless systems)
    • Ensure you have hose outlets and power on all 4 sides of your house, and on top of any raised areas
    • Hot/cold outdoor water is good for washing pets
    • Motion sensor pre-wire for selected exterior lights
    • Keypad entry on garage door (Keypad entry on front door is great as well, both are easy to retrofit)
    • Gas line to grill
    • Lighted outdoor pathways and steps
    • Illuminated (or highly visible) house numbers to ensure EMTs and packages arrive safely
    • If your electric utility and budget allow, request underground distribution lines, rather than above ground poles.


    Kitchen

    • Outlets in kitchen pantry for charging, or for items that may end up living there
    • Recess the fridge, or make adjacent cabinets deeper, so cabinet faces sit flush with body of fridge
    • With deep islands, put cabinets on both sides. While they are not easy to get to, they are good for storing seldomly used items.
    • Built-in paper towel holder
    • Custom storage organization in kitchen drawers
    • Warming drawer in dining room
    • Pantry entrance near both kitchen and garage
    • Rough-ins for both gas and electric appliances
    • Pantry door on swivel
    • Pantry light on motion sensor
    • Copper tubing for your ice maker from the freezer and until it's out of the kitchen wall
    • Drawer microwave
    • Knife drawer
    • Pull-out garbage/recycling/laundry (for dirty dish towels/napkins/bibs!)
    • Paper towel holder in drawer slot
    • Drawers for all lower cabinets (more efficient use of space)
    • Two soap pumps at sink (one for hand soap, one for dish soap)
    • Easy-access place to store frequently used appliances
    • place to hang hand towels & aprons
    • Exhaust fans vented to outside
    • For windows above counters, maximum height possible
    • Plan dining seating area to be expanded when hosting large number of guests.
    • Locate garbage disposal switch in a way that someone could not possibly turn it on while someone’s hand is near the unit.


    Electrical & Plumbing

    • Prewire security system & cameras
    • Run wire and prepare roof for future solar
    • Run a 2" PVC pipe up from the basement to the attic for future wiring needs, some suggested double conduits.
    • Separate 20-amp circuit with outlets at waist height in garage to plug in tools
    • Separate 20-amp circuit for TV and a/v equipment (this 9-year-old suggestion may be outdated now, as modern televisions are not quite so power-hungry)
    • Identify areas for low voltage rack (this 9-year-old suggestion may be outdated now, as alarm systems, network servers, modems, and routers are more compact)
    • Prewire speakers both indoor and outdoor (this 9-year-old suggestion may be outdated now, as more speaker brands offer wireless systems)
    • iPad controllers in the walls to control whole house music systems (this 9-year-old suggestion may be outdated now)
    • Pre-wire for generator to essential areas
    • Carbon monoxide unit on the wall upstairs
    • Make sure plumbing in bathrooms is done correctly. One commenter's toilet was placed too close to the tub pipes so they couldn't get the deeper tub because they didn't allow room.
    • Cast iron pipes for the plumbing drops from the second floor cuts down on noise
    • Take pictures of all the walls before drywall goes up, so you know where all the wiring and studs are located.
    • Include a 220V to garage (tools, future electric car etc)
    • Measure the location of anything under the slab, and various utilities out in the yard.
    • Run an electrical line with a few floor outlets, particularly in open floor plans. It may be best to have floor outlets just outside your planned rug area.
    • Plumb for outdoor drinking fountain.
    • Tankless water heater with recirculating lines.
    • Label electric panel switches, and if you prefer items to be grouped in a certain way, discuss with electrician before they begin.
    • TV outlets at appropriate height (for TV to be centered at eye-level when seated on a sofa, outlets should be ~42” from floor – note that TVs mounted above fireplaces are not ergonomic – with a standard mantel height of 54”, TV ends up centered ~70” from floor).
    • Water main shut-off valve in case of plumbing emergency.
    • Whole-house surge protector at electrical box for major power surges, but sensitive electronics like TVs/computers should be plugged into power strip surge protectors.
    • Exhaust fan in laundry room for faster air-drying, and eliminate odors if you air-dry sport equipment.


    Lighting

    • Light switch to the attic in the hallway (and remember lights in attic in general)
    • Solar tubes in areas that don’t get natural sunlight
    • In-cabinet lighting
    • Make sure you check the cost ratings of ceiling fans
    • Check all remotes for ceiling fans prior to construction completion
    • 3 way switches where helpful
    • Master switch from master that controls all exterior lights
    • A master switch at each exit (front, back or garage), that turns off all of the power to the switches/lights in the house, so that you can turn off all lights without going to each room and/or light switch.
    • Timer switches and light sensors for selected lights, both interior and exterior
    • In general, recessed lighting for function, pendant lighting for form. If you run ceiling fans frequently, be aware that a ceiling fan will give your recessed lighting a strobe light effect.
    • Dimmer switches in rooms where you may enjoy low-lighting.


    Master

    • Quad outlets near the bed in the master
    • Light switch at the head of your bed so you can turn out the light once you are in bed.


    Holiday

    • Exterior holiday light outlets under eaves, with a switch inside to turn on and off.
    • Interior holiday light outlets: over cabinets, in stairway, in porch ceiling, under eaves, fireplace mantle
    • Enough storage for Christmas decorations
    • Seasonal closet with hangers for wreaths, and space for rubbermaid storage boxes.


    Heating, Cooling, and Vacuums

    • Central Vac with vac pans, if you have hardwood floors get a Hide A Hose (This 9-year-old suggestion may be outdated, as some homeowners prefer robot vacuums over central vac units.)
    • Hepa filtration for allergy sufferers
    • WarmFloors heating
    • Zoned heating/cooling
    • When choosing thermostat/vent locations, plan ahead for furniture/art. Don’t let the builder decide without your input.
    • Install high R-value insulation, windows, and doors.
    • Wall vents painted wall color, rather than left white.


    Overall

    • Make Your House Do the Housework by Don Aslett - https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/590386
    • Better Houses, Better Living: What To Look for When Buying, Building or Remodeling by Myron E. Ferguson - https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/206474
    • Receptacles for fire extinguishers. Maybe plan some cutouts so they are flush to the wall.
    • Pocket doors where possible
    • Secondary dryer lint trap http://www.reversomatic.com/category/Accessories-Catalogue/Lint-Traps.html
    • Soundproofing where needed
    • A phone by the door leading into the garage for those pesky calls when you are getting in or out of the car (This 9-year-old suggestion may be outdated now, as more homeowners forgo landline phones.)
    • An inside button to open and close your garage door for when guests arrive and it's raining. (This 9-year-old suggestion may be outdated now, as it’s easy to retrofit WiFi-enabled garage door openers that you can open via app.)
    • Additional support during framing on the top side of windows for curtains
    • Power outage flashlights and keep in outlets around the house. Recess these into the space with each fire extinguisher.
    • Mailbox sensor to alert you whenever your mailbox is opened so that you're not running out of the house checking for mail when it's not there.
    • Ensure builders don't "box" off spaces, where storage or shelving could go
    • Make copies of manuals prior to installation and give the builder the copies so you can keep the originals. (This 9-year-old suggestion may be outdated now, as it may be preferable to save digital manuals, as they are easier to search when troubleshooting an already-installed appliance.)
    • Minimal walls, and lots of windows.
    • A laundry room. Not just a hall, or closet, a room.Plan for how laundry gets from hampers to laundry room (e.g. chutes, cart)
      Laundry room/closet (ideally located near the bedrooms, but could also be in a main bathroom or hall closet) w/ in/on wall folding ironing board, drying rack(s), shelves for laundry supplies and a "laundry hamper sorting station": space for 4 tall laundry hamper/baskets -- to pre-sort laundry. When a hamper is full it's a load of laundry.
    • Spindles and handrail made that can be removed for moving furniture
    • Handicapped accessible.
    • Plan an elevator shaft in case you want to install one later, in the meantime it will serve as storage closets.
    • Plan ahead for wish list items, and rough-in lines for electric, gas, plumbing
    • Anticipate where guests will enter your home after parking, and make that entry comfortable. Guests will take the shortest possible path from their car to the home (often entering through garage or side door), rather than walking around to the official “front door.”
    • Make a “house manual,” including paint brands/formulas, tile brands/styles, etc.


    Pets

    • Plan a specific place for pet food.
    • Place for the kitty box, including an exhaust fan.
    • Place for dogs to be bathed.
    • Place to store dog crates.


    Regional considerations

    • Ante-room, with coat racks and shoe storage, and a way to keep the heat in.
    • An entrance to the basement from outside for salt delivery, repair men etc so they don't track through your house.
    • Storm shelter to weather the threats your area faces.
    • Mosquito system http://www.mistaway.com/watch-the-mistaway-video.html and http://www.mosquitonix.com/mosquitonix
    • Covered niche for bear spray at/near each entry.
    • Drain in the garage to get rid of the excess water quicker from vehicles after it snows
    • Pest line (brand name Taexx) a small tube is run around the perimeter of the home through the framing, and then pest control can spray within it.
    • Heated outdoor walkways, steps, driveway
    • Whole-house generator if your area regularly has power outages that last more than 24 hours. Connect to natural gas line or propane tank. Separate electric panel.
    • Footbath or shower, if your backyard activities (e.g. pool, beach) will require a rinse before re-entering the home
    • Plan landscape lighting and irrigation (consider choosing plants that thrive in local zone without additional irrigation)
    • In dry climates, rain barrels to help irrigate, greywater system to reuse household water to irrigate; cistern or well
    • If forest fires are a risk, install exterior rooftop sprinklers
    • For northern climates, heat the garage (pay attention to local ordinances to ensure heating garage doesn’t require finishing garage as a “living space”).
    • For rural areas, do not have any windows in the garage. Instead of getting stuck in the garage and banging on windows, flies and bees will exit through tiny daylight cracks.
    • For dry climates, a whole-house humidifier.
    • For hard-water areas, a whole-house soft water system. (Hose bibs should not use softened water, as it can harm plants.)