We bought them. We are still building, though, so I can't say if I like them. They look good to me.

They look nice Jdez!

Well thank you robynstamps.

We have Low-E 366 glass in most of our home...

Originally we went with Low-E 366 only on our SW/West upstairs windows, but due to some changes we were able to switch out any of the other SW/WEST/NW windows to the Low-E366 glass.

We have a ton of glass, and it keeps us from cooking.

As a side note last year we had a casement window sash unit replaced under warranty, the replacement was mistakenly ordered as standard Low-E2 glass. This was in a combination window so the picture window right next to it was still Lo-e3 366 - when it was replaced you could barely tell the difference - I could feel a bit more heat through it, but the light and color were almost impossible to tell the difference - we did have them switch it to the correct glass, but it was quite interesting to see how close the two types were side by side.

Here are 3 windows in our kitchen that are 366 glass

I'm so happy I saw this (ok, I'm about 5 months behind, but still...). Was having some concerns about having to use low-e 366 glass but this looks great in your photo. Nice kitchen, too! Thanks!

I have to point out that window flashing is important, few builders or designers know how to do it right, and JDez's picture seems to be an example of how not to do it. Hard to tell but the WRB should be lapped over the top flange and the bottom flange should not be taped over.

This post was edited by Brian_Knight on Wed, Aug 6, 14 at 14:43

I agree with flashing being very important, and
that few do it correctly.
I'd be willing to bet that the stine housewrap is cut in
a big ol X for window to be installed.
(we have stine in my area...where ya at jdez??)

flashing tapes make proper flashing easier, but
even tape is applied sides first..top over sides
and bottom left open for any moisture to escape.

more than low e 366...I look for solar heat gain coeffieient
& u-value numbers. these numbers should be on nfrc sticker
on all windows that are independently tested.

best of luck

Great point! The energy codes have different requirements based on climate. Dont assume your window supplier, builder, or designer is looking out for your best interests here if its a point that has not been brought up.

The observation of the big ol X is spot on. The newer method of "modified I" cut would be apparent by diagonal tape off the top corners. Not saying it wont work but there is no way that huber Zip tape is approved with that particular WRB. The apparent taped over crinkles and button caps is giving bulk water an open invitation to come inside. Probably safe to say this builder did not give the water an easy escape path (sloped, flashed rough sill). Even if it doesnt leak through the flashing tape, eventually the seal between frame and window will probably leak and when it does it will rot the framing below.