DCRanger--the link just goes to the Google Docs page. Could you post it directly on the thread? Here's a quick how-to reminder in case you need it:

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The link to the plan doesn't work.

Using a 9 in 12 roof pitch instead of 8 in 12 might add 4% (or less) to the cost of the roof because the rafters don't get any deeper but they get 4% longer and the sheathing, underlayment and roofing gets 4% larger in area. To increase the pitch from 9/12 to 10/12 would add about another 4%. That should tell you that that this is not the first place to try to save cost. I doubt that a hipped roof would be a major savings either.

I would start with what I like, then start the cost savings exercise with the internal hidden elements and work toward the external visible elements. This requires a greater knowledge of structural, framing, and construction alternatives and their cost so it is often ignored by homeowners and inexperienced designers.

Tell us more about the structure and regulatory requirements. It's too soon to compromise on the roof design.

Sorry - Try this link.

If I paste it as a image, the pdf fidelity is really degraded.

Renovator - I truly appreciate your inputs because I know you know what you're talking about. Based on our budget and some of the other elements that go into preparing an undeveloped building site, the plan right now is to start with a 8/12 pitch and go from there. We'll have 9 ft ceilings throughout, possibly vaulted in the living room and see how that looks. I don't have any elevations at this time to work with so it's a little hard to determine what if any changes to make. I certainly don't want to "over-pitch" or "under-pitch" it. This house will be sitting up on a knoll in the middle of a field, with a nice forest 30 yards behind (North) as a backdrop. I know I can't afford nor desire an 12/12 pitch and I'm not even sure that would look appropriate on the site. I think you would agree, as long as it's pleasing to the eye while satisfying the structural code and design elements, then we should be good to go. I won't have any elevations to look at until our draftsman gets his hands on them since none were provided by aj33 or Summerfield. If someone was willing to enter these dimensions in some design tool, that would be very much appreciated.

And before I forget to mention it, the other issue that I'm dealing with is that my builder and draftsman live 700+ miles away near the build site. I'll retire from active duty in Sep. We're planning on having the house completed to move into when I get out.

Here is a link that might be useful: Summerfield House Plan

Here you go :)
{{gwi:1408449}}From Kitchen plans

Thanks Lavender

This might sound stupid, but we're wondering if there's an elegant way to reduce the sq footage by 5% or even 10% without screwing up the flow and overall design, realizing that spaces, doors, hallways, appliances can't give much and still remain functional.

We calculated the sq ft to be roughly 2300 so even a 5% reduction would save considerable construction costs while allowing us to put the funds to better use.

If you're not doing the wrap around porch in front...what about taking the end off the master bath and making that even with the rest of the house? You won't need the access from the bedroom to the porch, so that could be a window and shrink the closet a bit and reconfigure the bathroom. On the other side, take one foot off each bedroom (width wise) and shrink a foot or two, from the hall bath.

In the living area, if you're not putting the cooktop on the island, you don't need such a big island. Take a foot off the kitchen and living room and that should be close to what you need, to shrink the house, without losing too much living space. Hope that helps :)

Lavender -Good inputs. We were thinking the same on the master bath of sliding that down. Since we're not having a door from the master closet to the study, that entire wall can now be shelves or hanging space so condensing the master closet is no big deal. Good idea about reducing the size of the island and the other bedrooms and hall bath. Thanks.

You know...one other thing. If the front of the house faces south and you're not going to have the porch in front of the bedrooms, have you thought about making those two small windows into one big window seat? Each bedroom would benefit from the extra storage and seating. You could make it feel 'built in' by putting bookcases on each side of the window, however tall you wanted them. Shorter bookcases feel more open, but taller bookcases (maybe with cabinets on the bottom) will give you more storage.

Also, in the garage...if you're in a cold climate, I'm guessing your furnace and water heater will have to be in a basement of cellar, or at least a more heated space. Do you know where those are going to go? This would give you more room to move that bedroom closet down (swap it with the furnace space) and maybe trim the little bump out (where the closet is now) off entirely.

When I helped my mom look for a manufactured home (cold climate/all one floor) the water heater is usually in a corner of the closet, believe it or not, with a removable panel. You don't need to access it, unless it needs repairs. I suggest you put it on an outside wall, though, for drainage. The furnace is usually in the laundry room, or maybe a mud room. Just some ideas...

Lavender - You're full of great ideas! We'll have a basement and put all the mechanicals and geo-thermal there so that space in the garage could be used like you say for extra closet space or to slide it down and allow a window seat. Those really add character and depth to the room. If it's affordable we just might have to consider it. I still like the front porches, but those can get pricey too.

I started a list of specs and changes going to our builder tomorrow. He saw the plan and he's really excited about it, more so than our original. We can't wait to get started. Thanks very much!

Lavender Lass' talking about the garage made me notice something... from what you've posted, this will be the forever house for you two. You will likely want to take into account the need for ease of walker/cane/wheelchair access if needed at some point in the future. You will need to go through and make sure all the door/doorways & halls are at least 3' wide (I prefer at least 3.5' for the halls, myself). Also, I'd look into doing a curbless shower with at least a 3' door into it in the master bath if at all possible. Lastly, I'd see if you can eliminate the stairs up into the house from the garage (in some areas this violates code, in others it does not, some builders don't like to do it even if it meets code,--something worth checking into and if you like the idea and it meets code, insist on it with the builder.) Now is the time to plan for those what ifs. Just some things to consider before you break ground.

mydreamhome - Thanks for the inputs. Yes indeed the 3' wide halls and doors are part of my requirements. I hadn't thought about the steps from the garage but will discuss with DW and our builder. Being that we're building on a basement, that might be difficult but doable. It means having to excavate deeper ($$$) so we'll have to see. Curbless showers sound like a good idea too if it's possible. I really appreciate it.

Still waiting to hear from Summerfield via email. He/she must be pretty busy as I know others have had a hard time getting in touch with him.

I think if you cut the bath off that saves you some sq ft and also a jog in the foundation which should save you some. Porches costs about 3/4 of finsihed interior space so cutting down on porches would save you some too.

I like the plan overall, but not the entry to the master through the front door entry. I would want the study where the master is and the master in the back with an entry hall between the dining/living into that area so I wouldn't have to walk through the entry to get to it.

This is only if you REALLY need to cut back on more square feet...but do you plan to use both of the 'left side' bedrooms as guest rooms? Not as roomy, but you could take off that second (far) bedroom and move the bath to the right, into the hall space. You might need to add a few feet to the remaining bedroom to make it all fit, but that would also give you an extra foot or two, in the mud room and laundry.

Also, Lyfia makes a good point. If your view is going to be out the back...maybe switch the master bedroom and study. You might need Summerfield to help you draw it all out, but that would open up the idea of having the master bedroom access the back porch, which might be nice, especially if you screen it.

Hopefully Summerfield will be back soon :)

View is nearly equal but the study looks at the woods 30 yards behind the house and is in a peaceful location, so we will not change the layout. Both gust bedrooms will be utilized and so we'll keep both.

Summerfield and I are in contact...yeah! we'll see what he comes up with. Thanks!