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worthyfromgardenweb

Meeting Builder What about out requirements?

worthy
11 years ago

A GWeb member e mailed this and said it was OK to post it here for general comments.

We are setting things up to meet with a builder and I wanted to ask your opinion on what I have compiled so far. I don't want to overwhelm them but I also know what I want as I have been looking at things for about 10 years and know how my family operates and what will work best--I just want to present it to them clearly. Will you give me your opinion? Any advice would be appreciated...this home would be in South Dakota as far as climate. Thanks in advance for any insight you are willing to offer.

House:

Covered Porch:
Vault made out of tongue and groove cedar--stained and sealed
Timbers made of douglas fir--stained and sealed
Double doors for Front doors 8' tall 36" wide open to a 6' span (only hardware on one door)no windows, one peephole, no sidelights, 1 window above the door

i. Deadbolt should be a grade 1 or 2, solid metal with no exposed screws on the exterior, throw bolt at least 1" long--medeco brand

ii. Also want an exit only deadbolt on front door

iii. Heavy-duty metal security strike plate secured by 4" screw that screws into stud not the door frame

iv. No hinges exposed

Entrance of home to pillar, 7'
Width from pillar to pillar 8'
Roof span 10' across with a 10/12 pitch
Colored Stamped cement for flooring
No stairs to get into house
Outlets on each side of doors
Entryway: 8' x 12' long
Coat closet with double doors and hanging bar with a shelf above the bar
Tile floor
Light fixture
Outlet on one side for entryway table
Master bedroom:17' wide, 19' long
Would like media cabinet built around fireplace (direct vent but vent out through the attic)
Ceiling fan with 100w bulbs
Carpeting
4 outlets on each side of bed (king sized bed) plus outlets around room
Hook-ups for tv/video
Built-in bookshelves with adjustable shelves, bottom shelves cabinet doors
Smoke and carbon monoxide detector--hard wired
Master bathroom: 8' wide x 20' long
Shower: 6 or 10" ceiling mount showerhead, slide bar, hand shower, body spray and body jets--shower bench at least 18" deep
36" tall vanities
Rectified porcelain tile with 1/16 grout lines for bottom of shower, 1/8 grout line porcelain tiles on shower walls with sanded grout
Heated floors on a timer
Caulk instead of grout in corners of bathroom and along edges of room instead of grout (especially b/w tub and tile)
Jacuzzi tub/air tub with glass enclosure--ozone system and in-line heater

i. Floor joists to accommodate, hot water heater to be able to handle

Toilet room with panasonic whisper quiet fan
3 Windows at very top of the room for privacy
Vanity with 2 sinks built into countertop (all 1 piece)
Linen closet with adjustable shelving
Solar tube or skylight
ADA toto toilet
Tile floor
Insulation added around tub
Hook-up for a tv that you can see in tub
Master Closet: 10 x 8 or 14 x 20
Island in middle with drawers, 112" long x 48" wide
Tie storage
All shoes will be in mudroom
Hanging bars are my main concern--have walls reinforced to handle load of bars
Solar tubes or skylight
carpet
Laundry: 15 x 14
Must be located with bedrooms
Island needs to have room for 6 laundry baskets and a flat work surface

i. 4' x 6'--2 banks of cabinets butted up against each other at 24" depth each

Built in cabinetry around perimeter

i. Storage for sewing machine, extra toilet paper, extra paper towels, gift wrap, light bulbs, batteries, tools, etc--adjustable shelves with cabinet fronts

Washer--built in above it for pull out drying rack
Dryer--built in above it for pull out drying rack
Sink (undermount)
Bar above sink to hang things
Exhaust fan-- panasonic whisper quiet fan
Solar tubes/skylight
If at all possible it would be nice to have the dryer against an outside wall so it is an easy vent to keep clean
Would like a drain in the floor leading to plumbing in case of a leak
Tile floor
Bedroom 1, 2, 3
Under the windows built in full extension drawers and on each side of the windows bookcases that go to the ceiling--adjustable shelves, 2 cabinet doors on the bottom of each unit
Walk-in closets for each bedroom (approximately 10x10) with drawers in the middle of the room in an island, hanging bars, all shoes in mudroom
Ceiling fans in each room that take regular 100w bulbs
Carpeting
Smoke/carbon monoxide detectors--hard wired
One jack and jill bath
Toto ADA toilets
Linen closet with adjustable shelves
Bath/shower combo with glass door
Tile floor
Tile from bath/shower combo to ceiling and at least one full tile on both sides of the shower/tub to the ceiling (so splashes don't get on wall)
panasonic whisper quiet fan
Caulk instead of grout in corners of bathroom and along edges of room instead of grout (especially b/w tub and tile)
one separate bath
Toto ADA toilet
linen closet with adjustable shelves
bath/shower combo with glass door
tile floor
Tile from bath/shower combo to ceiling and at least one full tile on both sides of the shower/tub to the ceiling (so splashes don't get on wall)
Panasonic whisper quiet fan
Caulk instead of grout in corners of bathroom and along edges of room instead of grout (especially b/w tub and tile)
Powder Room
vanity with sink, ADA toto toilet, light
tile floor
panasonic whisper quiet fan
Formal Dining: 15 x 15
Has to fit a 8' 1 3/4" x 4' wide table, 6 chairs but can seat up to 12--want 2 light fixtures spaced out above the table
Built in china cabinets on either side of entry door, cabinet doors on the bottom open shelving on the top with glass doors
Living Room: 20' wide x 28' long, 14' ceiling with 10/12 pitch
Manufactured stone fireplace over a direct vent unit, hearth is 18" AFF mantel 60" AFF, mantel to run entire length of the fireplace

i. Herringbone pattern in the brick in the firebox

9 stationary windows on the wall facing the yard
Vault with 3" alder boards, stained with fruitwood,-- half bronze walnut seal the stain with a clear coat. Sikens or Marine Spar finish
Media unit built around the fireplace
Carpeting
Electrical outlets in floor to be where end tables will be with lamps
ICAT lights
Extra support in walls for curtain to hang over the bottom 6 windows on the "window wall"
Kitchen:
Dura supreme cabinets rustic cherry in heavy patina A finish
Backsplash tile 1" x 6" Rustin Brown Mosaic Slate--Chinese Multi Color, GM.SL.MUL.0106 by Kate-Lo Tile and Stone
Countertops Zodiac Smokey topaz with 1/8" round over edge preface by Dupont Corian
Double wall ovens-pull out drawer for baking sheets next to oven
Cabinet for mixer with a pull up shelf in it
Pull out for 2 trash cans--plywood bottom on bottom and up sides so easy to get in and out--would like these close to garage
Sub-zero 36" side by side fridge/freezer--I want these to not stick out, be on the same length as countertops, ice maker and water built-in (copper plumbing)
Pull out for pots/pans next to the cooktop
Dishwasher to the right of the double sink

i. Bosch brand

Cooktop in the island
Cooking Utensil drawer next to cooktop
Full extension drawers/dovetailed
Outlets along work portion of island
Island: 4' wide, 12' long in a rectangle shape

i. 18" overhang for knee room

ii. 24" work section (smooth top cooktop)

iii. 26" wide upper section

iv. Pendant lighting above--either 3 or 5

v. Black finish

vi. Have 12" bank of shelves on the side of the island for seating with adjustable shelving

Appliance shelves with doors that recess in for the following:

i. Microwave

ii. Toaster

iii. Blender

iv. Waffle iron

v. Iced tea maker

vi. Food processor

vii. Coffee maker

viii. Crock pot

Wood floors
Walk-in Pantry: 10' deep x 6' wide or 9 x 9
Shelving units in white laminate to ceiling and 16" deep, adjustable shelving
Upper shelves 12" deep
Lower shelves 24" deep with glide out shelf so you can put baking dishes on them and not stack
Room for a stand-up freezer/electrical hook-up
Tile floors
Office Nook off of kitchen: 9' long x 9' high x 22" deep
Adjustable shelves in cabinetry
Work surface same as countertops in kitchen
Bank of outlets under desk area--at least 4 (printer, computer, etc.)
Wood floor same as kitchen
Pull out drawer for shredder with a plug in at the back of pull-out
Informal Dining/Sunroom:
15 x 15
Windows on each side
Sliding doors to covered deck--laminated glass doors (tempered glass)

i. Keyed lock at top and bottom/pin locks

ii. Exit only deadbolt installed

iii. Heavy-duty metal security strike plate secured by 4" screw that screws into stud not the door frame

Wood floors same as kitchen
Built-ins along the "desk" wall from the kitchen
Office: 15 x 15
Built-in shelving with adjustable shelves
Carpet
Outlet in middle of floor for desk in middle of room
Mudroom: directly off of garage door, 12 x 12
Shoe storage--shelves 40" wide, 9" apart (inside room)
Cubbies--each cubby is 21" center to center and 15" deep, seat is 15" off the floor and 48" b/w the seat and the first shelf, 12" between shelves, seat is 26" deep

i. Outlet in the back of each cubby

ii. Would like these accessible from the hallway but have recessed doors so can be shut/closed

Coat closet--bar with shelf above (inside room)
Shelving to accommodate bins of mittens, hats, etc
Tile floor
A "drop area" right inside the back door that has a place for my purse, phone, keys, bags, etc.

i. counter 2' deep, 3' wide, and 3' tall with storage below

Garage: 4 car, 2 double garage doors (insulated)--no windows
60" wide x 34" deep
Drain
Coating on floor
Side-load
Garage door to have deadbolt and exit-only deadbolt

i. Heavy-duty metal security strike plate secured by 4" screw that screws into stud not the door frame

ii. medeco brand

Covered deck:
20' wide x 24' long, 14' ceiling, 10/12 vault (basically extension of living area)
Skylights
ICAT lights
Pre-stress garage under main floor garage--garage door with no windows
Garage door opener
butler's pantry 5.5" wide, 6.4" long
lower cabinets 36" high, 18" space and then upper cabinets
on the opposite side of the cabinetry have a broom closet

i. room for vacuum, broom, dust buster (plug in needed), adjustable shelves at the top

wood floor same as kitchen
Basement--in floor heat in main living area on a timer
Walk-out

i. Double doors with deadbolt, Heavy-duty metal security strike plate secured by 4" screw that screws into stud not the door frame

ii. medeco brand

iii. exit only deadbolt

iv. tile around entry and with tile so bathroom can be reached while walking on the tile

a bedroom

i. carpet

ii. closet with double hang bars and a shelf at the top door entry

iii. ceiling fan with 100w bulbs

iv. smoke/carbon monoxide detector hard wired

a bathroom--preferably close to the door so you can walk in and not walk on carpet to get to it

i. tile floor

ii. bath/shower combo-glass enclosure

iii. vanity with built in sink

iv. linen closet with adjustable shelves--would like this closet to be large�perhaps a walk-in to accommodate towels for lake and if budget allows have a stackable washer/dryer in it--again dryer linked directly outside--room for ear plugs, goggles, etc--so some adjustable shelving

v. Caulk instead of grout in corners of bathroom and along edges of room instead of grout (especially b/w tub and tile)

vi. ADA toto toilet

vii. Tile from bath/shower combo to ceiling and at least one full tile on both sides of the shower/tub to the ceiling (so splashes don't get on wall)

viii. Panasonic whisper quiet fan

furnace room

i. all audio equipment and video equipment

ii. furnace--don't want the drain hose on the floor can it be put in the floor drain?

iii. hot water heater

iv. air purifier

v. water purifier

vi. electrical panel

vii. large area for storage

play area with built in adjustable shelving

i. carpet

lounge area with fireplace and built-in media cabinets

i. carpet

work-out room (empty bedroom)

i. still want closet in it so can count as bedroom

ii. fire and carbon monoxide detector (hard wired)

iii. tv plug-in

iv. fan with 100w lights

v. carpet

Underneath the covered deck on the lower level we would like an electrical hook-up for a hot tub in the future

i. Electrical Requirements: 240 volt (U.S./Canada)

ii. Electrical Req. amp/breaker: 50 amp (another one requires 60) GFCI (U.S./Canada)

iii. Does concrete need to be thicker in that area to support weight?

1. 76" x 84" x 35", 3,500 lbs.

2. 91" x 91" x 40", 4,000 lbs.

General:

all solid wood doors�3 paneled, matching hardware throughout house
all ICAT can lights with boxes built around them with spray foam over the boxes
hardwire for security and surround sound--cat6 and RG6 wires from wall outlets to central wiring panels with no splices, splitters or daisy chaining
Mohawk smart strand stain resistant carpet throughout house--same color
please mark electric outlets in all rooms on plans
all light switches in similar locations, none behind doors
maze brand galvanized nails
all exterior bolts/fasteners from timberlok
drywall screws from grabber
all other screws mcfeelys
finishing supplies from klingspor
flashing fortifibers moistop or tyveks flexwrap
astm rated building paper (asphalt impregnated felt) used for drainage plane on exterior walls
therma-stor ultra aire whole house ventilating dehumidifier
1" foam over external sheathing
icynene insulation
each light fixture have a dimmer--lutron switches, rocker style for entire house
whole house generator--Honda
whole house water filtration with a carbon filter
ERV or HRV to supply fresh air
in-floor radiant heat in basement main living area
mastic seal only no duct or foil tape to seal everything-- hardcast brand #1402
R values of 10-20-40-60
R10 below slab

i. 4" of XPS formular 250 foam under slab�taped and sealed, joists foamed/caulked

ii. 4-6" of clean compacted rock under slab

R20 basement walls
R40 main and upper walls
R60 roof
2 x 6 framed walls, 24" oc with rubber gasketing to the subflooring
air tight drywall for interior�installed with caulk or gaskets at heads and sill plates
no vapor barrier, plastic sheet or house wrap used
blown/dense packed fiberglass or cellulose insulation
air sealing/caulking
huber zip sheathing caulked to top and bottom plates
2" of XPS exterior foam (2 layers of 1" with the seams offset and overlapping)
�" vertical strapping drainage plane
certainteed form-a-drain for footer forms�vents radon
no flexible duct work anywhere�all solid materials taped with hardcast brand #1402 tape
tape over all ductwork connecting to floor/drywall, hardcast mastic tape from sheetrock into lip of supply box, pressed tightly to seal�reinforced at corners
sump pump with battery back-up
casement windows no double hung�I would like to price the blinds incased
triple pane windows
high SHGC glass on the south side of house
36" wide doors
shower/tub surround built with "mud" concrete applied to a wire frame instead of hardi-backer or cement board
tornado shelter built under front entry--no windows all cement
on all stone --dry stack no mortar
all drawers full extension, dovetailed
10' ceilings on main floor
9' ceilings on basement
8' ceilings in closet
all closets have lights on outside of door--price door jamb lighting
all outside doors to have screws at least 4" long into stude wall
hose bib on each side of the house and on the covered upper deck and the patio below
insulate all plumbing pipes
ceilings, closets and garages painted matte white
4 outlets on back covered deck, 2 on each side
outlet on each side of the house
outlets in the garage on each wall
overhead lights in the garage
outlets in the laundry room
ICAT lights lighting up the soffits on the house in front and on covered front porch and covered deck
no 90 or 180 turns in venting
would prefer vents not under windows/bed/furniture--can we mark them on the plans?
light boxes and vents in the ceiling foamed on the backside
doors and windows sealed with non-expanding foam
24" deep engineered floor trusses to hide all mechanical and plumbing, no bulkheads in basement
corbond insulation everywhere including DWV pipes
radon mitigation system
window hardware to match the reset of the hardware in the house and fold to be out of way of blinds
spray foam around fresh air intakes, exhausts, smoke detectors, light fixtures, exterior electrical, plumbing/hose bibs
seal cuts around bath fans and stove vent with mastic tape, use mastic to attach back draft damper to housing of bath fans and to attach the vent to the damper
walls prayed with primer then extra coats brushed on
under mount all sinks
garage entry key codes on outside
garage door opener for each door
no garage entry door

Comments (11)

  • worthy
    Original Author
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'd rather work with somebody who knows what they want (and can afford it!) than someone who is endlessly "Umminng and Ahing".

    That said, your next step is to an architect or design professional who can draw up actual building plans and specify down to what brand of nails you want! (I've never even done that.)

    You should be aware though that some of your specs are very costly--such as closed-cell spray foam for all insulation. Your insulation levels and sealing details are over Code too. Which puts them in line with Dr. Joe Lstiburek's recommendations. Just how over Code depends on where in S. Dakota you area. There are 13 southern counties that are actually considered to be in Zone 4 & 5 Marine according to this IECC climate zone map. Most other Zone maps put all the state in the cold zone.

  • User
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Yes, it's nice to know the details. What's missing is the big picture. The big picture is what the architect (THEN builder) helps you to see. THEN you fill in those details. The forest for the trees syndrome magnified a thousand here. A home plan isn't composed of all of those details. It's composed of a buildable plan that works for your needs. The needs behind the details. Such as energy efficiency and connection with the exterior from the interior.

    It's like picking out the rims and tires before you even pick out the car. A lot of what you want may not work with the design that you ultimately create. Or your budget. Unless you have a very high budget for your build. I have to think that your list puts you at the top 10% of costs for your location.

  • virgilcarter
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    It appears that you may have spent the last 10 years compiling details, data, equipment and finish lists without having a concept and ensuing design for a house.

    Sorry to say, it is pointless to take this list to a builder. It's like taking the ingredients for a receipe to a baker and asking for a large cake.

    You should start by selecting an experienced and successful architect to work with you on the concept for and design of your house, based on your needs and wants (here's where you should be spending your time; identifying critical needs from desirable wants), site conditions, budget, regulatory requirements, etc.

    Once the design concept is approved, the design development phase takes place to transition from schematic designs to detailed construction drawings and specifications. When the construction documents are complete, bidding occurs, followed by construction. You would be well advised to retain your architect to be your representative and your interests through construction until occupancy.

    Time to get the horse and cart in the proper order. Good luck with your project.

  • zone4newby
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Does this list go along with plans drawn up by an architect?

  • User
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I want small pieces of high content rag paper in a certain khaki green shade. They should be approximately 3"x6" and have numbers on the front and back. A portrait of an American president or leader should adorn the front side.

    That description has zero to do with the labor needed to be done in exchange for receiving those bits of paper. Or the actual process of creating the paper, or the plates, or the printing process that goes into making those pieces of paper.

    And that's what your list is. It's useful as a abstract, but in reality, it leaves out all of the important parts.

  • chispa
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I also think a list like this could be organized into a much better list ... it all seems to be jumbled up together.

  • brickeyee
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    "no vapor barrier, plastic sheet or house wrap used "

    That may well depend on location and code.

    You need an actual floor plan, not just a list of things you want.

    "100w bulbs "

    No longer made.

    "All shoes will be in mudroom "

    What does this have to do with building?

    If you take a list like this to a builder, be prepared to hemorrhage money.

  • User
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    IMO it would be unwise to bring up so many details in the first meeting with a builder. I suspect the builder might not return your subsequent phone calls.

    There is a process to any endeavor and trying to operate counter to that process is simply a headache to all concerned.

    A first meeting should be about the builder not about locks and vapor barriers.

    I suspect you would benefit greatly from using an architect to put the process into a logical order. You should choose the locks in the later phases of design. An architect might be able to give you some perspective on security too. What's the purpose of buying the most secure deadbolt lock if someone can break the sidelight glass and operate the thumb turn in a few seconds?

  • wishiwasinoz
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Our GC had a wonderful exercise for us. His assignment even before we met was to have DH & me write out our top 20 items/ideas for the house (in order of importance). We did this seperarately w/o knowing each other's top 20. We then brought this list to GC on our first meeting.

    This enabled him to get the big picture. We also took these lists to the architect. Along with this list, was a photo of what we desired & a layout we thought we liked.

    As the process has developed, all of our smaller, nitpicky items have come out. GC has appreciated the thought process that I've put into it all. He said it has made everything move smoothly. In the end, I will have less daily choices to make. Although I did SO much research prior to all of our meetings, I have welcomed GC's ideas & knowledge, as well. Afterall, we are hiring him for his skills, knowledge, & expertise. He has been doing this 30+ years & I have only just recently begun this process.

    I definitely would not go into this seeming like a total know-it-all or you will make GC's life quite unpleasant. Also, in all honesty, about 90% of our desires for our home, GC had already planned for, so I would really be looking for the best GC you can find.

  • wishiwasinoz
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Also, our builder gave us a large specs document to start out with (18 pages, I think). If things weren't as I wanted, I just put in my changes & highlighted them in yellow. I also added photos to the document (i.e. custom vanity to look exactly like this, front door to look like that, this look for the fireplace, etc.). Then he could look it all over, & we would discuss things live. This was extremely helpful for both of us.

  • energy_rater_la
    11 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    what a list!

    I question this:1" foam over external sheathing
    and icynene insulation. guessing this is for walls,
    but I'd chose foam sheathing on exterior walls
    rather than spray foam in stud bays.
    what insulation for attic?? or is one for attic
    and the other for walls. it isn't very clear.

    I do notice the hardcast 1402 mastic tape,
    glad to see it specified.

    but for all it contains, there is an equal amount
    left out. what insulation for attic?
    what type windows?
    hvac system...location...spec's for load
    calc, duct design...

    seems to be a list of things jumbled together.
    perhaps putting them is some sort of order..
    would make more sense.

    a good example is that the builtins around
    the fireplace are before the spec's of the
    fireplace itself.

    even breaking it down to lists for builder,
    electrician, plumber, finish carpenter would
    make more sense.

    what does homeowner want you to do...orgainze the
    list?
    apparently a LOT of time has been spent gathering
    info, now to decide who gets what info?

    also...if using recessed lights...Insulation Contact
    Air Tight only. specify ICAT, not IC.

    best of luck