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kate102_gw

Ballpark cost to build in coastal NC (not OBX)

kate102
14 years ago

We're hoping to build a two-story 3000+/- s.f. home in a rural area, on crawl space, Hardiplank,regular shingle roof, nothing too fancy inside (semi custom cabinetry in kitchen and 2.5 baths, one fireplace, 3 BR, floors would be a combo of hardwood, tile, and carpet). Possibly geo-thermal if it makes financial sense, hopefully Marvin-quality double hung windows. I hope this isn't too crazy a question because I know many, many things must be taken into consideration. Just looking for a general idea.

Comments (16)

  • tn1978
    14 years ago

    We are building in a different region(PA) but our specs are very similar.

    2916 Sq Feet, 9 foot basement foundation, Pine flooring everywhere, Semi-custom kitchen (beaded inset, painted), About 15k for appliances, Anderson 200 Series windows, Geothermal, alot of site work, septic, and well. Price came in around 120 a square foot for everything.

  • mdfacc
    14 years ago

    As you note, the costs depend on many things. See Carl Helmann's website for a wealth of info and useful links. I also recommend Amy Johnston's "What Your Contractor Can't Tell You."

    Nationally, land costs are about 25% of housing prices, but that varies. In most Cincinnati suburbs, it's less than 20%. Of construction costs excluding land, 1/3 is labor, 1/3 materials, and 1/3 builder overhead and profit.

    In Ohio, median costs are $90/sf, and a Cincinnati GC will build a higher-end home for Bigkahuna, a GW poster, helped a friend erect an owner-builder house for $115/sf. It had very nice finishes and is a very sharp home, though not as high-end as a typical Jack Arnold design. You can find pics on GW.

    You can minimize costs w/ 2-story design, simpler roof lines w/ low pitch, dimensions in multiples of 4, depth

    Here is a link that might be useful: Carl Heldmann's Website

  • mdfacc
    14 years ago

    I forgot that Bigkahuna's $115/sf house was 1-story, which costs much more to build than comparable 2-story. A 2-story w/ same materials would cost about $96/sf or less. Also, that house had custom cabinets and lots of hardwood floors, so your plan should be cheaper still--in terms of construction costs--but that was price for owner-builder.

  • david_cary
    14 years ago

    I think in your area $100 to $110 is reasonable. Of course $ per sq ft is not a great measure but it does help.

    Big variables are site work, well/septic, permit/design costs (this was $15k for me but could be $2k or less for you).

    I'm a broken record - geothermal is likely not worth it with your mild temps. Imagine a savings of $200 a year - not that impressive is it?

  • xine
    14 years ago

    What is the cost of new construction in your area? We are building in North Charleston, SC for just under $100/sq foot for 3300 sq feet two story. We have some hardwood floors, upgrade carpets, upgraded cabinets, but basic lighting and plumbing fixtures. That's on a 1/4 acre in a subdivision.

  • iamsum
    14 years ago

    like everyone else says, assume on average $100 a sqft. If you shop smart you might hit $75 at minimum and there really isn't a ceiling on price since you can spend untold amounts on kitchens and baths.

  • live_wire_oak
    14 years ago

    Your version of "nothing too fancy" is all pricy upgrades. Semi custom cabinetry alone in an "average" kitchen will cost you 15-20K, and that's for not many upgrades at all. Still, that's a lot more than the 5K builder grade style cabinetry. Hardiplank is a big upgrade in most places and with most builders. Fireplaces can cost you 50K per fireplace if you're talking traditional masonry chimney, or they can cost you 7K with a direct vent and nicer install. They're both considered upgrades. Geo thermal will cost you 60-90K to have done. DIY, you might manage it for 25 or so. Marvins are upgrades windows too, but it depends on the series how upgraded you're talking.

    I wouldn't think you could build a custom home with those features for less than around $130 a square, even in the South. Where I am in the South, $100 a square barely gets you hardwood floors and a separate tub and shower in the master. ANd that will be on a postage stamp lot in a builder's "upscale" subdivision (basically means that there is a 2000 square foot minimum with a brick front), not a true custom build.

  • david_cary
    14 years ago

    live wire oak is right about pricy upgrades but he exaggerates a bit.

    The cabinet price is a bit much. We were at about $15k with lots of drawers (all FE, soft close and full wood) and it is a large kitchen with a double island. There is crown, 48 inch wood hood, plywood construction, all exposed end have panels, custom spice rack, custom panels on dishwasher drawers and warming drawers, and glazed. So there are few people that say we don't have many upgrades and that it is an "average" kitchen. We got a good price for sure but still.

    Nearly every house has a fireplace and the standard would be direct vent (these are about $1k) and a nothing special surround (like tile and wood). Geothermal is generally overpriced but I was hearing numbers like $40k (for 7 tons which you wouldn't need).

    But he's right that $100 doesn't get you much extra. I would say Marvin windows are extra. Hardi I think is pretty standard.

  • mdfacc
    14 years ago

    David Cary: Where did you buy your cabinets? It sounds like you got a very good deal.

  • david_cary
    14 years ago

    Executive cabinets out of SC. It may have been a bit more with the wood hood and butler's pantry but I was quite happy. We just kept adding things and I was concerned the total was going to get out of hand. We have 8 deep drawers. All our 36 in bases, we split the upper drawers into 2. 42 in high uppers. Moderate crown and light rail. Frameless too.

    We saved on doing the more recessed door panel - I am blanking on the name - as opposed to when the center of the panel comes out to flush with the sides..... The doors were otherwise intricate (not the cheapest style at all) and maple. Islands are stained but perimeter is painted ($).

    I have meant to get on the kitchen forum and rave about these cabs for the price. We were looking at Kitchencraft and we saved over $10k - I say over because we came in at $10k less after we loaded up on the options. We had Kitchencraft in our last house and these are in every way better. The best is that KC's uppers are a little shallow and we had to put our big plates just right with the glass door to be able to close it. KC was cheaper to customize (like $75 a pop) but in the end, we got things to fit in stock sizes.

  • mdfacc
    14 years ago

    I hope I can do so well. Congrats on the shopping success.

  • kate102
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Thanks very much for all of this info. We own the land outright. As we do our research, which consists of shopping in stores and on-line as well as reading whatever we can, i.e. Fine Homebuilding and newer books from the library, we're seeing prices like $300-400 a linear foot for semi-custom cabinets (all plywood boxes), so if we have 25 feet of cabinetry, which would be enough I think, there's 10,000. Would we typically add another $10,000 for installation of those cabinets? Appliances should come in at 8,000 +/-(always looking for brand opinions, and yes, we've been reading the kitchen forum--it's extremely valuable). We're totally on the fence about geothermal and will have to research it very carefully. We've been told $40,000. Hardiplank is commonly used in the area. Fireplace will be gas, direct vent.
    If a bid came in from a builder we've checked out and feel we can work with at $125/sf, and we said "we'll sign on the dotted line now if you'll build this house with these specs for $115/sf," would we be out of line? Is it common practice to "bargain" (if that's the right term)? As you can tell, we are newbies for sure and very much appreciate all the advice you give.

  • mdfacc
    14 years ago

    Every transaction is negotiable.

    I suggest reading Amy Johnston's "What Your Contractor Can't Tell You." You'll find it very valuable. She is a project manager that deals with contractors of all stripes.

    Get very thorough plans that describe your project in detail, then put them out to bid with five competent contractors. As long as you've selected only contractors that will do a good job, and as long as you review the bid to make sure nothing was missed, then you can accept the low bid.

  • david_cary
    14 years ago

    mdfacc - I doubt you could 5 competent contractors (let alone 5 contractors) to bid in the OPs neck of the woods...

    Install is typically like $2500. Cabinets are all over the place. I hate linear feet (it is just like cost per sq foot). A 2 door cabinet that is 36in will not cost $1200 but a 36 inch cabinet with 6 drawers might. You really need upper length and lower length, number of drawers, and on an on. 3 12in cabs is much more expensive than 36in cabs which also complicates the linear foot pricing.

    As you become more knowledgable, you learn what you like and how expensive it all is.

    Some typical upcharges - glazing 10%, painted cabs - 10%. Oh you like painted and glazed - 20% so your $400 a linear foot has become $480.

    A basic plywood 24 inch box with basic doors might cost $500 (or $250 a linear foot). But change it to FE/soft close drawers with dovetailed wood boxes, make it drawers instead of cabinets, paint, glaze and a more complicated door and you could easily be at $1200 for the same 2 feet from the same manufacturer. I've seen even higher end places strip the cabinets to get a decent linear foot price and you get what you pay for....

    BTW - turns out my cabinet manufacturer went out of business so maybe it wasn't such a good deal since I will probably have to custom make any replacement doors....

    My take home is that you can easily get by with $10k but you might be at $15k without trying very hard. $8k in appliances is a decent budget for what you are shooting for.

    I think the best bet with a builder is to negotiate a fixed profit amount and have final say on all contractors. Rebid anything you don't like - or come one here and see if we think it is reasonable. I can always send you some subs from Raleigh if your bids are outrageous... This model does require that you trust your GC not to rip you off with kickbacks. I think going from $125 a sq foot to $115 is a big chunk out of a GC's profits. I can't remember what your build size was but let's say for the sake of argument that he can build at $110. So at $125, he makes a decent amount, do you really think he'll be happy (or adequately compensated) at $115. You are not cutting 10%, you are cutting 66%.

  • mdfacc
    14 years ago

    Personally, I would only accept a fixed-price bid. The price determination in a cost-plus contract is not transparent to the owner, and the agreement does not provide the GC with an incentive to control costs.

    Five bidders is ideal. Johnston recommends five because, in her experience, two usually drop out without completing a bid. Obviously, you work with what is available.

    Contractor bids may vary significantly. One may enjoy cost advantages to another, or be willing to accept lower margins. Competition always benefits the buyer.

  • kate102
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    I'm sorry for seeming to have dropped off without thanking everyone for their advice. We are still talking to builders and still doing our homework in terms of shopping for specifics in terms of cabinets, flooring, appliances, windows, etc. You all gave good advice and I am very appreciative. We bought the Johnston book, too ($3.00 on the internet).