You can get an architect to do a plan from scratch for $2500? Where do you live? My architect was much more expensive than that.

Mine was quite a bit more than that, more than double.

You may need an engineer to stamp off plans if the house has a steel beam.

This divider beams in the middle of the basement are not covered by the building code, so the structure must be analyzed, the loads on the beam determined, the beam then sized, and a drawing created and stamped (usually by a professional engineer (PE) registered in the state) for the AHJ to inspect against.

The AHJ does NOT know how big the beam should be.

If any trusses will be used they also require a drawing and a stamp.
Most truss makers will stamp off 'standard' or 'stock' items they make for free.

If any custom work is needed they often want to be paid for the design and the stamp (since liability attaches with the stamp).

This post was edited by brickeyee on Fri, Jan 25, 13 at 14:43

Central basement girders can be designed without and engineer using the Girder and Header table in the building code. Normally structural steel members and any form of "engineered" lumber like Laminated Veneer Lumber, Laminated Lumber, Parallel Strand Lumber, or trusses must be designed by a an engineer although the companies that make the wood materials usually offer engineering services for free through a local lumberyard. Some jurisdiction do not require engineering design only evidence of proper sizing from published tables.

The cost of architectural services depends on the amount and type of services, the project location, and the skill/experience of the architect so it is impossible to compare costs without more detailed information. You will hear prices from $1,000 to $30,000 but without the information needed to allow you to make useful comparisons.

All I can say about a fee of $2,500 is that the person is probably not registered, has little experience, has a poor reputation, is in financial trouble, or intends to provide minimal architectural services.

I recently designed a 12 x 12 screened porch for $2,400 and I designed a small house for my sister-in-law for $3,000 in 1977.

Some members on the GardenWeb spend years designing their house yet they imagine an architect could design it and provide contract documents in a week.

There's another important issue to consider for folks who buy stock plans for several thousand dollars and then expect a local architect to "tweak" these plans and sign them so that a building permit can be issued. Of course, not every jurisdiction requires house plans to be stamped by an architect, but many, many do for the obvious reasons of direct responsibility for experienced design, health and safety, not to mention code and regulation compliance.

The important issue is this: most state architecture and engineering regulations make it mandatory that all drawings and specifications stamped by an architect be "prepared by that architect or directly under the supervision of that architect". Failure to do so is punishable under the state regulation and, depending on the state, may include a fine, loss of license and/or jail time.

Thus, no one should expect a licensed architect to take plans from a house plan factory, stamp them for $1,000 and go to lunch!

Such plans will have to be completely redrawn, all local site and regulatory requirements will have to be met. In far too many cases, examination of the stock plans by an experience architect will reveal numerous deficiencies, omissions and errors. For example, stairs are often calculated incorrectly, there may not be any space allocated for HVAC, water heater, main electrical panel,etc. It may not be possible of feasible for HVAC duct distribution if the system is forced air. Passive energy strategies and "tight" energy conserving construction and proper insulation may not have even be considered. The square footage of windows may be an issue in many states. The list goes on and on.

In addition, just about every owner wants "a few changes" made (it's always much more than a few, as it turns out, as owners become more and more fammiliar with the design and as they constantly change their own priorities for needs and wants). Often more changes are needed once the initial bids come back over the owner's expectations.

And then there's the saga of allowances and change orders that are often part of the bidding phase and the construction phase, resulting in substantial cost increases to the owners. This forum is full of threads on these topics.

This is why, in many cases, owners get far more beneficial house designs, custom designed to their needs and wants, but simply commissioning an architect at the outset, rather than playing with their own CAD software and/or downloading a "stock" plan from an Internet house plan factory.

To each their own, of course. It's just that this situation--owners wanting to save money at the outset of their project (when the major decisions are always made)-- comes up so often on this forum that these questions and answers should be a "sticky" for all to read who are not sure about the options for designing, bidding and building their house.

Good luck on your project!

"Central basement girders can be designed without and engineer using the Girder and Header table in the building code."

Only if you want an oversize steel beam in your basement.
I guess I never noticed actual steel beam dimensions in there.

There is no structural steel in the building code and all of the girders and headers in the sizing tables are built-up dimensioned lumber. The largest member is four 2x12's. An engineer would have no use for these tables; they are there for everyone else.

Are you sure it if not a drafter? Your fees seem more in line with that profession.

My drawings were close to 3K (due to revisions) and engineering was $850.

I hired a designer, 4.25/sq ft, plus structural engineering at $1.00/sq ft, plus civil engineering $3500 and a soil engineer at $ 4700.

During the downturn in architectural work since 2008, I have looked for sources of work other than homeowners. I quickly learned why architects don't often work for contractors. Not only is the pay meager but the increased liability is frightening since an architect is rarely paid to oversee the work.

When I have done this I have had to inspect the work after hours or pretend I was an inspector and in every case I have found serious deficiencies most often in the structural connections. Fortunately, I was able to get the deficiencies corrected without confronting the builders. A 40 year old hardhat and clipboard are my weapons of choice; if you look like an OSHA inspector you are invisible.

Once I had to finish nailing the shear walls myself. Another time I had to install additional Timberloc lag screws in built-up LVL beams. One of the most frustrating problems is that builders don't take the spacing of fasteners seriously. When the structural drawings call for fasteners at 24" on center top, and bottom, staggered that means no fastener can be more than 24" from the one next to it measured horizontally. I typically find carpenters believe it means 48" between the fasteners in a row. This happens even when I show the fasteners in the drawing.

I recently told a homeowner that I would not do his project unless I was named in an AIA Agreement and had the power to force a contractor to correct deficient work (like I would on a commercial project). In the contract I required that I be notified a day before any concrete or structural steel work was put in place. The contractor installed double 12" channels either side of an existing beam and thru-bolted them then covered the bolts up with nailers. I asked him what the bolt spacing was and he actually told me he had put them 48" apart instead of the required 24".

This may be my last project.

I paid $2800 for my architect to make minor changes to a plan he already had. The break down was $850 for the base plan then $85 an hour for the changes and review.

$2900 seems about right for the engineering work. I was in that ballpark.
Heres the breakdown:
$1200 for the land survey
$150 for the setback measurements of adjacent houses (required by town)
$700 for a site plan
$400 to stake the ground for digging

Depending on the town's requirements you may need a grading plan, soils erosion testing, utility plan...it adds up quick.

Overall I'm in for close to $15,000 and we haven't lifted a shovel yet.